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I'll bet that bending them strait will not allow for the proper camber adjustment in the rear.
You're probably due for a complete overhaul of all bushings in the rear. You should also check your axel hubs at the differential for excess play.
Yes they can. Most of them were bent because they could not get any more adjustment from the rods. Usually a sign of worn suspension components.
Straightening is only one piece of the problem. I would guess you have some issues with your rear suspension and the rods were bent to compensate for the worn components.
It would be a good idea to have the rear looked at by a professional if you don't know what you're looking for.
The only reason I can think of to bend the strut rod is to make them shorter but from looking at them, it appears that who ever bent them didn't understand how to adjust them because the adjusters are in a position to maximize the length of the strut rods if I am looking at this correctly.
The mounting holes are elongated and the strut rods are mounted as far inboard as possible with the adjusters mounted as far outboard as possible. If I wanted to shorten the strut rods, I think I'd turn the adjusters 90 degrees out so they point either straight up or straight down.
You should also check your axel hubs at the differential for excess play.
Garys 68, I was not able to detect any play in the axel hubs either rotationally, inward/outward or up/down.
When I first got the car a year ago September I took it to my local Chevy dealer for a once over and the only thing they found in the rear end was a slight up/down movement in the right wheel bearing. They said it would need attention at some point but not immediately.
Since I knew that I would be spending most of the time fixing things the first year or so rather than driving it I elected to delay that particular repair.
Other than that the only thing that is obvious is the worn bushings and the bent strut rods.
My car had bent strut rods when I got it. I think people don't understand how to really align the car and / or the adjusting cams get rusted / frozen up and they can't be bothered doing it the "right" way. Just stump up a little cash and go with the adjustable ones from VBP. The're great.
Well that's good news. You may get lucky and all the stuff may have been replaced after the rods were bent.
I'm guessing it's a 72? If so the original rubber bushings would probably be going bad if they had not been replaced at some time.
Buy new rods with bushings and have them replaced at the same time you have it aligned and everything checked.
when those camber bolts rust up, they can be a real pain to get out. I managed to break off both the head and nut side of one of mine taking it apart. I was replacing them with VB+P strut rods so I didn't really care, but I can see how an alignment shop wouldn't want to touch them
Well, all, it looks like a weak spring is what they were trying to compensate for. I had a friend under the car to look it over and he noticed 1 inch spacers on both of the spring bolts.
Well, that's a lot cheaper and easier than an entire rear suspension rebuild.
One note, when replacing the rear spring: Do not tighten the 4 bolts that hold the spring to the car while it's on stands. The weight of the car has to be on the tire before they are completely tightened.
I think this is typical Bubba fix for older Vettes. As a metal spring gets older it starts to sag and the rear wheels get too much negative camber. The easiest way to get the camber back is too take a big hammer and bend the bars specially if all the adjustment has been taken out or the bolts are rusted. A new spring and new strut bars will fix this. This is the perfect time to go through the whole rear suspension and 0 time it.