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Preparing a 400 ci bloc

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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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Default Preparing a 400 ci bloc

I would like to change my 350CI in my 1979 french corvette with a 400CI engine.
I would like to know if there is someone who has ever changed the engine with a 400?

I would like also to upgrade this engine. What sort of changements can i do :
Specific Pistons in order to lower the compression ratio?
Cylinder heads AFR 195?
750 cfm Carb?
What sort of cam?
performer rpm airgap?

What esle?
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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I haven't done a 400 but I can tell you just to make sure you have the steam holes in the heads and head gaskets if you use aftermarket heads. Most will require you to drill your own steam holes in the head.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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i've read in a few places those steam holes are BS.. You don't need to drill the heads with the newer high flow water pumps.

just reporting what i've read.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
i've read in a few places those steam holes are BS.. You don't need to drill the heads with the newer high flow water pumps.

just reporting what i've read.
You try it. I'm not gonna blow up a set of heads for an experiment.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 11:01 PM
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Default 400 SB Build

Make sure you use the right balancer and flexplate/flywheel since it's an externally balanced engine. Ditch the 5.56 rods for 5.7" rods. Check clearance between rod shoulder and camshaft. If using a 2-bolt block, install high-strength fastners; because the 2-bolt caps tend to walk under higher RPM conditions (or install 4-bolt caps on #'2, 3 & 4). Somebody already mentioned steam holes - but be sure the gaskets have them also. Oh, make sure and have the rotating assembly balanced.

Gotta know more on your intended use - street, Nitrous, forced induction? Expected hp/performance/rpm range, etc. for parts recommendations.

-Lurkin

Last edited by Ben Lurkin; Sep 28, 2007 at 11:09 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 12:05 AM
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If the engineers at GM thought steam holes were needed for Grandma's Caprice, you can bet they're needed once you start adding HP. Otherwise coolant converts to steam in the hot-spots between cylinders and detonation becomes a problem.

Good advice on the rods above.. Also, if you don't have a 400 crank, flywheel and harmonic which are all externally balanced, Scat makes an internally balanced 400 crank which is preferable. But if you find a good shortblock, use C, F, & H from it and save some cabbage (chunk the rods and pistons as stated above).

I don't think you can get heads that are too big for a 406. I'd forget the 195's and go to something in the 215cc range. Also, I'd go with 1-3/4" headers,..not the smaller 1-5/8".

Also, good 400 blocks are getting tough to find,..they can only be bored once and then it's time for sleeves. So be careful when searching out a block. It's said that the 2-bolt blocks are stronger but just worry about getting good std bore crack-free block.

The cam choice would depend on your goals, tranny, and gears out back.

Great choice, the 406. I run one in a 3000 lbs 69 Camaro and it's a blast!

Good luck!

Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Sep 30, 2007 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 04:19 AM
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It's OK for the steam holes, i will have a look seriously before buying it.
I 've read also the fact that it is very important to have Rods, pistons, crank, flywheel, clutch balanced together.

I would like to use this engine for car races, runs.... and street.

The standard 400ci delivers low HP : 180 hp.
Is it easy to develop the HP by cams, heads, headers, carb....

What do you recommend me for this use?
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 01:38 PM
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Read my sig
Can i have the details of your modification because i see only the results (HP and torque) but i don't know how you can do.
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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I hesitate between 2 kits so as to rebuild my 400 engine. I don't want to ad nitrous nor compressor. I just want to have fun with Hp :

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...207&CtgID=9005

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...00&CtgID=20652

Can you tell me please what you would choose?
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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Bigger is better. If you go the 434 get a 2 bolt block and have splayed caps installed. You will need BIG heads to feed it as well as a BIG intake manifold. The heads you want probably will not work with sidepipes. The BIG heads need valvetrain that costs BIG money. Get an internally balanced rotating assembly if you can. Regardless, run as long a rod as you can. Stay with a 2 bolt block and stud it if you wont put the splayed caps on.
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 07:37 PM
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I built my 434 way back in '99, internally balanced.
All the details here;
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/427v8/engine.html

If I were to do it agin, I would build a 406, a lot easier, a lot cheaper, just as powerfull.

Keith
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 06:56 AM
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According to you, it would be better to use these spare parts :
- New Scat 9000 Series Cast Crankshaft ,
- Scat 4340 Forged I-Beam rods with ARP 3/8" Cap Screw Bolts,
- Forged Probe or Keith Black Dish Pistons,
- Piston ring upgrade will be Total Seal Classic Race Plasma Ring Set,
- Bearing upgrade will be Clevite 77 H Series Rod and Main Bearings,
- Internal Balaced Kits,

It called : SB Chevy 407 Scat Rotating Assembly Kit, 3.750 Stroke 6.000 Rods 10.3:1 Forged Dish Pistons.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 10:32 AM
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Have you got a 400 block? Has it been thoroughly checked and measured by a pro experienced w/ sbc? Must do that before any parts order.

first read this 406 buildup (impersonator I)
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techar.../148_0306_406/

then read the followup (impersonator II)
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...imp/index.html

Last edited by jackson; Oct 6, 2007 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 10:43 AM
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Just a minor detail on the 400: Most 400 blocks do not have the holes drilled in the front driver's side of the block for the power steering pump bracket. You have to place the bracket on the block, transfer punch the hole locations, and drill & tap the block for the bracket. Many blocks also do not have the hole drilled and tapped for the clutch Z-Bar attach point if your Vette is a 4-speed.

Other than that, the advise given above is good: Go with the long rods, good heads, and a lot of cam. You'll make plenty of power with a 406.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by nicoduc
According to you, it would be better to use these spare parts :
- New Scat 9000 Series Cast Crankshaft ,
- Scat 4340 Forged I-Beam rods with ARP 3/8" Cap Screw Bolts,
- Forged Probe or Keith Black Dish Pistons,
- Piston ring upgrade will be Total Seal Classic Race Plasma Ring Set,
- Bearing upgrade will be Clevite 77 H Series Rod and Main Bearings,
- Internal Balaced Kits,

It called : SB Chevy 407 Scat Rotating Assembly Kit, 3.750 Stroke 6.000 Rods 10.3:1 Forged Dish Pistons.
That kit will work fine, don't put anything smaller that 210cc heads on a 406ci unless they are the new AFR 195 Eliminators they flow enough for a big inch small block
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
You try it. I'm not gonna blow up a set of heads for an experiment.
You're more likely to hose them up drilling them.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
You're more likely to hose them up drilling them.
Go for it...I'm sure we all would like a detailed tech report on how long cylinder heads with no steam holes last on a 400SBC.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
You're more likely to hose them up drilling them.

Hose them how? The material you're drilling through is not that thick and it's an open cavity under the hole. Mark the spot with a punch, drill a small pilot hole and then follow with a 1/8" bit. It went super easy when I drilled my two heads for my 400. I just don't see how drilling the hole would harm them.

Last edited by Durango_Boy; Oct 6, 2007 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Not drilling the steam holes is a bad idea. Drilling them isn't that hard.
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