I decided to get my clock working, why I decided this is a long story, but to put it short, its a "while Im at it"...

So anyway, I don't believe it has worked in 10 years, but I went at it anyway. Not a problem really. cleaned it(didn't take it completely apart)..and put it back together, the beauty is, the gears are working again. Here is where I run into a problem. It only works when I push down on the second hand. I mean down as in toward 6 oclock. I think a gear is loose, but I want your guys opinion. I think its either that or a bad spring somewhere because if I run the clock backward with my had, then let it go, it goes about 1/4th the way around the face, then stops again, and I can't keep it going.

Thanks;
Daniel
PS. Is the wire going into the back of it a ground? If so where does the clock get its power?

 

Daniel
Do your self a favor and get a Quartz conversion kit. Even after you get that antique working it's going to be a crap shoot as to how long it will stay that way. If you have the clock out of the car you've already done most of the work and I don't think you want to do it again. The conversions aren't expensive (around $50 I think) and they work much better than the electro mechanical setup in the originals. Trust me on this, I did the clean-it-up thing twice before I finally did the conversion. I think I can take out the gauge cluster in my sleep. :yesnod:

 

Im trying to avoid that road. Not that I don't want my clock to work, but I want to see if I can get it working first. I guess the 2nd time it stops I'll look for the conversion kit(I don't mind taking it out, it was actually kinda fun :smash: ). Also I just spend $50 on application fee, so my current worth is $0.00.....we'll see after christmas though.

Daniel

 

I just had mine done by a guy in California. He noted that the Borgs are easy to redo but the Westclocks are not. For my Monte Carlo, it is a Westclock. Mine has not worked in over 15 years and not only did he fix it perfectly, but he turned it around for me asap as my daily driver was down. I love the clock working - I did not realize how much I had missed it. Nice Quartz movement. I know you can get kits for the Vettes (as actually I have a Quartz - awaiting replacement) but I felt his kind and quality service deserved a plug. David Lindquist 12427 Penn St # D
Whittier CA 90602

 

I bought one of the Quartz kits. Installed it and it looked OK. Installed in back in the car, didn't check to see if it would work. Finished all of the interior installation. Put the battery cable back on and only the second hand will run. You can manually move the hands but only the second hand will move on battery power. There's no way I'm going to pull the instrument cluster out just for that. Another $50 down the drain.

 

well an update....after lots of work, and tinkering, I can get it to run a minute at a time with no power...and when I hook it up to power, it still only works a minute...I have a question to someone who may know. When the points touch...whats supposed to happen?

If I could figure out which wire goes to the clock on the circut board(power, ground, something else) then I could probably get it working. The longer I look at it, the simpler it gets...I just need to figure out how its SUPPOSED to work...that'll help me find the problem and fix it...then I could post it here for others to fallow...and keep their clocks origional.
'
Daniel

 

When the points touch, it should pop the arm back open which winds the spring that keeps it going until the points touch again and then it starts all over. lou

 

Yes, be sure there's enough points material for the points to touch and that you're hooking up to a car battery for power. A 12 volt wall wart will not supply enough juice to work the points properly

 

Daniel

Have posted several times on this. All the info. is in the archives. Have fixed many w/ a shot of WD-40. Someone posted that clock lube would be better.

Shoot w/ WD-40 & you may need to tap it from time to time to keep it going, soon it will go by itself.

It will keep runnning a little after power is cut off.

Setting forward speeds up & setting back slows down.

:cool:

 

I've seen the replacement mechanical movement ones (just the back part of the clock) in the Zip catalog. Mine's dead too. The battery cutoff wreaks havoc with it. I get it lubed up & going then I cut the batter for 3 or 4 days and it's all gummed up again. Be careful with the WD-40 - if it oozes down the shaft to the face it'll stain the clock face.

BTW, I know you know this, but for the benefit of others who might not realize this, the NCRS judges know to look for the tick tick of the hand and listen for the movement. The quartz ones the arm sweeps smoothly and they're silent. I'd definately be interested in pictures of the repair process - or even what the guts look like for that matter! :D

 

As for lube, I sprayed the gears real good with electronics grade "delicate parts cleaner" to get the gears and cam moving easiliy, then a quick shot of tuner cleaner/lubricant. That's the stuff you would spray in a potentiometer if it's sticky or dirty. You can get this stuff at Lowes, Radio Shack, etc. Doesn't leave a sticky residue.

DO NOT under any circumstances use "heavy duty flux remover" That is the best paint stripper/parts cleaner on the face of the earth. I mention this because it's also in the elctronics spray can section, and could be used by accident. It would clean REALLY well, but you would also have a nice shiny metal clock face :eek:


[Modified by thejaf, 10:11 AM 11/29/2001]

 

daniel77350,
I'm in the same boat as you. I'll give it a try first with the org. before I put in new inards. Cleaned mine up with contact cleaner and lightly sprayed on some GM silicone lub on the gears. Filed the contacts and added a little solder. It's been running on a 9v. battery on my garage bench now for 2 days. Will install next days off.

 

How did you hook up the battery? Where did you connect the + and - on the clock? It's one of those connector deals with 2 outlets right? (Going from lousy memory here). Does it matter which one is where? Cool, didn't think of trying it that way. :D ~Juliet

 

Juliet,
Just used 2 small wire jumpers with aligator clips. Hooked + side battery to threaded connection with nut on it. The connection that protruds thru the case and connects to circuit board in back. Hooked - side to clock frame. If you look close there's a flexible strip of metal that touches the clock case when installed, this is the - , clip hook on there or anyware it connectes. 9v. doesnt kick the spring back as far as a 12v. but still gives it 50-60 secs. before re-set.

 

HERES MY 2C'S:

SOME FOLKS HAVE HAD LUCK WITH JUST CLEANING AND LUBING. BUT REMEMBER, THE NEWEST CLOCK IN OUR C3'S ARE ALMOST 10 YEARS OLD FOR A '82

THE CLOCKS WITH THE MECHANICAL/POINTS TYPE RETURN (THE TYPES WE HAVE) WERE NOT MADE WITH LONGEVITY IN MIND. ADD PLASTIC GEARS TO THAT, AND YOU CAN SEE MY POINT

IT IS WORTH THE 50 BUCKS FOR THE KITS THAT WILL PROPERLY REPAIR THEM. GET THE QUARTZ OR NON QUARTZ MOVEMENT, THEY ARE BOTH AVAILABLE, AND ANYONE CAN INSTALL THEM. TRUST ME, GETTIN TO AND REMOVING THE CLOCK IS A WHOLE LOT HARDER THAN INSTALLING THE KIT

I MEAN, LOOK AT THE PIA IT IS TO REMOVE THE CLOCK. TYPICALLY, CLEANING AND LUBING MAKES THESE CLOCKS WORK TEMPORARILY, BEFORE AGAIN, THEY HAVE TO BE REMOVED

REGARDLESS OF WHICH PATH YOU USE, ALWAYS CHECK THE CLOCK BEFORE YOU REINSTALL:

TAKE THE WIRE FROM THE BACK AND ATTACH TO POS POST ON BATTERY. GROUND THE BACK OF THE CLOCK BODY

I DID IT BY TAKING MY NON VETTE CAR, OPENING THE HOOD. I LAYED THE CLOCK ON TOP OF THE RADIATOR BRACE, SO IT WAS GROUNDED. I THEN TOOK THE WIRE ON THE BACK, AND ATTACHED IT TO THE POS POST ON THE BATTERY

I LET IT SIT OVER NITE, AND CHECKED IT IN THE MORNING FOR ACCURACY/OPERATION

 

Yo Melvin - I KNEW it - You're stuck in a time warp! :lol: Last time I checked 1982 was almost 20 years ago! :jester Unless you've discovered the secret to youth - in which case, you'd darn well better be sharing it with your forum buddies! :cheers: ~Juliet :blueangel:

 

Check this guy out Corvette Clocks by Rodger 901-664-6120! He does great work! I have used him myself! RUMBLE RUMBLE

 

DAMN...IT NOT THAT IM STUCK IN A TIMEWARP, I JUST CANT DO SIMPLE MATH! :crazy:

 

first of all...I took the clock face off(so I wouldn't ruin it). And as for getting it back on, and putting the hands in the correct spot, Im not to worried about that, there is always a way to adjust the hands before the clock is put back into the cluster. I know how Im going to adjust it so the hands are correct, but I won't bother explaining it because its to long(its a matter of waiting).

Anyway, I will take some pictures of the internals and post them up here soon. You guys have given me a weath of information so I can figure out how its supposed to work, and ways of testing it(+ and - batt locations).

Daniel
PS. Thanks guys. also, I will get pictures up of clock interals soon. Also when I put the cluster back in, I will take pictures, then put them in reverse, and show the removal procedure of the clock from the cluster, the repair, and installation. Removing it was super easy.

Also since I have the cluster out(and taken 100% apart for cleaning), is there anything in particular anyone needs a picture of before I put it back together and take "general" install/removal photo's...????

 

ok bad news. I had to put it back in the car. My daily driver broke down again(the vette is more relyable...go figure), and I needed a car tomarrow. So I started to reassemble it at 4:30...I was in a rush so I didn't get any pictures. The clock still doesn't work, but in about 2 weeks, when it goes down for winter(if it ever gets cold here :confused: ) I will take it back out and try again. It took me about an hour and a half to reassemble the center cluster, and put it in the car, wire up the radio, and put in the side console cover things(those are a PITA...took me probably 30 minutes for those alone).

I just got it done before dark(I had to use a flashlite to mount the side cover things...which probably made it more difficult).

Anyway, like I said, I'll take it back out later and try again and take pictures. I did however get pictures of the clocks internals(pictures of the points, what I consider to be the "pengulum", and a wide shot of it), about 5 in all. I will get them loaded and posted hopefully tomarrow.

Again, terribly sorry I didn't get pictures of the reinstall, or get it working, and a method telling everyone how, but like I said, I need a car tomarrow, and it was quicker to put back together then my daily driver.

Daniel