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Need to verify I understand this correctly. I'm trying to replace the starter on my 71 350/270hp. I have a summit mini starter from an old project. It's an inline starter where as the original was staggered, the block has both bolt patterns so this shouldn't be an issue correct? Also, the mini has a battery lug, and a start (S) stud, it doesn't have a R stud like the factory. If I move the wire from the R stud to the battery lug on the mini starter this should work? As I understand, this just means that things that before would be cut off while cranking will still receive power while cranking? Any issues with this I'm not thinking of? I can buy another factory style starter but I've got this mini already so want to use if there isn't much of a down side.
Last edited by wiseman79; Jan 6, 2008 at 04:49 PM.
Yes, both wires go to the 'S' stud and that'll be just fine.
Actually NOT, because the voltage on the R stud will stay at an average of 9 or so volts when engine is running.....that assumes you have the original point dist....if not, pay attention to the conversion you have....or if it's an HEI conversion, as it should be...that wire going to the R terminal should be set aside and taped off, or cut outta the harness....
what would happen is the starter solenoid would see the ~9 volts meant for the coil and pull it down with solenoid coil loading...the car would run but not for long....maybe even burn up the resistor wire to the spark coil + lead...which is the other end of the R wire at the starter....
you MAY be able to change the starter solenoid, for the older style, but I wold update the igniton long since before even considering that....
Actually NOT, because the voltage on the R stud will stay at an average of 9 or so volts when engine is running.....that assumes you have the original point dist....if not, pay attention to the conversion you have....or if it's an HEI conversion, as it should be...that wire going to the R terminal should be set aside and taped off, or cut outta the harness....
what would happen is the starter solenoid would see the ~9 volts meant for the coil and pull it down with solenoid coil loading...the car would run but not for long....maybe even burn up the resistor wire to the spark coil + lead...which is the other end of the R wire at the starter....
you MAY be able to change the starter solenoid, for the older style, but I wold update the igniton long since before even considering that....
Actually NOT, because the voltage on the R stud will stay at an average of 9 or so volts when engine is running.....that assumes you have the original point dist....if not, pay attention to the conversion you have....or if it's an HEI conversion, as it should be...that wire going to the R terminal should be set aside and taped off, or cut outta the harness....
what would happen is the starter solenoid would see the ~9 volts meant for the coil and pull it down with solenoid coil loading...the car would run but not for long....maybe even burn up the resistor wire to the spark coil + lead...which is the other end of the R wire at the starter....
you MAY be able to change the starter solenoid, for the older style, but I wold update the igniton long since before even considering that....
Interesting. I have a diagram that a fellow member posted in a thread very similar to this one, showing both 'S' and 'R' on the 'S' lug when installing a mini starter. He did this in his Vette and was helping someone else out with the diagram. I confirmed what I remembered by looking at the diagram and the notes I made at the time.
When it was posted he had had it that way for quite some time with no issues. I think I have even seen the same advice given by members in the past in threads just like this one and no one said anything about a problem with both wires being on the same lug.
Have you guys seen one fail or burn up part of the harness? I'm not trying to be a problem here, I just want this to be clear. So far, I have heard it two different ways from two people who seem to know what they are talking about and want to get it right so no one burns up their car.
The R term supplies 12 volts to the coil, overiding the ballast resistor for starting. When released, the ballast resistor backfeeds this wire, where it is harmlessly dead ended when running.
Tying the two would feed the solenoid via the ballast resistor while running.
Best bet, put a good original back in the car. Just make sure it`s a "HD" {heavy duty} starter and you will be ok. Those 'minis' scare me. Little jape starters cranking high HP big GM engines.
Best bet, put a good original back in the car. Just make sure it`s a "HD" {heavy duty} starter and you will be ok. Those 'minis' scare me. Little jape starters cranking high HP big GM engines.
You know which starter I like. GM seemed to think it was sufficient for a ZZ502.
You know which starter I like. GM seemed to think it was sufficient for a ZZ502.
Yes I do. the same one that I like. "GM`s little permanent magnet starter} But it`s a metric starter and also for electronic ignition {HEI} and some people get confused on wiring it correctly if they have points. Good choice either way!
Yes I do. the same one that I like. "GM`s little permanent magnet starter} But it`s a metric starter and also for electronic ignition {HEI} and some people get confused on wiring it correctly if they have points. Good choice either way!
Never tried wiring one up on a points system. It sure made life easier on my 77 L48, though...even if it does sound rather weird when spinning.