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Im in the middle of a complete resto of my 77', i have the engine stripped and it is bored to 0.030" over, im considering going 383 while the engine is at this stage.
Being a novice to engine building im reading as much as i can in this mind field but have seen 383 kits on the market, these offer cranks that are made to fit rather than the 400 re-grinds that you have to check clearances etc.
Question is, has anyone used these kits and could they recommend a good supplier, i believe there are some kits out there that come ready (int) balanced as well?
Any help appreciated, but please dont get tooooo technical (it will take me longer to research your reply :-) )
You Will Need To Grind Clearances In The Lower Block To Allow Crank And Rods To Rotate. Block Must Be Cleaned After This Is Done, Some Oil Pan Interference May Occur Also.
And not let's forget the trickle down effect Those 383s need lots air to breathe so next you'll be looking at bigger heads, intake and headers along with a good exhaust system.
Whether or not you will need clearancing depends on the block casting you have. Pan rail and lower cylinders are typical interference points. Rods may also hit the cam depending on what you have.
Even if they say no clearancing needed I sure would not take their word for it. Check it maybe 50 times for the correct clearance. When it is turning 6500+ rpm this is not when you want to find out if it needed to be clearanced. Get quality parts and do it right. Cheap and high HP don't mix very well. Spend your money wisely but don't go for the cheapest and easiest kit out there.
There are different approaches. I was a complete novice at this a few months ago. Now I know maybe 10%. If you look for threads that I have started you will see the pain and fun I have gone through from even deciding to turn my 327 into a 383 on down to figuring out what parts to use for my 383 build.
It is all recent and if you have any questions you can contact me any way you wish. Right now I have my heads rebuilt, block is almost ready, all the big parts are purchased. I am probably going to have the short block built up as opposed to doing it myself.
I have what seems to be turning out to be a EXCELLENT machine shop, Opel Engineering. (They have a web-site)
I think you will need heads with a 77 engine because my 68 camel hump heads created varying positions on their suitability for a 383. But I have bigger valves and some porting done. And I will not be running at high RPM's much. Just stuff that I shouldn't be doing on the street. So my heads are fine. The big thing is everything has to match reasonably so there are no links that are much weaker than the rest. If you PM me I can give you a few people who's opinions I trust, or you can probably tell from the way the threads go.
Whether or not you will need clearancing depends on the block casting you have. Pan rail and lower cylinders are typical interference points. Rods may also hit the cam depending on what you have.
I got my crank from Ohio Crank and had to grind the block at each cylinder. It all depends on your block.
Thanks for the advice guys, this is deff a minefield and so much info out there, its a matter of filtering through it and learning, reading about the diff quality of cranks, heat treated, cast, forged
One other thing is bothering me about the build, OK, the block can be ground to ensure the rods are OK in the block, but, if you buy a balanced set up ready for install, and the rods catch the cam, you have to rework the rods, surly this will upset the balance and make the balancing process pointless at the earlier stage??
Sorry if the questions are basic, im learning and its a long trek
One other thing is bothering me about the build, OK, the block can be ground to ensure the rods are OK in the block, but, if you buy a balanced set up ready for install, and the rods catch the cam, you have to rework the rods, surly this will upset the balance and make the balancing process pointless at the earlier stage??
Sorry if the questions are basic, im learning and its a long trek
That would be true and shows your thinking, but I don't think you have to worry about the rods hitting the cam with what your trying to do. I could be wrong and you should seek other advice.
Ohh, wev wev wev....
Now you've really screwed me up. If you're modifying your engine then you know damn well I'm going to have to do the same.
My missus is gonna kill me.
Scat has a great budget kit cnc-motorsports.com carries w/the best prices, I have 1 of thier 383 6" rod kits in my SJ 327 block. Competition Products has a 363ci kit if block clearancing bothers you, it offers a forged crank, scat rods and forged f/t pistons rings and bearings for 989.95 a bit more stroke @ 3.562. I just received my 400 kit from cnc. Internal balanced 9000 crank, 4340 I-beam rods w/cap screw bolts, Probe forged f/t pistons clevite bearings and total seal rings 784.95 on my doorstep in 5 days. They also have kits for less with cast or hyperutectic pistions.
Scat has a great budget kit cnc-motorsports.com carries w/the best prices, I have 1 of thier 383 6" rod kits in my SJ 327 block. Competition Products has a 363ci kit if block clearancing bothers you, it offers a forged crank, scat rods and forged f/t pistons rings and bearings for 989.95 a bit more stroke @ 3.562. I just received my 400 kit from cnc. Internal balanced 9000 crank, 4340 I-beam rods w/cap screw bolts, Probe forged f/t pistons clevite bearings and total seal rings 784.95 on my doorstep in 5 days. They also have kits for less with cast or hyperutectic pistions.
That sounds nice, i have seen those kits on CNC's site, the cap screw bolts help locate more securley i guess but do they help with clearance?