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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 10:12 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by wev
That sounds nice, i have seen those kits on CNC's site, the cap screw bolts help locate more securley i guess but do they help with clearance?

wev
Just been on the site again, quite interested in the kit CNC-IKB197, these seems to have good ratio's for pump fuel, not sure if teh rods are cleared for the cam tho, i have emailed them for advice.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Wev
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by AWilson
That would be true and shows your thinking, but I don't think you have to worry about the rods hitting the cam with what your trying to do. I could be wrong and you should seek other advice.
I went with a small base circle cam on mine. Normally, if you do this, you will not hit. As long as your shop is competent, this will be business as usual for them.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 03:17 AM
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I did not use a small base circle cam....and what exactly is that??? my rods did hit my cam just a little and I had to grind on the rod bolt heads for some minor clearancing after i had it all balanced and it did not effect the balance of the motor as far as i can tell driving it. i used eagle 383 crank, 6" scat rods, and kb pistons. Are the small base circle cams just smaller cams?
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by FUNDERBURK
I did not use a small base circle cam....and what exactly is that??? my rods did hit my cam just a little and I had to grind on the rod bolt heads for some minor clearancing after i had it all balanced and it did not effect the balance of the motor as far as i can tell driving it. i used eagle 383 crank, 6" scat rods, and kb pistons. Are the small base circle cams just smaller cams?
They start with a smaller diameter slug and grind the correct profile into it. I've heard it doesn't affect the specs available to you, but it does take a longer pushrod. They (pushrods) are something that should be spec'd just for your build anyway.

Last edited by 68vertible; Jan 28, 2008 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by FUNDERBURK
I did not use a small base circle cam....and what exactly is that??? my rods did hit my cam just a little and I had to grind on the rod bolt heads for some minor clearancing after i had it all balanced and it did not effect the balance of the motor as far as i can tell driving it. i used eagle 383 crank, 6" scat rods, and kb pistons. Are the small base circle cams just smaller cams?
Grinding 'bits' from each rod must have upset the balance, it would be impossible to take off exactly the same amount from each each, i would be tempted to get that checked out ??

Do the new type of 'cap screw' give bigger clearances? id be doubious grinding bits away from one of teh main points of the rotating setup, wont that weaken them?
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 05:34 AM
  #26  
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Well I thought the same, actually grinding on a new set of rods that I just spend $240 on them but, I didn't just jump into this as a blind idiot...I read a book on exactly how to build a small block stroker.
"How to Build Big-Inch Chevy Small Blocks"
Also read an article in chevy high performance where they did exactly the same thing i did, after balancing. So the method is out there weather its a shade tree mechanic type procedure or whatever i didn't just come up with it on my own, im not that brave to start grinding on new parts.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 05:36 AM
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also still running after 6 months or so....pretty strong at that and i drive it like i stole it on a regular basis.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by FUNDERBURK
Well I thought the same, actually grinding on a new set of rods that I just spend $240 on them but, I didn't just jump into this as a blind idiot...I read a book on exactly how to build a small block stroker.
"How to Build Big-Inch Chevy Small Blocks"
Also read an article in chevy high performance where they did exactly the same thing i did, after balancing. So the method is out there weather its a shade tree mechanic type procedure or whatever i didn't just come up with it on my own, im not that brave to start grinding on new parts.

Sorry i wsnt implying that you jupmed in a started taking chunks out of it, just suprised that after a delicate operation of balancing you went for it.

I take my hat of to your skills at undertaking this and succeding

I will have to get the book and read up, thanks
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 05:47 AM
  #29  
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i still have that book if you are interesting in it...... let me know.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 07:49 AM
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A paper clip is steel and weighs a gram. I don't know that I've ever seen the need to take more than a gram or two off of the shoulder of a rod for balancing. Balancing is a best guess anyway - part of the assembly rotates, part reciprocates, we THINK we know how to divide those up, but how about the oil? It's filling the oil passages on the crank plus clinging to everything in the crankcast. David Reher calls it a "monsoon" and that's what I imagine it looks like. How much weight do you add for oil? If you swap pistons, that's a rebalance. Grinding a gram or two off of a rod shoulder isn't going to make a bit of difference - we did the same thing on my kid's stroker and it's smooth as silk to 6K and we checked the bearings when we swapped trucks with it and they look brand new at 10,000 miles. Who knows, we might have gotten the balance better than the shop

Best trick to check clearances is to use a piece of solder, .100 diameter. You can put it between the cam and rods and it'll smash it as things turn so you can figure out exactly how much clearance you have. It's so soft that it won't mar the cam at all.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FUNDERBURK
i still have that book if you are interesting in it...... let me know.
Bugger ! i just brough 1 of amazon, prob cheaper than the postage from US tho, they do brand new and second hand, the 1 i bought was at second hand price but says new and unused

Any way £5.50 is not bad :-)

Nice tip on the clearing tho, thanks for teh advice guys, im still pondering wether to go with the eagle kit and do some work or scat, i see some good prices on each.

What i find difficult to understand is the apparently same kits are advatised at 400hp, 450hp and upto 500hp, the same kit with same compression ratio's and parts?

Do the new type of 'cap screw' give bigger clearances?

Last edited by wev; Feb 1, 2008 at 08:40 AM.
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