My engine is knocking bad and its time for a rebuild. I want to have about 400 hp at the wheels out of a 383 eventually. My question is should i use forged internals or if not what should i use. I want to be safe since it will be my daily driver. Streetability is not really an issue but not breaking parts is.

 

You shouldn't need forged...I would think that a good set of hypereutectic pistons and a cast crank would work great. But that's my $0.02 :smash:

 

Its time to buy a crate motor if you want to get that kind of power; you will spend less and get a warrantee to boot.

 

A zz4 is about $3,400. I should be able to build an engine for less than that. Besides i just want to build the engine for fun. :)

 

Are you planning on doing all of the work other than the machining?
Are you going to use your current engine block?

 

yes and yes as long as it is good if not i can get another one very cheap from a friend :)

 

How hard do you plan on driving it?
What is the maximum RPM range that you are looking for?
I'm guessing that COST IS IMPORTANT and you just want to build the best engine for a given dollar amount. How much money are you willing to spend? Be honest with yourself about the $ amount and I'm willing to bet that the guys on this forum will be able to suggest a respectable combo to fit your budget. There seems to be an exponetial curve when evaluating "reliable HP" vs. "dollars spent".

Whoop out that charge card and lets get busy! :lol:

 

Right now i want to build the bottom end use my heads and swap intake and cam. Later when i have more money i want to keep the same bottom end and go to better heads and a more radical cam/ intake. I would like to keep it under $2000 for now. I want a reliable engine thats not going to blow up unless under normal use/abuse. I would like it to rev to between 5500 and 6000 rpm without any problems. Is this possible or should i make other plans. Thanks for all the advice. :chevy

 

WOW! :eek: I think that your going to be pleasantly surprised at what you can do with that much money! When the sun comes up on this place, this thread will probably get lot's of hits!
I'm at work right now so I don't have access to my all of my files and links. But I'll look around for some good reading links for ya!

Is yours a numbers matching engine?

 

The intake carb and cam, no. The block and heads :confused: i need to check on still. I may not use the block if it is. To me numbers matching doesnt mean anything and I dont ever plan on selling the car but you never know for sure.

 

Check out this site to give yourself some ideas for suitable combinations:
Small Block Chevy Dynoed Combos http://ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos.html

Chevy High Performance Goodwrench Quest (Great example of HP on a budget!)
http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/cl...in/chp/chp.htm

Below is the contact information for the guy who built my 383 short-block. He is located in Walters, Oklahoma. The base price for one of his assembled 383 short-blocks is ~$1150.00. No core exchange required. The short block that he built for me sounds and runs GREAT!
He seems very knowledgeable and pleasant to talk with. He won’t try to talk you into stuff that you don’t need for your particular application. In other words he won’t try to B.S. you into spending a bunch of money.
Below is basically what the assembly includes. I could be leaving something out but overall this is it and extra stuff cost extra accordingly;
New SCAT 3.75 cast crank.
Match balanced. (extra charge for dynamic balance)
Cloyes double roller timing chain.
Clevite or Federal Mogel bearings.
5.7 or 5.565 rods (reconditioned)
Speed Pro moly rings.
Federal Mogel or equivalent hyperuretic pistons.
Federal Mogel lifters.
Custom ground camshaft to your specifications.
No block core exchange required.
Give him a call or email him and at the very least he may be able to help you decide what combination would be best for your needs and budget. Tell him that Mike Robinson recommended him to you.
(This information is for you or ANYONE who wants it)
Victor Penrod
Penrod Racing
412 E. Nevada St.
Walters, Ok. 73572
Home: 580-875-2086
Work: 580-875-4267
Vclassman4@aol.com

This Vortech “Head Kit” is a pretty decent deal to top off a short block assembly.
Vortec Head Kit Price $699 Part# SD8060KIT
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...d=277&pid=1120

Connecting Rod Length Comparison
http://www.bokonon.net/corvettefaq/c...Comparison.htm

Welcome to Corvettefaq.com
C3 Corvettes (1968-82) Only
http://corvettefaq.com/




[Modified by MIKER, 3:44 AM 11/17/2001]

 

I know more than two people have an opinion on this.
Thanks :)

 

Have a look at some of the things monty has done.....strongest bottom end is prob 4340 internally balanced crank,4340 h beam rods in 6" and good pistons like je srp......comp ratios and suitability a bit hard if you are keeping stock heads and valves.....as to brand of the goodies,price varies a great deal....scat,eagle, crower then cola in ascending price order......you can very easily spend a lot more than $2000 on the bottom end after taking machining into account......it really makes more sense to do the whole lot at once as everything can be properly matched......most of the expense is going to be in the heads and the porting work on them.......john :chevy