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Old Nov 19, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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Default Rear ?

Can the seals from a 1975 diff......be replaced without taken the whole rear apart? Tha rear is sitting on my work bench.

Thanks,
Danny
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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Yes but if you do the pinion be sure to chisel mark the nut to the pinion shaft.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 12:13 AM
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Thanks for the reply, but can you explain what you mean by chisel marking the pinion?

Danny
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by hicswa
Thanks for the reply, but can you explain what you mean by chisel marking the pinion?

Danny
Before removing the nut take a chisel and position the blade on the egde of the nut and the shaft at the same time and put a mark on both.When going back rotate the nut back to that position.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 08:38 AM
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Sent you a PM with a how to link on this job.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks for the Information. I downloaded the post you were speaking of Gary. Thanks so much. I have one more question though, the rear did not leak on the bench or when it was installed back in the car still on the lift. It was when I put the car on the ground that the driver side yoke started to leak. Does this sound like a seal issue or something more. Is changing the yoke seals the same as the Pinion?

Thanks Danny
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Danny,
Look real close at the yoke endplay and the housing. It was common for the mid 70's cars to have issue here. If let go too long the endplay will grind into the housing. There is supposed to be a 1/8 boss there, if it's ground away then the yoke will hit the seal and you may loose the housing. Going to that link will show pictures of these for you as well.
Hope that's not it. If you haven't replaces the yoke seals do so and use either CR/SKF or National brand seals only. NAPA used to carry the CR brand.
Let me know what you find. If you want to call with questions about it, just PM me and I'll get you my number.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Gary, when I measured the end play I got about .03 on one side and about .035 on the side that is leaking. There is 65 thousand miles on the rear and I am the original owner so I know how the car was driven. I would just like to try replacing the seals as a start. My skill level can handle that, but, if thats not the fix, I would be a little afraid to do any more than that. Do you know of a good rebuilding source out there. If you do have a source you can PM me if you don't wish to post it on line.
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Old Nov 20, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by hicswa
Gary, when I measured the end play I got about .03 on one side and about .035 on the side that is leaking. There is 65 thousand miles on the rear and I am the original owner so I know how the car was driven. I would just like to try replacing the seals as a start. My skill level can handle that, but, if thats not the fix, I would be a little afraid to do any more than that. Do you know of a good rebuilding source out there. If you do have a source you can PM me if you don't wish to post it on line.
I got GM seals from Muskegon Brake. .030 and .035 are not to bad. If the only issue is the leak I would replace the seal. They also had the hardened tip rebuilt yokes for $65 plus core! Might want to replace them while you have them out. Pretty easy to swap out the sideyokes and seals. With it on the bench it took me about a half hour. Most of that time was spent getting the old gasket scrapped off at the rear cover. If you want to do a total rebuild while it is out Gary is the guy.

Last edited by 63mako; Nov 21, 2007 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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Danny
If all you have is a leak and know the history then by all means replace the seals as Mako said. When you do you can look at the boss on the housing and check it and also measure the yokes from the face to snap ring. You might find they have little wear on them and the play is in the posi. They should be in the .187 rnage +/- .005"
If you need any help just let me know. Good luck
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