'69 small block 4spd Muncie -- bought it 2 years ago. I drove it a few times per month the first year, but it has sat for about a year while I've been pecking away at small jobs (and playing too much golf in my free time). So now I'm ready to start it back up, and know that it's time to do a tune-up. It didn't really run smooth since I first got it. Engine would surge while coasting in gear, but would stall while coasting in neutral.

Here's what I do know:
Edelbrock 1407 carburetor (with electric choke 1478) -- this was almost brand new with the car -- maybe not tuned correctly?
Edelbrock Performer head
Pertronix Flame Thrower II electronic ignition coil

Here's what I don't know (more than I know!):
(1) where the motor came from (isn't this important for what plugs to use, timing specs, etc.) -- I couldn't find a pad anywhere, but here's the markings I've found: the block is stamped on the rear driver side top "25 GM 3970010" with a little more towards the center a tear drop shape with the letters "N D T" around it; underneath the oil filter there are 3 sets of #'s "371 386 117 N"; and under the fuel pump on the pass front is "28"; also on the rear passenger side top is "3 [space] F 50" can anyone decipher?? or suggest another place to search?

(2) what plugs & wires should I use? What's in there now are Bosch Platinum WR 9FP and they have a LOT of carbon deposit. The wires are yellow with "Hi Temp Super Stock Radio Suppression". Was thinking of just tossing the wires for NGK unless somebody tells me these are high-quality?

(3) I read the post by BarryK on timing and it explained a lot -- should I start there? Does the Flame Thrower change this procedure at all?


I plan to change the oil (Mobil 1 5W 30) and filter (Purolator Pure One) and air cleaner element first, then the plugs (and wires?) and then see if it starts...then adjust timing and carb. Am I on the right track??

Sorry for so many questions & thanks for any help!
Travis

 

I would start with fresh gas. If it's been sitting for a year, that gas probably isn't going to help your cause. I'd siphon it out and put it in another vehicle 5 gals at a time.

Check / replace fuel filter. Very important: check ALL rubber fuel lines for cracks. There's one or two that come off of the steel line to the fuel pump, and also one or two from the gas tank to the steel lines.

Change the plugs. Wires too, if any doubt.

Inspect cap and rotor. If any carbon arcing is found - replace them.

Check all of your hoses and take a look inside your radiator.

Change oil and filter.

Fire it up and start tuning away. Have a timing light, vacuum gauge handy.

Good luck !

ps - if you're standing in front of your car, there should be a stamped VIN number on the left side of the engine in the front. It's right in front of the cylinder head. If there's an area about 3" wide with no numbers on it, then your block has been decked and the number erased. Hopefully not. There's another 3-letter stamp on it that will determine what motor you have (ie hp rating)

 

One of my projects (that I promise to never do again!) was I sealed the gas tank with POR-15 tank sealant; so fresh gas is already a definite part of the plan.

Fuel hoses and filter look new, they were replaced with the carb I think; but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to replace the filter anway, right.

Would you flush the radiator, too?

Will take another look tonight for the VIN stamp...

 

Points, then dwell, then timing. Plugs depend on milage/deposits. Wires depends on insulation condition.

Fresh gas, less than 90 days is prudent.

 

I've got a Caprice motor! What a let down Thanks for the tip on the engine code location. Now how do I find the timing specs to use??

I've never done this before, but I'm pretty sure there's nothing to do with points or dwell since I have the Petronix electronic ignition kit. I removed the distributor cap & rotor, and didn't see any damage or anything that looked burned.

 

The advice I'm providing doesn't sound logical, given that you just bought the car and it has a "newly rebuilt" carb on it. But...here goes..

Remove the carb and distributor; send them to Lars Grimsrud in Colorado (V8fastcars@msn.com); let him rebuild them correctly and dump the electronic ignition; ask Lars to send you his write-ups on setting timing when you get them back; buy a dial-back timing light and a dwell meter. Buy a good brand of plug wires and have them installed on the engine when your "goodies" get back from Lars. Install per his guidance and start driving. The amount of money you will spend doing this (not very much, really) is miniscule compared to the grief you will have trying to tune a car with a worn out distributor and/or poorly set-up carb.

 

Thanks for the advice, and I agree with you based on everything I've read about points vs. electronic ignition...

BUT if I wanted to just get it running smoothly right now with what I've got, (after the routine stuff with gas, oil, plugs) would adjusting timing and tuning carb solve my surging / stalling problems??

 

I would start with the tuning from Barry K's post. No reason to toss the plug wires if they're good. They can be checked with a vom for resistance. I used to work automotive back in the early 80's and only replaced bad parts. My theory, good used is better than new because you already have it, you don't have the labor involved in changing it, or the expense of the new part. The challenge is to find and correct the fault without the excessive parts changing that has given so many mechanics a bad rep. JMHO