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Car tracks to the right and with the wheels off the ground the steering wheel will start a slow right turn. Read the posts and it sounds like minor adjustment to center up the valve. The problem is I can't find any photos of where the adjustment nut is and the repair manual is lacking in their description.
So here's my questions.
1. If I pull the drivers side tire off and look in through the wheel well is the dust cap the shiny round cap facing outward on the end of the valve?
2. Is the adjustment nut behind the dust cap?
3. I have a small leak coming from the cap that I just described so is it time to replace/rebuild the pscv or could that cap just not be seating properly.
Look at the power steering relay valve where the hoses cross from the steering cylinder assembly. There should be a round cap there, remove the cap and there is a treaded stem and a locknut inside. Loosen locknut and adjust stem to center steering.
If you’re only seeing a drip of fluid I would use a turkey baser and a extension hose connected to it and replace the power steering fluid with Valvoline SYN Power Steering Fluid. It is a synthetic blend with conditioners and will mix with regular power steering fluid with no problems. Mine had the same minor drip every now and then and this cured the problem. I flushed the system 3 times with the new fluid and didn’t use the whole quart.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by chucktn
Car tracks to the right and with the wheels off the ground the steering wheel will start a slow right turn. Read the posts and it sounds like minor adjustment to center up the valve. The problem is I can't find any photos of where the adjustment nut is and the repair manual is lacking in their description.
So here's my questions.
1. If I pull the drivers side tire off and look in through the wheel well is the dust cap the shiny round cap facing outward on the end of the valve?
2. Is the adjustment nut behind the dust cap?
You got it. Your symptoms are typical of a misadjusted valve, so just give it a few tweaks. You usually have to do the process a few times before you get it just right, so leave the dust cap off until you're all done road testing.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
That's a good way to do it. However, there is a certrain "dead range" in the middle of the adjustment where the wheels will not start to turn on their own for about 1/2 turn of the adjuster, so you have to "feel" where the center point is and do a little tweaking from there.
I go one step further and disconnect the slave cylinder rod from the frame mount and adjust the control valve till there is no movement in the rod. Then reconnect.
Also verify your alignment (caster,camber and toe) once the control valve issue is corrected.