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I Hate U-Joints

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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 10:05 PM
  #1  
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Default I Hate U-Joints

Just wanted to get this off my chest. I spent 3+ hours this afternoon removing the U-joints from the half shafts of the 72. Those greasy, rusty, 35-year-old joints don't come out easily. I don't think I caused any permanent damage to either the halfshafts or myself.



Rick B.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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Did you use a bench vise and sockets?
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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the best thing is that there are six of them to look forward to....
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 10:45 PM
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Cutting them saves a lot of time and effort.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 11:15 PM
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I used to do farm work, and I was always changing them on the PTO shafts. I used the vise and socket method. Put a large socket on one end, and small socket on the the other. Knock out the clips, and squeze in the vise pushing it into the bigger socket. I became very proficiant at it.

Sometimes when they were very old and rusted in there, I cut them in half with a torch. I don't really recomend that, because the remaining grease would catch fire. It was also to hot to touch for a few minutes. It would have been smarter to use a grinder with a cutting wheel, but I was young...
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 05:09 AM
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me too !! just out of curiosity how much HP can u joints handle. i have the ones with the grease nipples. they just look soo weak with those tiny little saddles and two bolts holding each one on .
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette
Just wanted to get this off my chest. I spent 3+ hours this afternoon removing the U-joints from the half shafts of the 72. Those greasy, rusty, 35-year-old joints don't come out easily. I don't think I caused any permanent damage to either the halfshafts or myself.



Rick B.
If you buy Chineese u-joints, your going to have just as much fin putting them back in!!!!
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 08:01 AM
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Be careful when removing the U-joint bearings from the wheel flange! Too much pressure on the flange (you should be using sockets on the bearing heads only) can bend/damage the flange thus making the installation of the new bearings difficult. I just replaced burnt bearings on my '72, and found that the previous owner/mechanic must have pressed the new bearings on incorrectly and damaged the flange. The flange had been squeezed in. When I installed the new bearings, the holding clips would not fit into the grooves, and I noticed the old clips had been filed down to make them thinner so they would fit- not a good idea. Use a penetrating oil prior to removal of the old ones.
Jim
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JimT
Be careful when removing the U-joint bearings from the wheel flange! Too much pressure on the flange (you should be using sockets on the bearing heads only) can bend/damage the flange thus making the installation of the new bearings difficult. I just replaced burnt bearings on my '72, and found that the previous owner/mechanic must have pressed the new bearings on incorrectly and damaged the flange. The flange had been squeezed in. When I installed the new bearings, the holding clips would not fit into the grooves, and I noticed the old clips had been filed down to make them thinner so they would fit- not a good idea. Use a penetrating oil prior to removal of the old ones.
Jim
If you can find an old spindle flange to bolt to the wheel flange while removing the u-joint, you greatly lower the risk of messing up your wheel flange. I have an old one that is no good that I use for this very thing.

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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rcread
Did you use a bench vise and sockets?
I rented the ball joint press from Autozone. Turns out it works fine for u-joints also. The hole in the C-Clamp is just big enough for the cup to fit into as it comes out. I still had to use my 5' pipe on the wrench to get the cups to break free.



Rick B.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by CrossedFlags77
If you can find an old spindle flange to bolt to the wheel flange while removing the u-joint, you greatly lower the risk of messing up your wheel flange. I have an old one that is no good that I use for this very thing.

I had the spindle flanges off because I'm installing rebuilt trailing arms so I bolted them on to support the other flange. One of the halfshafts had beeen rebuilt before so I'm hoping the flange wasn't bent by the previous rebuild.



Rick B.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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10 or 20 ton hydro press pushes them right out. I grease them to go back in. Kind of like the above posters vice idea
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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I also use a press since it averages 10 tons to drive out a rusted U-joint.

I built a fixture to keep the flange from bending, since that time (30,000 miles) I have only recently had the first one fail. The fixture is made of 1 1/2 steel forming a right angle, with a relief to pilot the flange.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
10 or 20 ton hydro press pushes them right out. I grease them to go back in. Kind of like the above posters vice idea
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
10 or 20 ton hydro press pushes them right out. I grease them to go back in. Kind of like the above posters vice idea
Polishing the inside of the flange bore with a flap wheel in a Dremel helps a lot, too. (Thanks to Norval for that tidbit. )
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 11:57 PM
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Putting U-Joints in the freezer the day before(or even an hour)prior to installation is another tip. heating the yoke slightly makes it go even smoother
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