Preparing a 400 ci bloc
Well the Rodeck aluminum engine block i have has no steam holes.
What do you guys suggest i do......pull an iron block out of a caprice and use that?
Obviously your aftermarket block is a different story. If the block does have steam holes, and you don't drill them in the heads, you're asking for trouble.
You're saying my block is no good.?
Let's follow the logic through here. Good practice for your bar exam.
What he's saying is that after market block of yours was designed without steam holes so you don't need them in either the block or the heads. However, if your block was NOT after market and had steam holes then it's dangerous to install heads without steam holes.
There are just too many people with cracked blocks and heads because this little precaution is missed or avoided because they don't think it's necessary.
There are just too many people with cracked blocks and heads because this little precaution is missed or avoided because they don't think it's necessary.
Steam holes are unnecessary.
I think i'm gonna stand firm on that and let you guys prove me wrong. Real proof, not just do it because that's how it came from the factory.
Can someone come up with a scientific argument?
Can someone come up with experience that proves the holes are necessary.?
I get sick of hearing the same old **** being propagated over and over and over when nobody really understands it.
Last edited by turtlevette; Oct 7, 2007 at 01:43 PM.
http://www.gregsengine.com/350to400.htm
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...que/index.html
(Fifth paragraph down.)
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...5105436AAbqQRq
Just a few. You seem to be the only one who refuses to believe. I don't even understand you fighting on this one. What do you gain by telling people not to drill steam holes when it may inevitably lead to a cracked head. Maybe because it's not your motor and if they have to replace a cylinder head it's no skin off of your back?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
http://www.gregsengine.com/350to400.htm
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...que/index.html
(Fifth paragraph down.)
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...5105436AAbqQRq
Just a few. You seem to be the only one who refuses to believe. I don't even understand you fighting on this one. What do you gain by telling people not to drill steam holes when it may inevitably lead to a cracked head. Maybe because it's not your motor and if they have to replace a cylinder head it's no skin off of your back?
Its like drilling a brake rotor.
http://www.airflowresearch.com/sbc_faq.php#400blocks
Steam holes are recommended for all 400 block applications (GM blocks only). Use a 400 Gasket as a template and drill the three holes, nearest the spark plug side of the head, straight down. The other three which are very near the head bolt holes should be drilled at a 30° angle away from the bolt hole. The center hole will intersect water about 1" down and the two outboard holes to a depth of 2 1/4". Use 1/8 drill.
GM casting 817 block is 2 bolt main. Very good solid block.
GM casting 509 block is two bolt main high nickel content. The numbers010 and 020 are cast into the face. "The best GM 400 block!"
GM casting 511 block is 4-bolt (majority). Not as strong as the 2 bolt cause that fourth bolt weakens the webbing between cylinders....but 500HP is safely obtainable.
Pick a cam bigger than you think, cause most cam co's stats are for a 350. (unless stated for 400ci) 350 RPM ranges will actually be lower when it's used in a 400. Roller cams are great if you can afford one. My Crower is as quiet as a church mouse.
I agree with 200-210 heads on a 400. Mine run great!!! (AFR 195 Eliminators are the exception)
Flat top pistons in the 10.0 to 10.5 compression range for a mild sub 240 durration cam. No detonation worries...
Stock 400 rotating assemblies are externally ballanced. If your purchasing a new one...go internally ballanced throughout. Pistons, rods, crank, ballancer, & flywheel must be ballanced together for optimum results. 500HP is obtainable without a forged crank, (should be a good one though) but if you plan to beat on that engine regularly at the strip...go forged crank. Forged pistons & rods are the norm for a 500 HP build. Better safe than sorry. I would not use hyperutectic pistons on a high horse motor. On a cruiser...yes...but not a strip motor.
Well...the choices are yours.
Good Luck
Eddie
Last edited by Edzred72; Oct 7, 2007 at 07:25 PM.









, good point, that never gets mentioned.






