68 Ignition Switch
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 81
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From: Bakersfield CA
68 Ignition Switch
Hi, All...my 68 ignition switch sticks sometimes when trying to start, like it just locks up. I've noticed the housing has some free spin, and will be removing the dash to see if there's a tightening nut on the back side (removing dash anyway to see if odometer cable is connected, since it's not working). Could the problems be related, or should I be looking for something else? Thanks...Scott
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Austin Tx
I didn't need to pull the driver dash to get to the speedo cable, or to pull the ignition switch. I pulled out one of the air vents under the driver dash to get a whole lot more room behind the dash though. Did have to pull the center console to pull the ing switch out. don't believe there is a nut back behind the switch, it’s held in the front with the ring. My memory is lacking, and I can’t seem to find it in the AIM.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Austin Tx
There is a way to pull the lock part of the switch out of the harness with a paperclip. (somehow, I don''t know it well enough to post it) I had to replace my switch, but I also took the key part to a locksmith for a little service too. The little springs were falling out. Get a new key while you are at it, cant hurt 
I had an issue with my speedo not working, however the odometer was working. I pulled the cable off, and stuck it back in, and the speedo works fine now.
I had an issue with my speedo not working, however the odometer was working. I pulled the cable off, and stuck it back in, and the speedo works fine now.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 81
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From: Bakersfield CA
I tightened the ring in front, and the problem got worse. At your suggestion, I started looking closer at the switch and key. Both are very tired looking. I'm willing to bet my problem is one or both of these. It's not expensive to replace, may just do that. Thanks, again!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
You can put a paper clip in the front little hole near the key and turn the key and the ignition cover and cylinder will pop out. Don't remember if the lock-ring needs to come off first or not.
I posted on this a little while back.
Here are a few pics.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Good luck. I have posted on this in the past and turned up empty handed. Some suggested trying other GM cars during that era that used indash ignition. I couldn't find one but my search was cut short when I got mine working again.
You can put a paper clip in the front little hole near the key and turn the key and the ignition cover and cylinder will pop out. Don't remember if the lock-ring needs to come off first or not.
You can put a paper clip in the front little hole near the key and turn the key and the ignition cover and cylinder will pop out. Don't remember if the lock-ring needs to come off first or not.
paper clip will release the locking cylender, once you have that removed, you can un screw the retaining ring that holds the swithc in, the problem most likey resides in the locking cylender, and may be servicable by a decent lock smith
as far as takin out the dash goes, you can check this while it is all together, there are two irtems, the speedo cable, and the odometer reset cable that is at the bottom of the dash. if the speedo cable is connected then the odometer should work, as it is one mechanism if the odometer rest cable is absent or not connected that is somethign elese
cheers
tim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
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From: North NJ
with Tim.I had to remove my door lock cylinders and take them to a local locksmith to get keys made and had it freshened up. Couldn't find those as reproduction parts anywhere either.
Best bet is to remove them and take them to a good locksmith and have them work their magic.
I'd like to have mine keyed to match in the future, now I have two seperate keys.
The odometer reset cable should be fastened to an angle bracket that is screwed to the bottom of the dash under the speedo. This is fastened to that angle bracket with an outside diameter nut just like the ignition switch is fastened to the dash. Unscrew the outside nut and the cable pops out the back of the angle bracket.
If you turn the end of this cable does your odometer react?
If the internals are messed up you'll have to remove the dash and send the gauge out for a rebuild.
If it comes to that I would suggest sending the tach also to be freshened up and you can get the gauge face refinished so it looks brand new.
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
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From: Seattle Wash.
Start by disconnecting the battery.
1. Turn the key counter clockwise to the "ACC" position.
2. Insert the paper clip and push the spring loaded button.
3. When the button is pushed in, turn the lock cylinder counter clockwise again, it should move just a little bit, then pull the ignition cylinder from the housing. At that point, you can tighten the bezel that holds the housing in place. No need to disassemble the dash to do this.
Good luck!
1. Turn the key counter clockwise to the "ACC" position.
2. Insert the paper clip and push the spring loaded button.
3. When the button is pushed in, turn the lock cylinder counter clockwise again, it should move just a little bit, then pull the ignition cylinder from the housing. At that point, you can tighten the bezel that holds the housing in place. No need to disassemble the dash to do this.
Good luck!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,275
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From: Redondo Beach, California
Repro versions of the 68 ignition switch are available. However, they don't have provisions for the light bulb. (68 switches are illuminated by a light bulb that allows light to come through the slot where you insert the key.
The "start" contact on my original switch eventually burnt out (actually is has a corroded look from being etched by the starter solonoid current).
A starter solonoid factoid: The solonoid on my ministarter draws 12 amperes. That's a pretty good amount of current to be switching through a small contact switch.
The "start" contact on my original switch eventually burnt out (actually is has a corroded look from being etched by the starter solonoid current).
A starter solonoid factoid: The solonoid on my ministarter draws 12 amperes. That's a pretty good amount of current to be switching through a small contact switch.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Repro versions of the 68 ignition switch are available. However, they don't have provisions for the light bulb. (68 switches are illuminated by a light bulb that allows light to come through the slot where you insert the key.
The "start" contact on my original switch eventually burnt out (actually is has a corroded look from being etched by the starter solonoid current).
A starter solonoid factoid: The solonoid on my ministarter draws 12 amperes. That's a pretty good amount of current to be switching through a small contact switch.
The "start" contact on my original switch eventually burnt out (actually is has a corroded look from being etched by the starter solonoid current).
A starter solonoid factoid: The solonoid on my ministarter draws 12 amperes. That's a pretty good amount of current to be switching through a small contact switch.
after a 39 year duty cycle you'd be burned out too
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From: Bay Saint Louis, Ms
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