Rear mail seal leaking
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Quincy MA
Rear mail seal leaking
My rear main seal is leaking. Do most people on here with original drivetrain '74's have leaks coming from there? I'm going to drive it 3 - 5K per year. I do not want to sink big $$$$ into it. Thoughts? What does it usually run to have the motor pulled and rear main seal completed?
Kevin
Kevin
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,706
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
I just went through this on my SB 400. Mine was a little more urgent because the seal was missing (long and painful story). The seal isn't all that hard to replace in the car but it does take some time and effort.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
As above, if you can't deal with the drip, the steps are easy.
Drain oil and remove oil filter.
Drop the idler arm and lower the suspension enough to get the oil pan out.
Remove transmission dust shield.
Unbolt and remove the oil pan.
Unbolt the rear main cap. Make sure bearing comes off of crank in the main cap, and reposition in cap if needed.
Carefully, using a punch or screw driver, push the block side main seal out from around the crank. Do NOT score the journal with the screw driver. Make note of it's orientation.
Install a new half, well oiled, the same way it came out and push or tap it up into place with a wooden handle or something similar.
Clean the main cap and remove the cap half of the main seal. Again, note orientation.
Install new half into cap.
Install cap onto block and torque bolts to factory spec for your year or engine type.
Reinstall oil pan. Reinstall dust shield. Push suspension back up and bolt idler arm to frame using original hardware.
Install new oil filter, and fill with oil.
Clean everything, and start her up.
Note: If there is a groove cut into the crank where the original rear main seal contacted it you will need a specific rear main seal with a different lip to fill that ring.
Drain oil and remove oil filter.
Drop the idler arm and lower the suspension enough to get the oil pan out.
Remove transmission dust shield.
Unbolt and remove the oil pan.
Unbolt the rear main cap. Make sure bearing comes off of crank in the main cap, and reposition in cap if needed.
Carefully, using a punch or screw driver, push the block side main seal out from around the crank. Do NOT score the journal with the screw driver. Make note of it's orientation.
Install a new half, well oiled, the same way it came out and push or tap it up into place with a wooden handle or something similar.
Clean the main cap and remove the cap half of the main seal. Again, note orientation.
Install new half into cap.
Install cap onto block and torque bolts to factory spec for your year or engine type.
Reinstall oil pan. Reinstall dust shield. Push suspension back up and bolt idler arm to frame using original hardware.
Install new oil filter, and fill with oil.
Clean everything, and start her up.
Note: If there is a groove cut into the crank where the original rear main seal contacted it you will need a specific rear main seal with a different lip to fill that ring.
