dizy in wrong?
keep your face out of there until you get it to quit backfiring.
re-check your timing. you are most likely 180* out...
fwiw, when i say 180 out, i mean your probably on the end of the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke.
Last edited by Avette4me; Oct 7, 2007 at 01:50 PM.
cheers
dave
cheers
dave
A 5/8" wrench (line wrench is best) and a 1" wrench to hold the larger nut on the inside.
manage to tighten them up a little more, which solved my leak, hopefull!
now try get the pig to start!!
cheers
dave
dave
dave
Just look down at the timing tab and when the mark lines up with "0" your there.1/4 to 1/2 turn
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so would it not be better, say when you feel your finger being sucked, then all you need to is turn the engine back to TDC, anticlockwise?, so there's no mistaking it.
also when you try turn engine over clockwise using it bottom pulley nut, the nut loosens!!
the engine rotates clockwise?
and the dizzy rotates anticlockwise?
iam I right or have I gone wrong somewhere in my thinking?
cheers
dave
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Oct 8, 2007 at 03:45 PM.
Almost foolproof method:
Get an old sparkplug that fits the engine.
Knock the guts out of it with a punch and hammer.
Stretch a balloon over the sparkplug leaving the threads exposed.
Hand tighten the balloon/sparkplug into the #1 hole.
Disconnect power to distributor or make sure ignition is off.
Slowly turn over engine in clockwise direction with a socket and ratchet on the harmonic balancer center bolt.
Balloon will fill with air when approaching #1 firing position.
Continue to turn engine until the mark on balancer reaches the 10° BTDC mark.
This is close to the initial timed firing position.
Install dist with the rotor pointing approximatedly at the #2 terminal on the cap and the distributor housing orientated as in the previous pic I posted.
Push down slowly and you will feel the gears mesh and the rotor will move toward the #1 position.
If it is going to go past #1, then slowly pull up on the distributer until you feel the gears "unmesh". then turn the rotor more towards the #2 direction with slight pressure down until you feel you have moved over 1 more tooth.
Then push down as far as it will go again to see if it is close to lining up with #1 terminal.
If the distributer housing base where you clamp it tight has a gap between it and the intake manifold, then the oil shaft has not lined up.
If this is the case, then the rotor should be between the #1 and #2 terminals on the cap.
Then just push down lightly on the distributer housing (watch out for spinning rotor) while someone cranks the starter over, and it will drop in place and the timing will be correct to fire up.
It may sound a little confusing, but try it and it's pretty simple and is is the easiest way I have found.
To check it, do the balloon thing again with the distributor now being fully seated on the intake. Turn the distributer housing until the rotor leading edge meets the #1 cap terminal. If ther housing is oriented properly as in the first pic then you will have ample room to turn the distributer for timing. Now clamp the distributor tight and use you timing lite to time engine.
I suspect when it was popping before your were just a tooth off because of the oil shaft interference.
Last edited by noonie; Oct 8, 2007 at 07:01 PM.
Is it just that its cold or is the timing out by a lot?, if I move the dizzy left and right, then it wont start, or harder to start
any ideas chaps??
dave
Is it just that its cold or is the timing out by a lot?, if I move the dizzy left and right, then it wont start, or harder to start
any ideas chaps??
dave
got a vac gauge on it, still slows a low reading 11/12 hg, which was the same as before, defo no vac leaks, maybe worn valves causing low vac or different cam??
Still need to tune carb, which I will do soon
cheers
dave
its the vac thing I'm trying to solve now!!
cheers
dave
Last edited by agent kronus; Oct 9, 2007 at 05:55 PM.
Also with all that backfiring you could have done damage to the carb-throttle plates and or gaskets













