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mechanical tach drive cable - Are inserts available?

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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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Default mechanical tach drive cable - Are inserts available?

As title states, Can you buy the inner cable only or do I need to buy a complete cable?

If so, who has them?

The cable makes a sharp turn to get back through the firewall grommet, and that, I guess, was the cause of the breakage.
I have seen 90* adaptors available, which attach to the distributor.... are they any good? Or are they another source of potential breakage?

tom
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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No need for the adapters. They are just a band ade. Take the dist and reclock it so the cable is pointed in the correct orientation needed.

Never seen just the inner. You don't have to use the whole cable probably just buy the whole cable and use the inner one if that is all that is needed
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Here is a repair kit.
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...4&dept_id=1210
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Did you see on the right in the picture the complete cable was cheaper than the inter cable kit.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by LYLE
Did you see on the right in the picture the complete cable was cheaper than the inter cable kit.
No I didnt.I would check Autozone,they used to sell the inner for about $10.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 01:50 AM
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I dropped into the local instrument repair shop here....
thought they might have inner cables available.

"Yep, we can fix it". says the guy behind the counter.
" $55.00 " He adds.

I think I'll buy the complete cable for $20.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 04:42 AM
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They are simple to make but I dont have all the lengths .
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by OzzyTom

I think I'll buy the complete cable for $20.
Probably best because if your original inner cable balled up when it broke it could have damaged the inside of the outer housing.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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I buy the "El Cheapo" Help brand spedo cable repair kits all the time to fix broken tach drives BUT, swedging on the new end is a "one shot" deal so, you have to be exact about length and get the swedge centered or your buying another repair kit. Maybe the Delco replacement isn't such abad deal after all! Make sure you get distributor "clocked" correctly and cable angle will be correct just like Chevy did. Get the AIM guide for your C3.
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 02:04 AM
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My distributor IS clocked correctly.... the problem is I have a right hand drive corvette, and the cable has to make a sharp 90* bend to get through the firewall on its way to the right side of the dash.

I could re-clock my distributor to have the drive facing the rear right I suppose. That would mean having the body of the dizzy spun 90* counter clockwise. The cap has a locating lug, so #1 plug wire would be located at the rear of the dizzy.... can be done I suppose.

or maybe I'll get that 90* cable drive adaptor and see if it works.

cheers
tom
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by OzzyTom
My distributor IS clocked correctly.... the problem is I have a right hand drive corvette, and the cable has to make a sharp 90* bend to get through the firewall on its way to the right side of the dash.
cheers
tom
That stock? Pics please.
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by OzzyTom
My distributor IS clocked correctly.... the problem is I have a right hand drive corvette, and the cable has to make a sharp 90* bend to get through the firewall on its way to the right side of the dash.

I could re-clock my distributor to have the drive facing the rear right I suppose. That would mean having the body of the dizzy spun 90* counter clockwise. The cap has a locating lug, so #1 plug wire would be located at the rear of the dizzy.... can be done I suppose.

or maybe I'll get that 90* cable drive adaptor and see if it works.

cheers
tom
Right hand drive? Thats different !!!
Just clock your dist. where it works best for your application.Move the plug wires where you need them.
On the 90* drive-they have weight to them and they will wear the dist.Plus they cost money-reclocking the dist will cost only the time to do it.
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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A few pics of my right hand drive 1968 convertible.....










Not quite finished yet..... getting the A/C to work properly is next on the list..... It's an ongoing project ....
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 07:25 PM
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IIRC, at least a few years ago you could purchase the inner cable from GM. Don't have a P/N though (sorry).
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 07:54 PM
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Beautiful Vette OzzyTom!

Corvette central has an inner cable for $10US. I've repaired mine before with those. In your case, I'd just keep experimenting with rotating the distributor until it was aligned in a manner that didn't result in extreme bends in the cable.
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 08:06 PM
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Nice work on the conversion. I thought laws down under had changed and you could import a 20year old LHD car there now, is that true?
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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WOW that is nice.If I was a passenger I would have a hard time keeping my hand off the shifter.
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To mechanical tach drive cable - Are inserts available?

Old Nov 10, 2007 | 11:05 PM
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I think the vacumn advance may keep you from clocking the dissy the other way. A longer cable may help.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
Nice work on the conversion. I thought laws down under had changed and you could import a 20year old LHD car there now, is that true?
Each state in Australia has different rules.... In my state (South Australia) you can register left hand drive vehicles if they are more than 30 years of age, and original.
Western Australia allows vehicles as young as 15 to be registered as left hooks. Not sure about the other states.... but 25 years seems to ring a bell.

The conversion to RHD on my '68 was done in 1994.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by LYLE
I think the vacumn advance may keep you from clocking the dissy the other way. A longer cable may help.
I had a good look and you're right... I only have about 60* of rotational arc available before the vac advance would foul on the intake.
Even If I could spin it around 90*, the cable connector would be hard up against the firewall..... so my option is still the 90* adaptor, or as you suggest, a longer cable with a loop before entry through the firewall.... thanks for the idea.

cheers
tom
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