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Block sanding

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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 12:57 PM
  #1  
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Default Block sanding

Starting new paint job on my 74 coupe. Paint is stripped with
razor blade. Am fitting doors, and glass bumbers right now.
Next will be gitting the body ready. What is the best way to block
sand it. As this is my first project of this type. Have several nicks
from razor and some spider web cracks. I think I should have do this
type of project 25yrs sooner. I am going on 67, and doing everything
my self.

Thanks glassman74
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 03:27 PM
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I'm not quite clear on what you mean by what is the best way to block sand it? Are you asking for types of blocks to use, grits of paper or technique?

Just a few starting suggestions, if you haven't done this before, maybe a good video with another perspective is a good idea.

You'll need several types of blocks and a nice longboard. The hard foam blocks (Durablocks) are handy; http://www.dura-block.com/durablockline.html and relatively inexpensive, especially a tear drop shaped one for various curved parts of the body and a few paint sticks for tight areas. I also like the cylinder shaped one for these cars and the smaller rectangular one. Never use your hand to back up paper.

I'd also buy self adhesive paper by the roll. Grit depends on how aggressive you want to get, 150 would be a good starting point. If you have some real bad areas, you may need to start with some 80 grit and go up.

You may also want to use a spray can of SEM Guide Coat black to lightly spray the area before sanding. When sanding, the low spots will show up as painted areas.

Always sand at a 45 degree angle in one direction and then go back over the area coming from the other direction, never vertical or horizontal, start at body lines so you don't round them off when you pass over them.

Good luck, its a lot of work but rewarding.

Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Dec 25, 2007 at 08:59 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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Everything Scott said is correct. How bad is the spider webbing and your razor blade gouges? If they are really bad, they will have to be addressed and repaired first before trying to sand them out or otherwise you run the risk of going too deep into the factory glass. Do you have any pictures you can post?
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 11:15 PM
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Depending upon the density of the spider web cracks, it may be easier to dish grind that area and lay in new mat with epoxy resin rather than V-notch them all and glass them. Pics or a better description would be good.

If you have a digital camera and do not use a hosting site, you can email me pics at my Blog address and I'll post them in the "Reader's Cars" section.

http://blog.scottsvettetalk.com/

Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Dec 26, 2007 at 08:47 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
I'm not quite clear on what you mean by what is the best way to block sand it? Are you asking for types of blocks to use, grits of paper or technique?

Just a few starting suggestions, if you haven't done this before, maybe a good video with another perspective is a good idea.

You'll need several types of blocks and a nice longboard. The hard foam blocks (Durablocks) are handy; http://www.dura-block.com/durablockline.html and relatively inexpensive, especially a tear drop shaped one for various curved parts of the body and a few paint sticks for tight areas. I also like the cylinder shaped one for these cars and the smaller rectangular one. Never use your hand to back up paper.

I'd also buy self adhesive paper by the roll. Grit depends on how aggressive you want to get, 150 would be a good starting point. If you have some real bad areas, you may need to start with some 80 grit and go up.

You may also want to use a spray can of SEM Guide Coat black to lightly spray the area before sanding. When sanding, the low spots will show up as painted areas.

Always sand at a 45 degree angle in one direction and then go back over the area coming from the other direction, never vertical or horizontal, start at body lines so you don't round them off when you pass over them.

Good luck, its a lot of work but rewarding.
Scott thanks for info. It was the type of blocks and direction.
glassman74
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
Everything Scott said is correct. How bad is the spider webbing and your razor blade gouges? If they are really bad, they will have to be addressed and repaired first before trying to sand them out or otherwise you run the risk of going too deep into the factory glass. Do you have any pictures you can post?
Thanks for the help. glassman74
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 10:54 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
Depending upon the density of the spider web cracks, it may be easier to dish grind that area and lay in new mat with epoxy resin rather than V-notch them all and glass them. Pics or a better description would be good.

If you have a digital camera and do not use a hosting site, you can email me pics at my Blog address and I'll post them in the "Reader's Cars" section.

http://blog.scottsvettetalk.com/
Scott,
Have pixs. Need to down load. Will send to address given. May I send
pixs of project also? thanks again. glassman74
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 11:09 PM
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Yep, send the project pics too.
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