I attached the HEI module to a small aluminum heatsink, and then just used a small machine screw to bolt the setup on the inside of the shielding (there was already a small unused hole in the shielding), pretty much in the open volume between the distributor and the coil.

I'm not terribly familiar with that particular distributor you have. Does it have a module bolted to the bottom of the housing, or does it just have the variable reluctance sensor in it and no module?

 

I did. It's called a search function.

Try it sometime, it works great.

Thanks

 

My distributor is a stock Corvette tach drive that was rebuilt by Dave's HEI.

It was shipped to me from Dave with the module separate from the distributor body.

I don't know if there is room to mount the module underneath the distributor body (as shown in certain examples on Dave's website), which I why inquired where you mounted your module.

I like the way you described how you did yours. Where would I get an aluminum heat sink?

Any other tips/trick you'd care to share?

Thanks

 

I agree that there is no power increase with a Electronic conversion vs. a properly set up points system.....BUT.....you can't leave the key on with points and in any system I have ever converted....it just starts easier.
It is 50-50 with points if you forget and leave the key forward. If it is off the hi side of the cam....it will smoke the contacts in no time.

BTW...I had a Mallory conversion with Mallory coil in my 69' Tri-Power and it performed flawlessly.

Jebby

 

No special tips or tricks, just make sure you use heat sink compound (not dielectric grease) on the module, and make sure you've got a low (zero) resistance ignition wire feeding the HEI module.

Good luck!

 

Thank you for the detailed response.

While going over Dave's parts & install instructions, I noticed that his external module actually has an aluminum base plate bolted to it. Perhaps this is his version of a heat sink?

Does anyone know the part# for these 4-prong modules? It must be an off-the-shelf GM part, correct?

I would feel better if I were carrying a spare.........

Thanks, once more.

 

I can't imagine anything more common than a Chebby engine in a junkyard only 50 billion of them made over 1/2 a century....and 1/2 of THAT had HEI in them.....go fish.....

OLD junkyard rodder here......for over 1/2 a century.....

 

It would probably cost less to buy an entire junkyard HEI distributor and retrieve the module than buy a spare (brand X) module at a parts store. And, the GM distributor is most likely going to have a genuine Delco module in it.

 

If you don't go to the larger gap along with converting to HEI, does that create any problem, or are you just missing out on some of the benefit of HEI?

In other words, I know that the HEI system CAN suppprt the larger spark plug gap, but does it REQUIRE the larger gap. Just curious.

SI

 

Remember, an HEI is a high energy ignition, not necessarily a high voltage ignition. The extra energy in an HEI comes in handy for increased plug life, as the extra energy is able to compensate for fouled or worn plugs.

The secondary voltage is primarily set by the plug gap size and the compression pressure, not by the ignition system. The emissions engines had low compression, so opening up the plug gap still resulted in modest plug arcover voltages (comparable to standard smaller gap on higher compression engines).

Most guys stick with the standard .035" plug gap (with most any ignition system) as that seems to be the size that just keeps system problems to a minimum.

 

Folks go to electronic ignition systems for two [primary] reasons:

1) they believe that a system with higher spark energy POTENTIAL will make their car more powerful {rarely true...only on very high-performance setups};

2) they believe that an electronic ignition system is more reliable. Interestingly, this is a "mixed bag" situation. While the electronic system requires LESS MAINTENANCE, being more reliable depends on your definition of "reliable". A properly setup points system will run for several thousand miles without need for maintenance or adjustment. And proper maintenance and adjustment for a points system will take an experience person about 1/2 hour. In addition, the points system will let you know when it needs maintenance and/or adjustment with minor ignition misses; and it will still run a long time...reasonably well...in that state. The electronic ignition system, however, will give you no warning when it is about to fail; IT JUST QUITS and leaves you on the side of the road. Anyone having an HEI unit and NOT carrying a spare HEI ignition module can be considered foolish. My experience indicates that they fail (due to heat cycling and vibration fatigue) about every 3-5 years.

If you know the particulars of each type of ignition system, you can choose the one best for you. I prefer the points system because of simplicity, robustness of a working system, and readily available parts.

 

There's so much nonsense in your post, I don't know where to start.

 

Gee.... Don't leave me hanging. I just love it when @ssho..s take potshots at other folks posts, instead of just stating their own views.

Please. Grace us with your perspective.