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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 12:12 AM
  #1  
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From: Franklin MA
Default help me diagnose my brake problem

Hi,

I replaced my master cylinder with a brand new master cylinder. Bled the master cylinder on the car with the bleeder kit. I then attached the brake lines and motive bleeder and tried to bleed the rest of the system. I started from the driver side front wheel and worked my way to the passenger side rear. Everything was fine until I got to the passenger side rear. It barely drips with the bleeder set to 10 psi. I waited and waited, same thing. I finally attached my vacuum pump and tried to suck the brake fluid to help the motive bleeder. I must have gone through 3 - 4 quarts of fluid just on this wheel. There were a lot of air. If I stop pumping the vacuum pump, it just barely drips. If I keep puming, more air and fluid come out. What do I have to do to figure out what wrong with me brake? Thanks.

-Peter
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 12:35 AM
  #2  
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sounds like a plugged line to me!
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 12:42 AM
  #3  
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From: Franklin MA
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Originally Posted by 427V8
sounds like a plugged line to me!
Thanks. How do I know if the line is plugged? Do I remove the line a section at a time and see where the brake fluid flows smoothly?
If I have a plugged line, why am I getting all the air in the line?
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 06:31 AM
  #4  
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I've been battleing my brake problems for a while now,, and I just bled the rears on mine, with my motive, and got a similar problem with air on the drivers side rear. A little back ground. Just replaced the rear calipers with O-rings to reduce air sucking the lip seal ones have, the old calipers were new too, but lip seals. Used the motive, but made a new adapter because the plastic one sucks so bad. Use a Large C-clamp on it if you can, I made a steel plate one,, bled yesterday at 20 psi with not a drop leaked, was great. Well, on bleeding the pass rear, I kept getting all these air bubbles the second time i bled it, Always bleed them twice, both rears. It was fine at first, up to 1/2 a quart, so I listened really close and I could here a hissing sound. It seams there was air being sucked in at the bleeder valve threads,, sounds like your sucking air in with the vacume pump at the valve threads,, so the air isn't coming from the system. I repalced my rubber hoses and I just get a trickle, even at 20 PSI, I think that's normal, just put it in a jar and watch for air bubbles, beware of it sucking air though. I would recomend you replace your rubber hoses at the first oporunity, if you havn't allready. remember, Vetes don't move much brake fluid at all when they brake, mainly a pressure transfer system. Try a c-clamp on the motive and a piece of plywood with a hole cut in it for the hose if you have leaking problems. the 1105 adapter is a POS with the chains. good luck,, C.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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Your bleed sequence is incorrect, should be:
RR inner
RR outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF
LF
Start with the furthest from the MC and work to the closest. There are 2 bleeder screws on the rears of a 69, not sure of a 71.
It was a 2 man job making sure that the fluid level remained high enough in the MC as to not suck air and we bled all around 3x before getting a good pedal.
Good Luck!!
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by schmegeggie
Your bleed sequence is incorrect, should be:
RR inner
RR outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF
LF
Start with the furthest from the MC and work to the closest. There are 2 bleeder screws on the rears of a 69, not sure of a 71.
It was a 2 man job making sure that the fluid level remained high enough in the MC as to not suck air and we bled all around 3x before getting a good pedal.
Good Luck!!
Reply
Old Oct 7, 2007 | 11:20 AM
  #7  
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From: Franklin MA
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
I've been battleing my brake problems for a while now,, and I just bled the rears on mine, with my motive, and got a similar problem with air on the drivers side rear. A little back ground. Just replaced the rear calipers with O-rings to reduce air sucking the lip seal ones have, the old calipers were new too, but lip seals. Used the motive, but made a new adapter because the plastic one sucks so bad. Use a Large C-clamp on it if you can, I made a steel plate one,, bled yesterday at 20 psi with not a drop leaked, was great. Well, on bleeding the pass rear, I kept getting all these air bubbles the second time i bled it, Always bleed them twice, both rears. It was fine at first, up to 1/2 a quart, so I listened really close and I could here a hissing sound. It seams there was air being sucked in at the bleeder valve threads,, sounds like your sucking air in with the vacume pump at the valve threads,, so the air isn't coming from the system. I repalced my rubber hoses and I just get a trickle, even at 20 PSI, I think that's normal, just put it in a jar and watch for air bubbles, beware of it sucking air though. I would recomend you replace your rubber hoses at the first oporunity, if you havn't allready. remember, Vetes don't move much brake fluid at all when they brake, mainly a pressure transfer system. Try a c-clamp on the motive and a piece of plywood with a hole cut in it for the hose if you have leaking problems. the 1105 adapter is a POS with the chains. good luck,, C.
I thought I maybe sucking air through the bleeder valve threads so I put some grease around the threads to hopefully stop it. Not sure if I should do that but I did it anyway. The vacuum pump was still sucking air from somewhere.
Here's what I did with the motive bleeder. I had no problem at 10 psi. It start leaking at 15 psi so I kept at 10 psi.

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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 11:26 AM
  #8  
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From: Franklin MA
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Originally Posted by schmegeggie
Your bleed sequence is incorrect, should be:
RR inner
RR outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF
LF
Start with the furthest from the MC and work to the closest. There are 2 bleeder screws on the rears of a 69, not sure of a 71.
It was a 2 man job making sure that the fluid level remained high enough in the MC as to not suck air and we bled all around 3x before getting a good pedal.
Good Luck!!
I read a lot of threads that agreed with what you said. However, my gm service manual said start from the wheel closest to the master cylinder. I was going to bleed the wheel twice using the sequence you described anyway to make sure I have no air in the system. However, I can't seem to get the air out of my passenger side rear.

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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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Default I use and aluminum plate and...

...made a gasket from an inner tube. My pressure bleeder does not leak at all even when I've accidentally pressurized it to 25 or so psig.

If it didn't work so well, I'd go get an old master cylinder cover and install a fitting on it.

Nevertheless, it does sound like a plugged line to me. If it was mine, I would use pressurized air and blow it backwards (ensuring that I did not blow brake fluid all over the known universe) to the first common connection.

It's so easy to use the pressure bleeder that I don't even dread bleeding brakes anymore...so, I'd then just rebleed.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 04:04 PM
  #10  
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From: Franklin MA
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I tried to gravity bleeding the brake and I got about 1 drop of fluid every 2 to 3 seconds but there was no air coming out of it. I put everything together and the brake seems pretty firm. My vacuum pump must be sucking air in from the bleeder valve??? If I have a plugged line, I think I'll just replace the lines. Thanks for all the help.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 07:35 PM
  #11  
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From: dallas pa
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had a problem just like this.crossover line from lr to rr caliper had been flattened out, someone painted over it so it was not that easy to see, probably from bubba off roading, the dirt had collected in it and would only let fluid under pressure go thru, when you let up the pedal it would not return the fluid, replaced the line and bled it by myself with a set of russel speed bleeders, that was 8 months ago and it has been fine since
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 08:15 PM
  #12  
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Just got through with a similar problem. Check Your rear hose. It's probably collapsed. Take it off and blow through it. You will probably find the problem. If that's the problem you might as well change all 4 hoses.

As far as the bleeders they will suck air in if you loosen to much. Wiggle the bleeder to determine if thats the case.

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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 02:29 PM
  #13  
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Same problem for me a couple weeks ago. Front left brake line hose bad. No brake fluid would come out. Motive bleeder worked great.....Once I finally got it clamped down tight enough. I took the brake hose off and tried to blow air through with no luck. Replaced front hoses and with the Motive bleeder it is a one person job...15 minutes. My repair manual also says to start with the right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Just my .02 cents.
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:06 PM
  #14  
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From: Lutz Florida
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Originally Posted by schmegeggie
Your bleed sequence is incorrect, should be:
RR inner
RR outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF
LF
Start with the furthest from the MC and work to the closest. There are 2 bleeder screws on the rears of a 69, not sure of a 71.
It was a 2 man job making sure that the fluid level remained high enough in the MC as to not suck air and we bled all around 3x before getting a good pedal.
Good Luck!!
Yep, thats the way you do it
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