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Some old dude with a 66 bib block told me I could change the bearings with the ingine in my car.... He used to be an old school drag racer and restores vette and camaros for his retirement.. he said I'd be able to do it in one evening? does that sound realistic or a good Idea?
hmmm,
It's a huge PIA, you have to pick the motor up, take everything off the front, drop the pan, take the rod caps off, take the crank out, If changing the bearings, you really need to have the rods resized, and the crank ground, if they are spun now and you dont do the machine work, you'll spin them again
I don't think I have any bearings that are spun.. Just low oil pressure issues...
Is it easier to pull the engine?
Originally Posted by l88rocket
It's a huge PIA, you have to pick the motor up, take everything off the front, drop the pan, take the rod caps off, take the crank out, If changing the bearings, you really need to have the rods resized, and the crank ground, if they are spun now and you dont do the machine work, you'll spin them again
Some old dude with a 66 bib block told me I could change the bearings with the ingine in my car.... He used to be an old school drag racer and restores vette and camaros for his retirement.. he said I'd be able to do it in one evening? does that sound realistic or a good Idea?
hmmm,
Sure you can and 1 evening is possible.If you put in what came out.
Iv'e done this job before and it's not that bad. You will need to disconnect the idler arm and remove the starter in order to drop the oil pan. Then just remove the caps one at a time. To get the upper half of each bearing out you need to tap one side with a small screwdriver to start it and then rotate it out the other side. Just be very careful not to nick the crank. Also, while you're in there you can either replace the oil pump or install a high pressure spring in it. As long as there is no damage to the crank that should solve your oil pressure problems.
Iv'e done this job before and it's not that bad. You will need to disconnect the idler arm and remove the starter in order to drop the oil pan. Then just remove the caps one at a time. To get the upper half of each bearing out you need to tap one side with a small screwdriver to start it and then rotate it out the other side. Just be very careful not to nick the crank. Also, while you're in there you can either replace the oil pump or install a high pressure spring in it. As long as there is no damage to the crank that should solve your oil pressure problems.
MonzRC got it right.....not all that HARD, just gotta be carefull though....I did the rod bearings in a junkyard short block for my wife's Escort the other day...takes your time, check everyone out, and use assy lube for breakin....
tedious, but you need drop the crank a few MM...not a biggie with all the rods and mains outta there...just make sure to use lotsa assy lube...
It is referred to as a Inframe Overhaul, Upper or Lower.....However in regardes to the time required....I allways Double The Time, that I think is required to complete a task....
It is referred to as a Inframe Overhaul, Upper or Lower.....However in regardes to the time required....I allways Double The Time, that I think is required to complete a task....
So if my compression seems good... and this resolves my oil pressure issue (I'm paranoid to put heads on the thing with 25 psi hot oil pressure) The I can put some mild heads on and finish my exhaust plans and use the engine I already have??
i did it in a 318 mopar and it was done in one afternoon
and that included plastic gauging to make sure they were
all within tolerence.
that was 10 years ago and as of last year the engine was
still making 1/4 mile passes at englishtown in an old dodge pickup.
Well I suppose the most stressful part would be to not damage the crank... and if I did I guess I'd just have to pull the engine and have her done over.......hehehehe
I suppose it's a win win hehehehehe
........................................ ...........
Any other advise?
thanks
Well I suppose the most stressful part would be to not damage the crank... and if I did I guess I'd just have to pull the engine and have her done over.......hehehehe
I suppose it's a win win hehehehehe
........................................ ...........
Any other advise?
thanks
From: Melbourne, Fla. 6 months- New Middletown, Ohio 6 months
Originally Posted by DWncchs
The top bearing rotates out only 1 way.
Good point, rotate the upper bearing so that the notch side comes out first. I did it in my 70 vette years ago with no problem. I used stock bearings and did plastigage them to see how I was clearance wise. I was in spec but on the top end with stock bearings.
If you try to be too perfect on your clearances with a crank and rods that have not been ground or resized you could have issues as was stated earlier.
What brand/type bearings do I need for a stock 77?
thanks
Once you pull the cap you will se a small tab on one side of the bearing that locks it into the rod. that is the side that it comes out from. I have done this before also and it isn't to bad. Rings will be the next thing to go out though and with my luck it would be next week.
If you try to be too perfect on your clearances with a crank and rods that have not been ground or resized you could have issues as was stated earlier.
What do you mean "try to be perfect? arent the torq specs just a static figure?
thanks
timg
if my engine is indeed all originla (and I'm fairly certain it is)
all I need are standard bearings right? what brand is best?
You say you're changing bearings because of "low" oil pressure. Then you indicate that you have 25 psi "hot". Is that at idle or revved up? If you have 10 psi at idle and 25 psi when revved, you may just need to go to a heavier oil or to a higher pressure oil pump spring; the bearings may have nothing wrong with them. In any case, if you are going to start down the "bearing change" route, drop the oil pan and remove one bearing cap to see what the bearings look like before you pull your engine. You may just be wasting your time.
The car has about 82k on it and the oil pressure is generally on the first "line" of my gauge.... the one at 10:00 o'clock...
how many psi is that? whe it is rewved it does go up.. it never reaches
over 12:30...
should I simply try thicker oil?
or perhaps synthetic?
thanks
timg
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