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dizy in wrong?

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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 01:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by agent kronus
I need to get someone to crank, while I watch to see where its coming from,

keep your face out of there until you get it to quit backfiring.


re-check your timing. you are most likely 180* out...

fwiw, when i say 180 out, i mean your probably on the end of the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke.

Last edited by Avette4me; Oct 7, 2007 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Avette4me
keep your face out of there until you get it to quit backfiring.


re-check your timing. you are most likely 180* out...

fwiw, when i say 180 out, i mean your probably on the end of the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke.
thanks

dave
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:19 AM
  #23  
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Ive found where the fuel leak is, its coming out of the 1st inlet, where the metal pipes goes into carb, its a brand new holley and a new dual metal fuel pipe, cant seem to see any issues with it, but the fuel come's out quite quickly when you turn engine over, what could be the problem?

cheers

dave
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:54 AM
  #24  
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either the parts are bad or your mechanic is poorly trained
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by agent kronus
Ive found where the fuel leak is, its coming out of the 1st inlet, where the metal pipes goes into carb, its a brand new holley and a new dual metal fuel pipe, cant seem to see any issues with it, but the fuel come's out quite quickly when you turn engine over, what could be the problem?

cheers

dave
Sometimes you really have to crank the smaller nut on tight... very, very tight.
A 5/8" wrench (line wrench is best) and a 1" wrench to hold the larger nut on the inside.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Sometimes you really have to crank the smaller nut on tight... very, very tight.
A 5/8" wrench (line wrench is best) and a 1" wrench to hold the larger nut on the inside.

manage to tighten them up a little more, which solved my leak, hopefull!

now try get the pig to start!!

cheers

dave
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 01:29 PM
  #27  
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Iam having probs with finding TDC, following what peeps say, put your finger over cylinder 1 spark plug hole, bump car over, then stop when you feel your finger getting pushed away, so how much more turning do you need to do to find TDC, and the white mark on the balancer?

dave
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 01:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by agent kronus
Iam having probs with finding TDC, following what peeps say, put your finger over cylinder 1 spark plug hole, bump car over, then stop when you feel your finger getting pushed away, so how much more turning do you need to do to find TDC, and the white mark on the balancer?

dave
After what you just said above:
Just look down at the timing tab and when the mark lines up with "0" your there.1/4 to 1/2 turn
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 02:37 PM
  #29  
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so if you didn't stop the engine turning quick enough, after you feel your finger pushed away, then you could end up not at TDC, but imbetween

so would it not be better, say when you feel your finger being sucked, then all you need to is turn the engine back to TDC, anticlockwise?, so there's no mistaking it.

also when you try turn engine over clockwise using it bottom pulley nut, the nut loosens!!

the engine rotates clockwise?

and the dizzy rotates anticlockwise?

iam I right or have I gone wrong somewhere in my thinking?

cheers

dave
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 03:36 PM
  #30  
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Crankshaft and rotor rotate clockwise. Some use a rag in the #1 plug hole. I use my finger. When you feel that puff of air against your finger, the engine is at the compression stroke. This is where you want to be. Once you are at this point, the groove on the balancer and the 0 on the timing tab should be lined up or very close, if they are not lined up rotate crankshaft slightly clockwise until they line up. The distributor should drop in place. Hope this helps, and no nothing is wrong with your thinking.

Last edited by Oldguard 7; Oct 8, 2007 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 04:41 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by agent kronus
so would it not be better, say when you feel your finger being sucked, then all you need to is turn the engine back to TDC, anticlockwise?
No...
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 06:50 PM
  #32  
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Looking at the front of the engine from the front of the car the balancer turns clockwise. The distributer turns clockwise looking down at it.

Almost foolproof method:
Get an old sparkplug that fits the engine.
Knock the guts out of it with a punch and hammer.
Stretch a balloon over the sparkplug leaving the threads exposed.
Hand tighten the balloon/sparkplug into the #1 hole.
Disconnect power to distributor or make sure ignition is off.
Slowly turn over engine in clockwise direction with a socket and ratchet on the harmonic balancer center bolt.
Balloon will fill with air when approaching #1 firing position.
Continue to turn engine until the mark on balancer reaches the 10° BTDC mark.
This is close to the initial timed firing position.

Install dist with the rotor pointing approximatedly at the #2 terminal on the cap and the distributor housing orientated as in the previous pic I posted.
Push down slowly and you will feel the gears mesh and the rotor will move toward the #1 position.
If it is going to go past #1, then slowly pull up on the distributer until you feel the gears "unmesh". then turn the rotor more towards the #2 direction with slight pressure down until you feel you have moved over 1 more tooth.
Then push down as far as it will go again to see if it is close to lining up with #1 terminal.
If the distributer housing base where you clamp it tight has a gap between it and the intake manifold, then the oil shaft has not lined up.
If this is the case, then the rotor should be between the #1 and #2 terminals on the cap.
Then just push down lightly on the distributer housing (watch out for spinning rotor) while someone cranks the starter over, and it will drop in place and the timing will be correct to fire up.
It may sound a little confusing, but try it and it's pretty simple and is is the easiest way I have found.

To check it, do the balloon thing again with the distributor now being fully seated on the intake. Turn the distributer housing until the rotor leading edge meets the #1 cap terminal. If ther housing is oriented properly as in the first pic then you will have ample room to turn the distributer for timing. Now clamp the distributor tight and use you timing lite to time engine.

I suspect when it was popping before your were just a tooth off because of the oil shaft interference.


Last edited by noonie; Oct 8, 2007 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 05:34 AM
  #33  
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Thanks for that info, give that a go today

cheers

dave
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 07:22 AM
  #34  
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Right good news, sort of got it started, but it backfires huge flames out the top of the carb, then a small amount of fuel left in the carb, catches fire!!

Is it just that its cold or is the timing out by a lot?, if I move the dizzy left and right, then it wont start, or harder to start

any ideas chaps??

dave
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 08:03 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by agent kronus
Right good news, sort of got it started, but it backfires huge flames out the top of the carb, then a small amount of fuel left in the carb, catches fire!!

Is it just that its cold or is the timing out by a lot?, if I move the dizzy left and right, then it wont start, or harder to start

any ideas chaps??

dave
Recheck.......Bring timing mark up on TDC-pull your cap off and see how close you are to the rotor tip being on the #1 contact in dist cap.Lift dist and rotate and move one tooth towards being right on.Restart and check timing.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Recheck.......Bring timing mark up on TDC-pull your cap off and see how close you are to the rotor tip being on the #1 contact in dist cap.Lift dist and rotate and move one tooth towards being right on.Restart and check timing.
I played with dizzy, got the thing started, got the timing gun on it, sorted, set at 8 degrees intial timing, it does seem a bit lumpy, but my battery is dead, maybe that might cause it to be a bit funny!

got a vac gauge on it, still slows a low reading 11/12 hg, which was the same as before, defo no vac leaks, maybe worn valves causing low vac or different cam??

Still need to tune carb, which I will do soon

cheers

dave
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 03:30 PM
  #37  
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Which method did you use to get the distributor in place to start. I found out about the baloon method last year. Didn't think about that one. I have 16-18" of vacuum at idle. Some say 18-22" is ideal. A radical cam will affect vacuum.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldguard 7
Which method did you use to get the distributor in place to start. I found out about the balloon method last year. Didn't think about that one. I have 16-18" of vacuum at idle. Some say 18-22" is ideal. A radical cam will affect vacuum.
i tryed to do the balloon method, but couldn't get the internal stuff out of a old spark plug, got a rag , stuffed into hole, bumped her over, rag shot out of hole , stopped bumping, and line on the balancer was on the marker, moved it a wee bit to 10 degrees, job done

its the vac thing I'm trying to solve now!!

cheers

dave

Last edited by agent kronus; Oct 9, 2007 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #39  
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Try bumping up your initial timing for one and see if you gain some vacuum.Adjust idle mixture.
Also with all that backfiring you could have done damage to the carb-throttle plates and or gaskets
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 05:56 PM
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cheers, will do

dave
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