I have finally taken the plunge and decided to rebuild my stock, well almost stock LS-5 in my 71 coupe. As I am working overseas for the next couple of years and the car is in the "safe" hands of my Dad in Hagerstown, Md. it seems like a good time.!

My Dad is an ex-Mack truck guy and an old hot rodder; however the build up will be completely outsourced as I live overseas and Dad is retired. He will be able to check up and keep after all of the details; being as expert machinist and gearhead.

Does anyone know of any good builders for the job? My Dad checked out Denny's in Williamsport and was very impressed. Apparently they like Big Block's! Well who doesn't right! Denny's seem to be saying the right stuff. I want to begin the job late in 08.

Here's what I want. First off; I like some of the stuff Gofast is doing with stock looking engines! My goal is a NICE street engine in a car that I can take to West Texas, when I move back and run one of the open course road races. I'll start in the 125 mph class. I want to look stock or "close" to stock. I'll keep the M-21 with 3:55's for now; maybe upgrade to a TKO 500 later.

I want stock LS-5 heads but good head work, real good. Any ideas for head work? I like Gessler and Louthan. Stock hood is a must. I would like to keep my worked Q-jet, ported intake, ported and flowed manifolds, but maybe headers and a demon carb.... depends on what the experts say! I don't need huge power, but something that can run all day in Texas, which is hard. Good cooling (I have a DeWitts rad and a Stew pump) / oiling system is a must have. I'll stay with 454, 0.060+. What do you guys think of staying with the stock crank and rods? I can spring for new parts but WILL NOT use Chinese stuff. So Crower or Lunati. What about coatings, heads, vlvs, pistons,..etc? Precision porting has some good info ideas.

I have upgraded suspension based on VBP parts, Fiberglass spring, Bilsteins, Wilwoods. So it stops and turns good, just need the GO!

ITs still wearing its tired old Ont Orange paint, but I DON'T care!! The car will be for go not show!

carbster
carbster09@juno.com

 

Check w/ Charles Reichard at CamCraft for a reference ... they make cams ... manufacture-grind ... not just sell .. they're not in motor building business but they know alotta folks who are.

Camcraft Cams
8357 Black Dog Alley, Easton, MD 21601
Phone (410)822-2122 (800)426-2261 Fax (410)822-0121
e-mail: charles@camcraftcams.com

 

Check with Frederick Performance Center north of Frederick. They installed a crate engine for me last year. They can give you solid advice on building an engine. 301-898-9870...ask for Scott.

 

I have had great results with Cresap Machine in Cumberland MD. Dean the owner is very honest and very knowledgable. He does a lot of corvette motor rebuilds and understands the need to retain the numbers and such. Most of his business is in support of the local racers but he has several restoration shops on the east cost that bring their work to him. His shop is very well equipped complete with a dyno and flow bench. He would do a great job. Call 301-724-8794 and ask for Dean..

 

We call these our "high-output" stockers here on Long Island.

They are all at or under a 9.5:1 C.R. They have 4.250" cranks inside with some +.250" rods and "lightweight" pistons.

I've got to tell you here, the "key" to most of this performance comes from the SB 2.125"/2.150" intake valves and the 1.720" exhaust's with some very mild porting, more "massaging" than real porting. They all have exhaust seats for unleaded. It's exactly for this reason we DO NOT use the 1.880" exh valves. You CANNOT use the large exhaust's in conjunction with the "unleaded" inserts.

You do pick up some add'l CFM by using the SB stem diameters. All my own customer's that had these units done are extremely happy with there 4000# (Chevelles) rides!

No special torque convertor's required, they run with all 36* of the timing "up-front", and they idle with a minimum of 16" vacuum!

The last build, for a '72, left the dyno with 463 HP @ 5700 and 541 Ft.Lbs. @ 3600 RPM. (This one actually fell in line with the factory tach readings)

These are just all-around nice drivers! No headers/header leaks to contend with either.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Carbster, I sent you an e-mail! Below here is the only photo I have available on the computer! This is one of the first builds with some low(er) HP numbers. I think this made about 405 HP or so with a small(er) cam than most of the later builds. It made in the area of 500 Ft.Lbs. torque at 3600 RPM.

 

Thanks for the advise guys!

ZL1powr; I remembered from your old posts that there was someone up that way. I will have my Dad check it out.

GOFAST; thanks for the info. I really like what you do with the engines. I am debating whether or not to go with headers. I do want the hp they offer. Do you have any experience with ported/flowed or even extude honed manifolds? I know I would lose the svanging effect of exhaust headers, but they should flow. However I am having an issue finding made in the USA repro exhaust manifolds. I refuse to use Chinese parts.... it an American car right?

I am looking at cams in the 230ish @ 0.050" range. I will go with the Cam grinder or builders recommendations most likely.

carbster09

 

Hi carbster, really quick here, you will not gain the power that many believe with headers over manifolds.

Let me give you this recent example:
the unit mentioned above was tested with BOTH exhaust setups. We were a little surprised with the results ourselves.

The HP and Torque above was produced with the "stock" exhaust manifolds, they actually had the "smog" fittings incorporated, they were "open" without mufflers, and NO porting on them whatsoever!

The test with the 1.750" headers, also "open", no mufflers, produced 471 HP @ 5500 and 523 Ft.Lbs. Torque @ 4200.

My own choice here for whole bunch of specific reasons would be the factory pipes! Trust me on this one, I get much feedback from some of the F.A.S.T. class racers!

The "lifespan" for headers is relatively short by comparison! The manifolds will last "forever"!

One more item to remember here, you WILL NOT benefit from headers unless you "uncork" them AND it will make a Vette rather "noisy"!!! No "fun" there!

(Add) DO NOT let the "phone-jockey's" at any of the cam companies pick your cam, you WILL get the wrong cam, almost guaranteed! We don't use any "book" grinds anymore on any decent builds!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Before I spent on the "Extrude-Hone" option, and this we've tested as well, I would donate to worthwhile charity first. Much more rewarding for sure! (Unless you're "chasing" HP, save your money!)