When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Since I now have it all in the floor, I have decided to go ahead and change all the u-joints. Any recommendations on which to go with, greasable or non-greasable? Also a brand name and supplier would help, none of the local parts houses here have enough of them in stock to sell me what i need in a name I recognize.
Also looking at tapping a hole in the diff cover and putting a plug in. Anybody done this and had a bad result?
why do you drill a hole and plug it in a diff? is that so you can drain it and refill easier?
i have greasable uni,s in mine. they have been going strong for 2 years now . i cant remember what brand they were but i only give them grease every 6 months. i have a 450 hp motor and flog the hell out of it and nothing has broken yet so they must be fairly strong.i do wonder sometimes how they do hold up especially with that little saddle and two small allen keys bolts holding them in place. it just looks so weak to me.
Strange Engineering makes a high impact 1330 and 1350 U-joint. A little pricey but since I am not going with the 1480 series that is what I plan on. Brute Force solids worked real good behind my other motor.
Neapcos are very good. Van Steel sells these & maybe Napa.
Never go with greaseables. Even if you ignore the strength issues quality non-greasables are good for 100,000 miles. Greasables state that they must be greased every 5000 miles. You judge where your time is best spent.
Spicers are excellent, except they have gone to a hard plastic seal that is extremely easy to break.
Neapcos are very good. Van Steel sells these & maybe Napa.
Never go with greaseables. Even if you ignore the strength issues quality non-greasables are good for 100,000 miles. Greasables state that they must be greased every 5000 miles. You judge where your time is best spent.
Spicers are excellent, except they have gone to a hard plastic seal that is extremely easy to break.
I think the Brute Force are made by Neapco. Solids are the only way to go. Got my Brute Force u-joints at AutoZone believe it or not. $17 ea.
I was leaning to the non greasables, reason being, when I bought the car I got under it to do a lube job and the alemites were missing in every single ujoint. They were all crudded up. Thanks for all the input, I am checking some sources right now...
I was leaning to the non greasables, reason being, when I bought the car I got under it to do a lube job and the alemites were missing in every single ujoint. They were all crudded up. Thanks for all the input, I am checking some sources right now...
brute force cheap and you can get them at any auto zone no shipping charges like everything else you need
I just tried the Spicer joints and had nothing but problems with the black plastic seals breaking. It's very frustrating spending $150 for the "best" u joints and they didn't even make it in to my car.
All you really need to distinguish a good joint from a shell we say not as good, is to remove a cap and see if it has small needle bearings. Also a solid cross is stronger than one with a zerk fitting in it. There are not very many U Joint manufacturers still in business as opposed to sellers brands, many are repackaged by the name appearing on the box..
I went by autozone this morning to get some undercoating and asked them about the Brute Force, they are supposed to have them in tomorrow for me to take a look at. Anything bad with these, I saw where they were recommended... I was going to order online but this way I can just carry them back if theres a problem.
I went by autozone this morning to get some undercoating and asked them about the Brute Force, they are supposed to have them in tomorrow for me to take a look at. Anything bad with these, I saw where they were recommended... I was going to order online but this way I can just carry them back if theres a problem.
Spicer. seen the pictures of the so called brute force ones? look cast. The spicers look drop forged. getting these installed now. Think GTR1999 had a brute force tear in half on one of his.
I went by autozone this morning to get some undercoating and asked them about the Brute Force, they are supposed to have them in tomorrow for me to take a look at. Anything bad with these, I saw where they were recommended... I was going to order online but this way I can just carry them back if theres a problem.
If you install them correctly I doubt you'll have a problem either way
[QUOTE=RunningMan373;1563239798]Spicer. seen the pictures of the so called brute force ones? look cast. The spicers look drop forged. getting these installed now. Think GTR1999 had a brute force tear in half on one of his.
That was a 1980 NAPA zerked joint that cracked in 1/2 on a 3k shift- 18k miles. Do a search on my handle and you may find the pictures of go to the other forum they're posted there. I'll be installing new Spicers in a set of 3" shafts this week. I still use them.