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I will be pulling my 72 350 and trans (m-20). Is it recomended to pull engine and trans together or pul the engine and then the trans. Not sure hou much trouble the linkage will give me.
Pulling the motor and trans together from the side can be a pain in the butt even if the hood is removed. Going in from the front requires the hood to be removed and even then you have a lot of weight stretched way out on front hovering over a fiberglass nose and fenders.
Any other car or truck, yes, both from the front.
Your vette, I agree with Roger. Pull one, then the other.
Marty and I pulled his motor and tranny out together, hood off, left front wheel off and car on jack stands. It was very easy that way, if you have help there is no reason to even bump anything on the way out. Going back in should be the same
Marty and I pulled his motor and tranny out together, hood off, left front wheel off and car on jack stands. It was very easy that way, if you have help there is no reason to even bump anything on the way out. Going back in should be the same I pulled motor and trans together and re-instaled sameway. No problems.
Are you going to be working on the trans???
If your rebuilding both, pull them together.
If not, you can easily get the engine out without even pulling the radiator or shroud.
Just pull the water pump and balancer and it will clear.
You will have to support the trans while the engine is out.
If you don't have any reason to pull the trans, I say DON'T.
Just curious, I would tend to just pull the motor out, based on everyone's comments and the fact that the trans doesn't need work.
My question...to leave the tranny in the car (muncie), is it easier to unbolt the bellhousing from the block (right at the firewall) or is there another way (unbolt the tranny from the bellhousing)? I can't picture it so please don't let me hear about it if I'm off here... Just looking for a step-by-step of divorcing the tranny from the motor on a 4-speed car. Thanks!
My question...to leave the tranny in the car (muncie), is it easier to unbolt the bellhousing
I just installed a ZZ4 in my '73.
I left the Muncie and bell housing in the car. It wasn't too bad going back in. You need an engine leveler and little patients lining the input shaft up.
If I were to do it again I would probably pull both the engine and trans together.
Here is my two cents worth on this subject: The last time I had my engine out I removed the trans first and re-installed it once the engine was back in the car. I might add, that I was able to remove and install the engine with the radiator and dreaded shroud in place. One more thing, the bell housing was on the engine during these operations. I saved myself some problems by test fitting the trans to the bell housing/clutch assembly before installing the engine.
The only way you are going to get the engine out from the front is a lift with a very long arm or a hoist from the ceiling. Pulling it from the side was no problem. Once the motor is up just pull the lift towards the front of the car.
Ya need a long boom to get it from the front.
And a hell of a lot easier from the front. I pulled both out togeather yet I had the rad out before pull. Found it easier to get rad back due to I could stand in the empty hole.
I usually pull the left wheel, throw some jackstands and pull both at the same time. Its a PITA to line up the input shaft when you do them seperate. When I dropped the 454/M20 in my 70, they both went in at once with the radiator and core support out of the car. When I pulled the 350/T-10 from my white 75, I pulled the radiator and support and pulled both at once. When I installed that motor in my black 75 with out a tranny, I left the radiator in.
When you pull the core support and radiator, you get WAY more room. You can really see just how far back the motor sits from the nose in this pic.