1980 Electrical Question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Yerington NV
1980 Electrical Question
From the LH fender comes a wiring harness that goes to Alternator AND has a wire that supplies power to auto choke on carb.
SHOULD this be a full 12 volts when key is on? I checked it with a test probe and I got dim light, and I put it on Battery connector at distributor and got a very bright light.
Tested today with voltmeter, and at choke I have 11.8vdc and from the battery wire at distrib I have 11.9vdc - hardly any diff, why the big diff in light???
Should I maybe splice the battery wire and provide power to choke from it instead to have full juice to auto choke?
Anybody have some real working knowledge about this??
SHOULD this be a full 12 volts when key is on? I checked it with a test probe and I got dim light, and I put it on Battery connector at distributor and got a very bright light.
Tested today with voltmeter, and at choke I have 11.8vdc and from the battery wire at distrib I have 11.9vdc - hardly any diff, why the big diff in light???
Should I maybe splice the battery wire and provide power to choke from it instead to have full juice to auto choke?
Anybody have some real working knowledge about this??
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Power to the choke heater comes through a relay-first make sure the CHOKE HEATER fuse is good.The small trickle you are getting could be coming through the "choke heater lamp" in the dash cluster.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Yerington NV
Fuse is good - found the relay
How do I test CHOKE HEATER RELAY, to see if it is working properly?
SHOULD I still have voltage at the heater connector, IF the relay is removed from connector?
If not, then BUBBA has been here (again) ....
SHOULD I still have voltage at the heater connector, IF the relay is removed from connector?
If not, then BUBBA has been here (again) ....
Last edited by tomard; Oct 15, 2007 at 05:34 PM.