I'm tired of constant bleeding!

 

Correct the problem the right way.... true the rotors.

Anyhow, the calipers are not O-ringed- the calipers are the same regardless of which seals you use.
The non-stock pistons are o-ringed.

I'm sure someone will post a web site or a source for "Zero Tolerance" pistons.
Their ads are all over the place.

 

jsimpson,
Tom454 is correct you can fix the problem with a resurfacing (or replacing) of the rotors or change to Zero Tolerance or Vette Brake, o-ring pistons (two different companies! one on the east coast and the other on the west). The pistons are around $250-$280, it might "cure" the problem but it won`t "fix" the problem. ...redvetracr

 

I got o-ring piston rebuild kits from Vette brakes, worked great, seal is much better than the original and it was a whole lot cheaper than 200 bucks. If ya already have stainless sleeves it should work out great. If ya have any runout you should fix that too tho.

Good luck.

 

jsimpson.....
Please forgive me for being direct. Why would you fix a headache by hitting
yourself on the foot.
I'm not trying to be smart.
Stock pistons/seals will work very well for many, many years with a stainless
caliper.
As everyone has mentioned you must "true" the rotors.
Again, sorry for the direct approach, I just hate to see people spend money
when it may not be necessary.
Just trying to help.
Barry

 

O-ring-equipped calipers "tolerate" excessive runout alot better than standard-sealed caliper pistons, and we all know how much a pain it is to get rotors within the runout spec!

Vette Brakes are a great supplier. I recommend them highly.

 

Ecklers has 'em for sale with no core charge.Bought two replacements for the rears recently. These are Delco units with the new technology. It fixed my problem.

Regards, mark

 

Barry, because trueing the rotors cuts metal off, and those silly springs behind the caliper pistons cause excess needless drag on the rotors, worsening fuel economy....the best fix is make sure the rotors are ok at full thickness and smooth enough...not gouged out a whole lot.... and put the O ring pistons kit in from Vette Brakes, and ME, I"d use DOT5 fluid, and kiss the water/rust problems goodby....

GENE

 

cheeseral,
You are half right! The "standard" VB o-ring piston is cheaper, I was given the ones with the insulators and they are $70 a set of 4. The ZT pistons from California are $250 a set. ...redvetracr


[Modified by redvetracr, 8:06 AM 11/28/2001]

 

Calipers are not o-ringed. The pistons are. Using the term "O-ring Calipers" is a misnomer. Using o-ringed pistons treats the symptoms, not the cause. Carrying it one step further, if you install the o-ring pistons (or calipers with o-ring pistons inside) without addressing the cause (rotor runout warpage, or whatever you want to call it) then current opinion is that you will eventually ruin your calipers. Opinion (and experience) is that the o-ringed pistons work so incredibly well, that owners do not fix the runout problem. As miles pile up, the constant pulsing of the rotor causes the o-ringed pistons to repeatedly slam against the caliper bore (whether it be stainless or iron) and the bore gets egg-shaped, thus ruining the caliper.

O-ringed pistons, regardless of where you buy them or what you call them, do not "cure" the disease. The rotors must be trued to actually cure the problem. O-ringed pistons are a great product if/when applied correctly. And correct application includes using rotors with runout within spec.

If they made o-ringed pistons in stainless, then they would have all of the problems solved. The outer seal groove on the pistons is the first line of defense against moisture intrusion and damage (particularly in the salt belt)... and this is the first place the anodized aluminum pistons fail. Stainless pistons do not have this deficiency.

I use stainless pistons from SS Brakes Corp and I keep my rotors within spec.... absolutely no problems in over 25 years.

I don't know if they currently make the o-ringed pistons in stainless... but that would be the best combo in my opinion.... as long as the rotors are within spec. to begin with.

 

How do you true rear rotors?

 

Man, I hear ya. I went through this too for about 8 mo. Here is what ended up fixing my problem. Provided you have some sort of mechanical inclination, and stainless steel sleves in the calipers. Order the O-Ring seals and Pistons from Vette Brakes. I paid about $130.00 for all four calibers. They were delivered quickly. I ordered them on-line. Then rebuild them and leave the springs out. This will help to account for any rotor runout. The only way I know of fixing the runout is from what I have learned here. They say use a Aluminium can and cut it and use it as spacers behind the rotor. You will need some type of dial indicator to determine the runout. If I can help anymore, let me know. Good luck!

 

Dave...
There are reasons why rotors are not 'true'. Some are natural and some are
SIW. (Self Inflicted Wounds)
Natural, meaning rotors have been excessively over heated or are very thin
and have warped. In either case, "replace them". You'll just be chasing this
for years.

A common "SIW" is the removal of the rotor from the spindle/hub and the
relationship of where it came from has been lost. So when the rotor is replaced in a location that was not it's home, you could have a run out problem.
Also, if a new rotor is installed, the hub may not be true and this also
results in a rotor run out.

To properly get a rotor to run true.
Cheap method: Buy a dial guage, about $20.00 - $30.00. and a cheap set of
feeler guages.
Remove the rotor, check hub/spindle for being true. Most cases they are not.
Mark high/low spot on hub . Write down the amount it is out. Eg. .010
Install the rotor and secure with the wheel nuts. Check runout of rotor.
If it is approx the same location/amount, then the rotor is likely true and the
hub is the cause.
If the rotor is out in another spot, then the rotor is also likely off a bit too. You now have to remove and replace the rotor (by one set of holes each time), until you get the minimun runout.
Once you have done this, mark the "low" spot. If it is eg. .009, then take
the feeler guage and cut off the .008 feeler and place it spanning between two wheel studs on the hub(under the rotor) in the low spot. Install rotor.
Recheck the runout. It should be very close to true. If not, take note of the difference, and increase/decrease the feeler size as required.
Once good, remove rotor and contact cement/weather strip cement the feeler
to the hub. (Rust can cause runout, everything must be extra clean)

Note... If more than one wheel is not true, try a rotor from another wheel in that location. You may find a workable combination hub/rotor.

This method costs very little, just some time, and you can achieve .001 to .000 in runout.

It's not difficult.
Barry

 

Since they are not a supporting vendor, I can tell you NOT to use http://www.vettepartsonline.com. They are a little company that used to be called "Florida Caliper", and they specialize in ripping people off by selling crap products.

Muskegon usually gets the best ratings from CF members.