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Just wanted to get this off my chest. I spent 3+ hours this afternoon removing the U-joints from the half shafts of the 72. Those greasy, rusty, 35-year-old joints don't come out easily. I don't think I caused any permanent damage to either the halfshafts or myself.
I used to do farm work, and I was always changing them on the PTO shafts. I used the vise and socket method. Put a large socket on one end, and small socket on the the other. Knock out the clips, and squeze in the vise pushing it into the bigger socket. I became very proficiant at it.
Sometimes when they were very old and rusted in there, I cut them in half with a torch. I don't really recomend that, because the remaining grease would catch fire. It was also to hot to touch for a few minutes. It would have been smarter to use a grinder with a cutting wheel, but I was young...
me too !! just out of curiosity how much HP can u joints handle. i have the ones with the grease nipples. they just look soo weak with those tiny little saddles and two bolts holding each one on .
Just wanted to get this off my chest. I spent 3+ hours this afternoon removing the U-joints from the half shafts of the 72. Those greasy, rusty, 35-year-old joints don't come out easily. I don't think I caused any permanent damage to either the halfshafts or myself.
Rick B.
If you buy Chineese u-joints, your going to have just as much fin putting them back in!!!!
Be careful when removing the U-joint bearings from the wheel flange! Too much pressure on the flange (you should be using sockets on the bearing heads only) can bend/damage the flange thus making the installation of the new bearings difficult. I just replaced burnt bearings on my '72, and found that the previous owner/mechanic must have pressed the new bearings on incorrectly and damaged the flange. The flange had been squeezed in. When I installed the new bearings, the holding clips would not fit into the grooves, and I noticed the old clips had been filed down to make them thinner so they would fit- not a good idea. Use a penetrating oil prior to removal of the old ones.
Jim
Be careful when removing the U-joint bearings from the wheel flange! Too much pressure on the flange (you should be using sockets on the bearing heads only) can bend/damage the flange thus making the installation of the new bearings difficult. I just replaced burnt bearings on my '72, and found that the previous owner/mechanic must have pressed the new bearings on incorrectly and damaged the flange. The flange had been squeezed in. When I installed the new bearings, the holding clips would not fit into the grooves, and I noticed the old clips had been filed down to make them thinner so they would fit- not a good idea. Use a penetrating oil prior to removal of the old ones.
Jim
If you can find an old spindle flange to bolt to the wheel flange while removing the u-joint, you greatly lower the risk of messing up your wheel flange. I have an old one that is no good that I use for this very thing.
I rented the ball joint press from Autozone. Turns out it works fine for u-joints also. The hole in the C-Clamp is just big enough for the cup to fit into as it comes out. I still had to use my 5' pipe on the wrench to get the cups to break free.
If you can find an old spindle flange to bolt to the wheel flange while removing the u-joint, you greatly lower the risk of messing up your wheel flange. I have an old one that is no good that I use for this very thing.
I had the spindle flanges off because I'm installing rebuilt trailing arms so I bolted them on to support the other flange. One of the halfshafts had beeen rebuilt before so I'm hoping the flange wasn't bent by the previous rebuild.
I also use a press since it averages 10 tons to drive out a rusted U-joint.
I built a fixture to keep the flange from bending, since that time (30,000 miles) I have only recently had the first one fail. The fixture is made of 1 1/2 steel forming a right angle, with a relief to pilot the flange.
Putting U-Joints in the freezer the day before(or even an hour)prior to installation is another tip. heating the yoke slightly makes it go even smoother