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Is this strut rod normal
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 191
Likes: 1
From: MONTREAL QUEBEC
Thanks for your replies.
I was afraid the wrong strut rods were in there. I bet my trailing arm bushings look even worse.
My Bilsteins and strut bushings are coming in this week and I'll change those for now an see how it goes.
I've been spraying pb blaster on those strut rods for a week now and I hope they'll come out with no headaches.
I was afraid the wrong strut rods were in there. I bet my trailing arm bushings look even worse.
My Bilsteins and strut bushings are coming in this week and I'll change those for now an see how it goes.
I've been spraying pb blaster on those strut rods for a week now and I hope they'll come out with no headaches.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
From: Des Allemands LA
Thanks for your replies.
I was afraid the wrong strut rods were in there. I bet my trailing arm bushings look even worse.
My Bilsteins and strut bushings are coming in this week and I'll change those for now an see how it goes.
I've been spraying pb blaster on those strut rods for a week now and I hope they'll come out with no headaches.
I was afraid the wrong strut rods were in there. I bet my trailing arm bushings look even worse.
My Bilsteins and strut bushings are coming in this week and I'll change those for now an see how it goes.
I've been spraying pb blaster on those strut rods for a week now and I hope they'll come out with no headaches.
This goes without saying but be real careful when trying to get the struts apart. I broke one of the ears off my TA support which led to rebuilding both TA's, installing adjustable struts and half shaft loops.
ltlevil
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 191
Likes: 1
From: MONTREAL QUEBEC
Maybe some of the experts can chime in, but I think the struts camber adjustment and new bushings may solve your negative camber. However I've been told that your differential yokes can affect it as well.Maybe somebody can confirm that.
Ltlevil I'm worried that I may need to pull out the sawzall, I don't want to hammer that support too hard. I figure 10 days of pb blaster and the shock mount removal tool "should"
do the trick.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
From: Des Allemands LA
I had to use a cut off tool to get mine apart. First I cut the outer part of the stut rod then peeled it apart to get it out of the way. Then cut through the bushing sleeve and bolt. Hope it works out for you.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Once you have the outer part peeled away use a razor and remove the rubber bushing if any is left.Then you will see the sleeve around the shock mount bolt.In the sleeve will be a "split",drive a small chisel in the split until it spreads open-shoot some PB in there.Now you have released the rusted sleeve from the bolt.The bolt should drive out without breaking the ear of the bearing support.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 191
Likes: 1
From: MONTREAL QUEBEC
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Only do that if you don't have access to an oxygen/acetylene torch system. By burning out the old bushing, turning the strut rod sideways as much as possible, and heating the inner sleeve to cherry red, the shock mount should become easy to drive out using a 3/8 NPT pipe cap on the threads (don't ask, it fits). No need to be destructive.
