81 "Best Modification" Question
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,696
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
I'd do (did actually) 3 (200-4R) then 8 then 5. 8 should be replace the catalytic converter with a real one that flows.
Stay away from the carb if you're on a budget. The carb, computer and distributor are tied together so if you change one, the others won't work well. Same goes with a cam change. It is very easy to upset the primative computer.
200-4R fits better than a 700R4. Saves you the trouble of shortening the drive shaft. 700 has a slightly lower first gear than the 200 does though. Both are better than your TH350.
A nice set of 64cc heads will make a world of difference with output. The stock carb will support this setup very well.
Stay away from the carb if you're on a budget. The carb, computer and distributor are tied together so if you change one, the others won't work well. Same goes with a cam change. It is very easy to upset the primative computer.
200-4R fits better than a 700R4. Saves you the trouble of shortening the drive shaft. 700 has a slightly lower first gear than the 200 does though. Both are better than your TH350.
A nice set of 64cc heads will make a world of difference with output. The stock carb will support this setup very well.
Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; Jan 31, 2008 at 02:00 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Stick with the CCC, Carb and distributor you have, they work fine when tuned properly just like any other carb. That carb is a 750 so it can support over 300 hp with maybe changing the secondary rods.
Do the best you can afford with the exhaust first, that is a requirement for ANY hp mods.
The intake you have should be an Edlebrock 2101 aluminum which is also a good unit, keep it.
Drop the emissions if you can, air pump and hoses. Keep the EGR, keep the evap canister.
So far you haven't spent much, lets fix that.
Tranny: 2004R definately. It has a better gear set and over drive, see where that gets you before gearing mods in the rear end, I built mine for under $900
Bumpier cam, many choices out there full kits under $200
That will get oyu down the road MUCH quicker.
Now for some more $$
Heads, get the best you can afford, Vortec will require a new intake..$1000 or so
AFR 180 street heads are $1500 assembled and will allow more aggresive cam
See what all that does for you.
Now the rear end: The pumpkin is weak on the 80 to 82, very few mods you can do to make it better. The solution is an Iron unit from an earlier year which will require new drive shaft and yokes. HP mods for the iron rear will get you a drive line to handle BIG hp. This is a pricy mod, over $2k, but gives you MANY options for final gearing.
Do the best you can afford with the exhaust first, that is a requirement for ANY hp mods.
The intake you have should be an Edlebrock 2101 aluminum which is also a good unit, keep it.
Drop the emissions if you can, air pump and hoses. Keep the EGR, keep the evap canister.
So far you haven't spent much, lets fix that.
Tranny: 2004R definately. It has a better gear set and over drive, see where that gets you before gearing mods in the rear end, I built mine for under $900
Bumpier cam, many choices out there full kits under $200
That will get oyu down the road MUCH quicker.
Now for some more $$
Heads, get the best you can afford, Vortec will require a new intake..$1000 or so
AFR 180 street heads are $1500 assembled and will allow more aggresive cam
See what all that does for you.
Now the rear end: The pumpkin is weak on the 80 to 82, very few mods you can do to make it better. The solution is an Iron unit from an earlier year which will require new drive shaft and yokes. HP mods for the iron rear will get you a drive line to handle BIG hp. This is a pricy mod, over $2k, but gives you MANY options for final gearing.
