383 Rotating Assemblies? Who Do You Guys Use?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 948
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From: Johnston Iowa
383 Rotating Assemblies? Who Do You Guys Use?
I’m getting ready to rebuild a 350 I have in a 1968 Camaro and for the cost I figured I would just purchase a 383 rotating assembly for it and make it into a 383. I have used some Eagle Specialty Products in the past and I see they make a number of different kits. This is going to be a pump gas motor and will not see any track time. I was just curious to see who you guys have used for rotating kits that have built 383’s? Also I know the difference between a forged crank and a cast crank but what do they mean when they say cast steel crank? This is just a cast crank right?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
Cast steel is a "cast" crank as opposed to a "forged" steel crank from a billet. There are a number of choices, Eagle, Scat and Ohio Crankshaft seems to be pretty popular. Ohio Crankshaft was a former Dodge Viper crank contractor which says a lot for their quality. A cast crank will be adequate for most mild street builds. I've used a stock GM 400 crank turned down in a nitrous motor that I ran trouble free for 6 years before I sold it.
http://www.ohiocrank.com
http://www.ohiocrank.com
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Jan 10, 2008 at 11:44 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Go down to the bottom and get one of the $1100 dollar kits
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
Or go down to the 3.875 stroker kit and build a 396 ci for $1400
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
I just got tired of breaking stuff and even had a set of KB Hyper pistons smear aluminum in the bores. So I bought all forged lightweight kits for about $3200 and have never had a problem. These lower 1100-1400 is the minimum I would use.
I also only build 396 ci stroker motors in 350 blocks because for the cost they put out the most power.
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
Or go down to the 3.875 stroker kit and build a 396 ci for $1400
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
I just got tired of breaking stuff and even had a set of KB Hyper pistons smear aluminum in the bores. So I bought all forged lightweight kits for about $3200 and have never had a problem. These lower 1100-1400 is the minimum I would use.
I also only build 396 ci stroker motors in 350 blocks because for the cost they put out the most power.
Last edited by gkull; Jan 10, 2008 at 12:07 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,738
Likes: 2
From: San diego ca
Go down to the bottom and get one of the $1100 dollar kits
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
Or go down to the 3.875 stroker kit and build a 396 ci for $1400
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
I just got tired of breaking stuff and even had a set of KB Hyper pistons smear aluminum in the bores. So I bought all forged lightweight kits for about $3200 and have never had a problem. These lower 1100-1400 is the minum I would use.
I also only build 396 ci stroker motors in 350 blocks because for the cost they put out the most power.
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
Or go down to the 3.875 stroker kit and build a 396 ci for $1400
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html
I just got tired of breaking stuff and even had a set of KB Hyper pistons smear aluminum in the bores. So I bought all forged lightweight kits for about $3200 and have never had a problem. These lower 1100-1400 is the minum I would use.
I also only build 396 ci stroker motors in 350 blocks because for the cost they put out the most power.
I got all my bottom end stuff from flatlander...good guys
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
James:
I don't do kits ... buy the stuff separately ... when chosen & shopped right ... you'll get what you NEED and probably save $.
Watch your compression ratio. That 68 camaro 350 may have iron heads with about 64cc combustion chamber volume. Before you proceed ... You need to KNOW what heads you're gonna use ... there's a casting number under valve cover that'll ID GM heads. If 64cc, you'll probably want deep-dish or reverse dome pistons for most street. Once you stray from 3.75" stroke (typical 383) ... and unless you spend all out on forged stuff ... costs climb when you deviate from 3.75". I don't like any cast or hyper piston mfg'd by KB or UEM ... I do like Sealed Power/Speed Pro cast/hyper. Bottom line ... 383 with cast crank & cast/hyper piston is rather inexpensive and holds up for most street / lite strip use.
I don't do kits ... buy the stuff separately ... when chosen & shopped right ... you'll get what you NEED and probably save $.
Watch your compression ratio. That 68 camaro 350 may have iron heads with about 64cc combustion chamber volume. Before you proceed ... You need to KNOW what heads you're gonna use ... there's a casting number under valve cover that'll ID GM heads. If 64cc, you'll probably want deep-dish or reverse dome pistons for most street. Once you stray from 3.75" stroke (typical 383) ... and unless you spend all out on forged stuff ... costs climb when you deviate from 3.75". I don't like any cast or hyper piston mfg'd by KB or UEM ... I do like Sealed Power/Speed Pro cast/hyper. Bottom line ... 383 with cast crank & cast/hyper piston is rather inexpensive and holds up for most street / lite strip use.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Johnston Iowa
Thanks for tips and suggestions guys!!!! A 396 might be something for me to think about too.
My motta is "No replacement for displacement"!!!!
gkull is there quite a bit more clearancing that has to be performed to get the 3.875 crank into a 350 block to net the 396CI's?
I have a set of World Products cast iron 69CC 2.055 Intake/1.60 Exhaust 200CC runner heads I could use on this motor along with some Comp Cams Retro fit Hydraulic Roller lifters. Just kind of getting started and have not put a ton of thought into the entire configuration yet but I know before I buy anything I need to make sure I have a good config in place for what I want to use the setup for.
My motta is "No replacement for displacement"!!!!
gkull is there quite a bit more clearancing that has to be performed to get the 3.875 crank into a 350 block to net the 396CI's?
I have a set of World Products cast iron 69CC 2.055 Intake/1.60 Exhaust 200CC runner heads I could use on this motor along with some Comp Cams Retro fit Hydraulic Roller lifters. Just kind of getting started and have not put a ton of thought into the entire configuration yet but I know before I buy anything I need to make sure I have a good config in place for what I want to use the setup for.
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Thanks for tips and suggestions guys!!!! A 396 might be something for me to think about too.
My motta is "No replacement for displacement"!!!!
gkull is there quite a bit more clearancing that has to be performed to get the 3.875 crank into a 350 block to net the 396CI's?
I have a set of World Products cast iron 69CC 2.055 Intake/1.60 Exhaust 200CC runner heads I could use on this motor along with some Comp Cams Retro fit Hydraulic Roller lifters. Just kind of getting started and have not put a ton of thought into the entire configuration yet but I know before I buy anything I need to make sure I have a good config in place for what I want to use the setup for.
My motta is "No replacement for displacement"!!!!
gkull is there quite a bit more clearancing that has to be performed to get the 3.875 crank into a 350 block to net the 396CI's?
I have a set of World Products cast iron 69CC 2.055 Intake/1.60 Exhaust 200CC runner heads I could use on this motor along with some Comp Cams Retro fit Hydraulic Roller lifters. Just kind of getting started and have not put a ton of thought into the entire configuration yet but I know before I buy anything I need to make sure I have a good config in place for what I want to use the setup for.
The difference in the amount of grinding in the forward cylinder pan rails is minimal.
I also own a 67 RS/SS 4 speed. It has a 2.73 rear end. So it's usually either bog or burn to take off. But once your moving it's all about motor TQ.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
I got my kit from Ohio Crankshaft. I used their crank and rods, and they used Speed Pro pistons for the kit. It came externally balanced with the flexplate, balancer, all bearings, etc.
I had a few problems logistically, but they were all worked out. They were minimal. First, they sent me a crank for a 400 block. They picked it back up and cut it down to the correct size. Next, I was missing the piston pin clips. They sent them to me. Next, the piston rods were not properly cam-clearanced. They sent me another set. It delayed my project a little bit, but they were always very nice on the telephone, and promptly rectified all issues.
I have not yet fired the engine up yet, but I would not have any problems at this point recommending them.
I had a few problems logistically, but they were all worked out. They were minimal. First, they sent me a crank for a 400 block. They picked it back up and cut it down to the correct size. Next, I was missing the piston pin clips. They sent them to me. Next, the piston rods were not properly cam-clearanced. They sent me another set. It delayed my project a little bit, but they were always very nice on the telephone, and promptly rectified all issues.
I have not yet fired the engine up yet, but I would not have any problems at this point recommending them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Things definitely get more interesting with a 396, including the need for a small base circle cam in some cases.
My only advice is to avoid Eagle cranks. My 383 Eagle cast crank had unacceptable taper, and I've heard of a few other experiences from my machine shop. Scat has been universally good.
As you note, it's really time to get the plan together
My only advice is to avoid Eagle cranks. My 383 Eagle cast crank had unacceptable taper, and I've heard of a few other experiences from my machine shop. Scat has been universally good.
As you note, it's really time to get the plan together
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Had some bad experiences with Eagle in the past, mainly balancing issues and broken Cranks.
I only use SCAT now and they seem to be of better quality in all regards.
I have never tried Ohio Crank so i dont know anything about them.
For a performnce engine i would recommend that you go with forged pistons and forged rods, no need for a forged crank unless you plan on high rpm
I only use SCAT now and they seem to be of better quality in all regards.
I have never tried Ohio Crank so i dont know anything about them.
For a performnce engine i would recommend that you go with forged pistons and forged rods, no need for a forged crank unless you plan on high rpm
