Wheel studs
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Wheel studs
I got set of wheels with 4 1/2" backspacing. They are 1/2" further in than the stock 4" backspacing that the inside of the rear tires touch the tips of the rear leaf spring. I got 1/2" wheel spacers to push the wheel out. Now I need longer studs.
Can someone tell me if the specs on these studs I found on Ebay work?
How much work is there to replace the rear wheel studs?
Thanks!
RON
12x1.5 thread
2 1/4" in total length
knurl diameter is .504"
knurl length is .340"
head diameter is .615"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...121836968&rd=1
Can someone tell me if the specs on these studs I found on Ebay work?
How much work is there to replace the rear wheel studs?
Thanks!
RON
12x1.5 thread
2 1/4" in total length
knurl diameter is .504"
knurl length is .340"
head diameter is .615"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...121836968&rd=1
Last edited by 82Red; Jan 3, 2008 at 07:04 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Spacers aren't a very safe solution, especially with super-long wheel studs. Much better is to install bolt-on adapters. Your old wheel studs hold the adapter down, and the adapter has new studs spaced between the old ones. Long 7/16" studs spaced out like that would be ripe for breakage. Non-hubcentric wheels would make that even worse.
I'm not sure if the metric studs would require drilling to fit. I installed 1/2" studs when I had everything apart for the benefit of the much greater strength. Drilling the holes square is quite tricky unless you have something like Norval's jig.
Why do you want to go with a Metric thread anyway? Moroso has good SAE thread studs available for a quite inexpensive price through Summit's website.
I have no idea what years might have used an M12 stud from the factory, but it sure wasn't a C3. I'm pretty sure C4s used 1/2" studs for all years. "Compatible with stock lugnuts" - maybe, but not for any Corvette I've worked on.
I'm not sure if the metric studs would require drilling to fit. I installed 1/2" studs when I had everything apart for the benefit of the much greater strength. Drilling the holes square is quite tricky unless you have something like Norval's jig.
Why do you want to go with a Metric thread anyway? Moroso has good SAE thread studs available for a quite inexpensive price through Summit's website.
I have no idea what years might have used an M12 stud from the factory, but it sure wasn't a C3. I'm pretty sure C4s used 1/2" studs for all years. "Compatible with stock lugnuts" - maybe, but not for any Corvette I've worked on.
Last edited by I'm Batman; Jan 3, 2008 at 07:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Thanks for your reponse. All I know is that I am looking for studs that are the same a stock, but 1/2" longer. I have no idea what the stock thread and diameter is. Does anyone here know what it is?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I'm not positive on the stock length or the length of the knurled portion, but the thread is 7/16 (I think coarse). I'd think carefully about spacing anything out on the stock 7/16" studs - they're dinky enough as it is, and they were designed for hubcentric wheels (stock steel and aluminum wheels fit tight to the hub so that it's carrying a lot of the vehicle weight, not the stud). I upgraded to 1/2" studs because my aluminum wheels aren't hubcentric and I didn't want a wheel running away from me. Safety first. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
You want a knurl diameter of 0.580 for direct replacement. I think they had a 0.508" diameter so they are too small. I drill my hubs and spindles for bigger studs in a Bridgeport mill and the job SUCKS! Maybe there is a metric alternative to this but, I haven't found one.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Summit has some 12mm ARP stuff for Mazdas and Dodge Neons while not that much bigger than our 7/16" stuff the ARP material is the BEST! One set was 2.45" long now you just have to find 12mm lug nuts, wheels can certainly be a BI**H! on our old cars at times. Look for ARP wheel studs and find the right knurl diameter (0.580") for your Vette. The Mazda is 0.579 and the Neon is 0.585" so either should work. There is one area that can cause problems, our rear parking brake hardware/shoes can hit on the head of the stud so you may still have some fabrication work to do on the conversion. Make sure you get 20 studs as one kit only has 4 per package.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
You want a knurl diameter of 0.580 for direct replacement. I think they had a 0.508" diameter so they are too small. I drill my hubs and spindles for bigger studs in a Bridgeport mill and the job SUCKS! Maybe there is a metric alternative to this but, I haven't found one.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_30662_-1
Might be a little long in length considering that I really just need an extra .5". I'm not sure what the stock length is.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
You want a knurl diameter of 0.580 for direct replacement. I think they had a 0.508" diameter so they are too small. I drill my hubs and spindles for bigger studs in a Bridgeport mill and the job SUCKS! Maybe there is a metric alternative to this but, I haven't found one.
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 1
Hey thanks for your response. I think I found what I was looking for at Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_30662_-1
Might be a little long in length considering that I really just need an extra .5". I'm not sure what the stock length is.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_30662_-1
Might be a little long in length considering that I really just need an extra .5". I'm not sure what the stock length is.
Most of the Jegs and Summit studs are extra long because some racing rules require open lug nuts and full thread engagement (studs are long enough to be seen).
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 208
From: Loveland, CO
If the spindles are still installed on the car, I think you will have a problem installing longer studs.
I had to really work to get standard length studs in. Had to cut away at the dust shield and then still a tight fit between spindle flange and brake backing plate.
Good luck. Ralph.
I had to really work to get standard length studs in. Had to cut away at the dust shield and then still a tight fit between spindle flange and brake backing plate.
Good luck. Ralph.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Wheel stud removal
Thanks for all your help guys! Well I was finally able to find the wheel studs I needed. Now I am trying to figure out how to remove them - not enough space in the back to puul out. Are the dust covers removeable, or do I have pull out the entire spindle assembly? Which is the easier way? Ralph, what was your experience drilling out a hole in the dust shield?
Also how do I turn the axle? Should both wheels be off the ground?
Also how do I turn the axle? Should both wheels be off the ground?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 208
From: Loveland, CO
I took my 1/4"high speed grinder/carbide bit, and ground a hole about in the 6 oclock position, large enough to get the old stud out and slide in the new one.
Unfortunately the rear dush shield is not removable without taking the spindle assembly apart. Good thinking GM. Actually, my dust shield was so rusty and disreputable looking that I took my tin snips and cut it off all the way around. My grinding slot was fairly easy to get to with most of the shield removed. My bearings had been previously rebuilt and were good and I didn't want to take the whole thing apart. Why somebody put the crappy dust shield back on is beyond me. I understand the dust shields are not than necessary, especially with the tender driving most of our cars get.
Unfortunately the rear dush shield is not removable without taking the spindle assembly apart. Good thinking GM. Actually, my dust shield was so rusty and disreputable looking that I took my tin snips and cut it off all the way around. My grinding slot was fairly easy to get to with most of the shield removed. My bearings had been previously rebuilt and were good and I didn't want to take the whole thing apart. Why somebody put the crappy dust shield back on is beyond me. I understand the dust shields are not than necessary, especially with the tender driving most of our cars get.
