headlight actuator repair
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
headlight actuator repair
i'm repairing the headlights on my 70. is there a flat spot on the actuator rod that allows it to be unscrewed from the clevis? i've pushed the boot up some, but didn't see an area to put a wrench on it. also, is it advisable to replace the seal and dust boot? they both hold air, and resist movement when i plug the air tube, but after 37 years, who knows?
jeff
jeff
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
There isn't anywhere specifically to get a wrench on. Be carful with it. The end does unscrew. Apply some liquid wrench to free it up. You don't want the thing turning in the housing. I wrapped a cloth around the rod...used visegrips...and unsrewed the end.
You need to replace both the seal and dust boot.
The dust boot does not hold air. If its acting like it does its because your seal is gone and air is getting into that area.
Jim
You need to replace both the seal and dust boot.
The dust boot does not hold air. If its acting like it does its because your seal is gone and air is getting into that area.
Jim
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I agree with all of the above but instead of a rag under the visegrips I use a thin piece of aluminum to wrap the threads with.Position the clevis in the up position and the can hanging down and then add heat to the clevis with a propane torch.This will prevent breaking the shaft if its stuck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,247
Likes: 471
From: Glen Allen, VA
I just pulled the pins and took the actuator our clevis and all, it wasnt' hard at all. I wrapped some tape around the threads to mark the position because yes, the clevis has to come off, but to me it was easier to do it on the bench. Just did this a little more than a month ago to do a seal replacement and now the headlights pop up just like they're supposed to.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 6
From: NC USA
Remove it from the car. Spray PB Blaster on the shaft the night before to loosen it up. As said above, you don't want to rotate the shaft or you've ruined the seal inside it and would have to buy a new actuator . I ran a dye on the threaded shaft to clean the threads so once you break the nut free, it will come right off. Put visegrips on the shaft or clamp it in a vise and then put a wrench on the nut and rock it back and forth to get it moving. It should come off with some work. Once it's off, use the dye to clean the rest of the threads of corrosion. Use anti-sieze on the threads when you reassemble so the next time (if there is one) it will come apart with no hassle. The number of turns on mine was 14 which was what others on here have found also. Good luck with it!
Last edited by Marks69BB; Oct 3, 2007 at 11:26 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,369
Likes: 103
From: Centerville Louisiana
i'm repairing the headlights on my 70. is there a flat spot on the actuator rod that allows it to be unscrewed from the clevis? i've pushed the boot up some, but didn't see an area to put a wrench on it. also, is it advisable to replace the seal and dust boot? they both hold air, and resist movement when i plug the air tube, but after 37 years, who knows?
jeff
jeff
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Jim
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
Could be, but there's also a rubber bumper on the adjustable stop bolt that might be missing and allowing the headlight to bounce just a little. There's a bracket on the side of the headlight that limits the travel when it hits a brace. My lights come up so fast now after rebuilding them the adjusting bolt hits and makes a heck of a bang. I see where Doc Rebuild sells them.......$38 a pair! Ouch!!
By the way...........my electric windows still work like a champ after your help rebuilding them
Bill
