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Oct 12, 2007 | 03:05 PM

smaster73

Thread Starter

Cruising

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 12

Likes: 0

From: Ottawa Ontario

need new rad

I am looking to buy a new rad as my original one is almost 35 years old.
I have been told to get an aluminum one. Is that the best choice?
The car is a 73 with an L48 350 /turbo 400. The engine will be getting a rebuild this winter. Hoping for 300-350 horses when completed.

Oct 12, 2007 | 03:09 PM

Durango_Boy

Team Owner

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 24,125

Likes: 15

From: Columbia Missouri

One word. DeWitts.

http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=281

Top it off with an electric fan of some kind. You have a lot of options there to.

Good luck with your engine rebuild.

Oct 12, 2007 | 04:22 PM

rihwoods

Race Director

Joined: Feb 2005

Posts: 16,100

Likes: 17

Old copper-brass radiators were soldered together, but solder is a poor thermal conductor and this reduced the ability of the fins to remove heat from the tubes.

Rich

Oct 12, 2007 | 04:51 PM

0Tom@Dewitt

Former Vendor

Joined: Jan 2000

Posts: 5,593

Likes: 631

From: Brighton

Quote:

Originally Posted by smaster73

Rich & Matt are big fans of our products, and I appreciate it very much! You guys are just too good to me!!!!

If I pretended to be totally unbias (which I'm not) the answer to the posted question is, "it depends". Are aluminum radiators better coolers than the 4 row copper units? Yes they are. Do you need one? Maybe not. The copper radiators in 1973-76 are HUGE. In fact, they are the largest core surface installed in any corvette ever made and the HP for these years were fairly low. So, you have a bunch of options:
(A) You could recore the original one. We make a "correct" copper core which includes the hat channels and cut out for originality. Click here
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=262(B) you could just have the local rad shop recore it but you'd end up with an open U shape channel that screams "replacement" , at least to me it does. (C) You could buy a new aftermarket radiator for about $300, which most of them are imported from China, but hey, if that's your thing. (D)You could upgrade to the aluminum unit, if you have the funds, and want more capacity. I will say the aluminum is about half the weight and if you opt for our "Black Ice" coat, most people can't tell it's aluminum

Oct 12, 2007 | 05:27 PM

rihwoods

Race Director

Joined: Feb 2005

Posts: 16,100

Likes: 17

Tom...

I have a year on your Aluminum radiator now (78 L-82 w/AC). It has performed great and I often drive in very harsh conditions (ambient air temps 95-110 F) pulling long hills....coolant temps never exceed 195 or so...now that weather has cooled down,coolant temps are about 185 or bouncing off thermostat temp of 180 F...
Stock seven blade fan/w GM AX fan clutch...

Rich

Oct 12, 2007 | 07:20 PM

rosslato

Melting Slicks

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 3,248

Likes: 48

From: westland mi

also a big fan of DeWitts alum radiators

Oct 12, 2007 | 08:09 PM

Gordonm

Race Director

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 19,610

Likes: 778

From: Forked River NJ

My Dewitts aluminum rad with dual Spals performs very well. I put it to the test this summer. Stuck in traffic for over an hour crawling in 100+ degree heat. The cooling system did better than me. I was wiped out when I got there but the car kept its cool.

Oct 13, 2007 | 07:27 PM

OzzyTom

Burning Brakes

Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 1,004

Likes: 7

From: Adelaide South Australia

I have also just installed a Dewitts aluminium rad in my 68 vert. (475hp 383)

I opted for the black ice finish. I can't believe how "original" it looks.
And it's so much lighter too. Apart from the neat tig weld lines on the end tank seams, you would never know it was a reproduction.

I've only just installed the new motor and there's no issues.
I am still running stock fan and shroud, but temps are moderate at present...
We have >100*C temps during our summer season (December~February) , so it will be a good test.... Hi-perf motor + A/C + high ambient temps.