Need some differential advice
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Need some differential advice
I have a '80 Vette that is leaking differential fluild from the side yokes (both sides) I rebuilt the rear suspension several years ago but did not mess with the differential. So dropping the differential should be no problem. Question is what are the steps once I get it on the bench. Any special tools needed to get the yokes out? Can the yoke endplay cause the seals to go bad? I am thinking that the seals are leaking due to age and the fact the car does not get driven very much.
Thanks
John
Thanks
John
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,357
Likes: 427
From: Seattle Area WA
The yokes are only held in place by C-clips so a good snap ring pliers are a must. If the ends of the yokes are mushroomed at all, you may have to do some prying or even a little dremel grinding to clean the mushroomed area up in order to slide the yokes out.
How much end play do you have, it should be minimal. If the yokes have a lot of axial play as in bad yoke bearings, that would cause wear on the seals.
How much end play do you have, it should be minimal. If the yokes have a lot of axial play as in bad yoke bearings, that would cause wear on the seals.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Not sure about the endplay, have not got under there and checked it out yet.
Do I have to take anything out of the differential to get to the snap rings or can they be accessed after the differential cover is removed? I have a good set of snap ring plyers, but I am having problems invisioning how to get a pair of snap ring plyers in position to remove the rings.
Do I have to take anything out of the differential to get to the snap rings or can they be accessed after the differential cover is removed? I have a good set of snap ring plyers, but I am having problems invisioning how to get a pair of snap ring plyers in position to remove the rings.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The 80-82 rear end side yokes do not wear out nearly as fast as the 1963-1979 style yokes do. My guess is that your seals are dried out and just need to be replaced.
As with the 1963-1979 style yoke, the end of the yoke will have a beveled edge on it that should be about 1/8 inch. If this edge is showing wear then you might consider replacing the yoke.
Here is a picture of the edge that I’m talking about. If this edge is there and the snap ring is still present you should only replace the side seals.
I realize this yoke and instructions are from a 1963-1979 and I'm only using this as a reference. The 1980-1982 yokes were a fine spline design but were constructed in about the same fashion. If the tip is worn off when you remove them then yes you have a problem. For the yoke shield to wear in to the side of the carrier you almost have to have the end worn off the yoke down to the snap ring groove.
As with the 1963-1979 style yoke, the end of the yoke will have a beveled edge on it that should be about 1/8 inch. If this edge is showing wear then you might consider replacing the yoke.
Here is a picture of the edge that I’m talking about. If this edge is there and the snap ring is still present you should only replace the side seals.
I realize this yoke and instructions are from a 1963-1979 and I'm only using this as a reference. The 1980-1982 yokes were a fine spline design but were constructed in about the same fashion. If the tip is worn off when you remove them then yes you have a problem. For the yoke shield to wear in to the side of the carrier you almost have to have the end worn off the yoke down to the snap ring groove.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 26, 2007 at 09:17 PM.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Great information!!! I think I will tear it down tonight and work on it over the weekend. I will give an update once I determine what I find out.
I just moved into my new house which has a attached 5 car garage with heated floors, 10,000 lb lift, built-in compressed air and all kinds of other little perks like high speed internet, bathroom, beer cooler and so on. More like a living room with cars in it. So I am looking forward to tearing into the Vette in the new place.
Thanks again.
I just moved into my new house which has a attached 5 car garage with heated floors, 10,000 lb lift, built-in compressed air and all kinds of other little perks like high speed internet, bathroom, beer cooler and so on. More like a living room with cars in it. So I am looking forward to tearing into the Vette in the new place.
Thanks again.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 12
From: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
I'm not trying to steal this thread but I will have to make decisions about my 68 3.7 Posi. rear end soon too as I have the body off now. I'm hoping I don't have to rebuild it but will do whatever I have to do. What else do I need to know or check to determine whether or not I need to rebuild it?
Again, not trying to steal the thread but I believe the poster has the same general questions.
Again, not trying to steal the thread but I believe the poster has the same general questions.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 910
Likes: 20
From: Shorewood IL
[QUOTE=fostervette;1563333430]
I just moved into my new house which has a attached 5 car garage with heated floors, 10,000 lb lift, built-in compressed air and all kinds of other little perks like high speed internet, bathroom, beer cooler and so on. More like a living room with cars in it.
QUOTE]
Holy Smokes!!
Lets see some pictures!
I just moved into my new house which has a attached 5 car garage with heated floors, 10,000 lb lift, built-in compressed air and all kinds of other little perks like high speed internet, bathroom, beer cooler and so on. More like a living room with cars in it.
QUOTE]
Holy Smokes!!
Lets see some pictures!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,357
Likes: 427
From: Seattle Area WA
Al,
One of the first things to inspect is how much end play do the yokes have. Anything much more than 1/8" should be reason to take the cover off for inspection. The wear can be yokes, posi clutch pack or combination of both. It also won't hurt to remove the cover and do a visual anyway, looking for cracks in the posi carrier.
One of the first things to inspect is how much end play do the yokes have. Anything much more than 1/8" should be reason to take the cover off for inspection. The wear can be yokes, posi clutch pack or combination of both. It also won't hurt to remove the cover and do a visual anyway, looking for cracks in the posi carrier.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 12
From: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
Scott, you always have good answers! That sounds reasonable. I'll do that, thanks!
Al,
One of the first things to inspect is how much end play do the yokes have. Anything much more than 1/8" should be reason to take the cover off for inspection. The wear can be yokes, posi clutch pack or combination of both. It also won't hurt to remove the cover and do a visual anyway, looking for cracks in the posi carrier.
One of the first things to inspect is how much end play do the yokes have. Anything much more than 1/8" should be reason to take the cover off for inspection. The wear can be yokes, posi clutch pack or combination of both. It also won't hurt to remove the cover and do a visual anyway, looking for cracks in the posi carrier.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,987
From: Connecticut, USA
For the yoke endplay I don't like .125"- too much. Now for the 80-82 I'm not sure about the face dimension as I don't touch those but the 63-79's should be .180-.187" and the endplay kept under the .050 range.
I setup new yokes with a custom posi build to .005-.010. Just replacing a yoke with a rebuilt one will not get you there in 9 out of 10 times. The only way is to properly build the posi and that is a whole different game.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,357
Likes: 427
From: Seattle Area WA
I totally agree Gary, by the time you have .125" it's time to investigate things really close. Good point on the ready sleeve repair too, lots of folks don't know about those for this application or the drive shaft yoke application.
I followed Gary R's paper on differential rebuilding along with the GM shop manual, and my resulting yoke end play was an acceptible .008" and .010" when completed. It was a long tedious job, but very satisfying.
I followed Gary R's paper on differential rebuilding along with the GM shop manual, and my resulting yoke end play was an acceptible .008" and .010" when completed. It was a long tedious job, but very satisfying.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=baja216;1563333685]
These are not very good pics. This is the three car portion of the shop. There is another two car area on the other side of the brick wall which still has stuff from the move in it so no pics of that area.
I just moved into my new house which has a attached 5 car garage with heated floors, 10,000 lb lift, built-in compressed air and all kinds of other little perks like high speed internet, bathroom, beer cooler and so on. More like a living room with cars in it.
QUOTE]
Holy Smokes!!
Lets see some pictures!
QUOTE]
Holy Smokes!!
Lets see some pictures!
These are not very good pics. This is the three car portion of the shop. There is another two car area on the other side of the brick wall which still has stuff from the move in it so no pics of that area.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,912
Likes: 12
From: Schaumburg (Chicago) Illinois
Nice, I need at least a 4 car too. Hopefully some day. You need 2 car spots just to tear the car apart. Then at least 2 more for tools and a little room to work. And that assumes all my non-toy cars sit outside (including the wifes). And this is Chicago so she is pretty supportive and good about things!
[QUOTE=fostervette;1563347975]
[QUOTE=fostervette;1563347975]
