Total Brake line replacement questions
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
Total Brake line replacement questions
I have read alot on the discussion board about this subject. Couple of questions:
1. Replace all the blocks at the sametime?
2. Can you mix braided steel flexible hose with stell lines?
3. Need flare wrench kit--what is different about these wrenches--they look different.
4. How hard--I have the TA's off now.
5. Any words of wisdom before starting?
6. Can I us the old clips that hold the lines to the frame?
Thanks
1. Replace all the blocks at the sametime?
2. Can you mix braided steel flexible hose with stell lines?
3. Need flare wrench kit--what is different about these wrenches--they look different.
4. How hard--I have the TA's off now.
5. Any words of wisdom before starting?
6. Can I us the old clips that hold the lines to the frame?
Thanks
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
I did my 75 and it wasen't bad, the fronts are pretty easy. The only tight spot is going up around the trailing arms in the back, I used the prebent lines and had to reform the line a little to get it turned around while working on jackstands, there wasen't enough room between the car and the floor to snake it up thru.
There's a pretty tight spot trying to get the clip off and reinstalled right near the trailing arm.
You should always use line wrenches on the fittings, I'm sure you know the look like the letter "C" and help prevent rounding the nuts especially when removing the old ones. I did not replace the blocks on mine, if yours are in good shape, there's no real reason to do it. Take it back, I did replace 1 because I couldn't get the fitting out.
The old clips are fine as long as the threads are good and they aren't all rusted up.
I guess you could mix flex and rigid lines but I'm not an expert on that, flex lines are used at each wheel anyway. Get S/S flex lines at the wheels.
Good luck
There's a pretty tight spot trying to get the clip off and reinstalled right near the trailing arm.
You should always use line wrenches on the fittings, I'm sure you know the look like the letter "C" and help prevent rounding the nuts especially when removing the old ones. I did not replace the blocks on mine, if yours are in good shape, there's no real reason to do it. Take it back, I did replace 1 because I couldn't get the fitting out.
The old clips are fine as long as the threads are good and they aren't all rusted up.
I guess you could mix flex and rigid lines but I'm not an expert on that, flex lines are used at each wheel anyway. Get S/S flex lines at the wheels.
Good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
You can reuse the brass block if you didn't damage them when removing the old lines. Get new clips, some kits even come with them, they are less than a buck anyway. Make sure you hold the block with the correct size wrench when removing and installing the lines to it.
The reason to use flare nut wrenches is to prevent rounding of the flare nuts and ruining them, the have more contact area with the flare nut than a conventional wrench. (You can see an example at; http://blog.scottsvettetalk.com/2008...placement.aspx
Not really clear on your question regarding flex lines, S/S covered flex lines are available in place of the plain rubber hoses.
The reason to use flare nut wrenches is to prevent rounding of the flare nuts and ruining them, the have more contact area with the flare nut than a conventional wrench. (You can see an example at; http://blog.scottsvettetalk.com/2008...placement.aspx
Not really clear on your question regarding flex lines, S/S covered flex lines are available in place of the plain rubber hoses.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Jan 13, 2008 at 11:51 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,990
From: Connecticut, USA
The aftermarket SS lines will need to be tweeked, they are not going to go in 100% with a little bit of play. They do fit though.
The brass blocks are about 8-$10 each but there are times when the original flared seat is distorted and will leak. They may never have leaked for 40 years but may after you install the new lines. Look real close at the seat or replace them. Me, since you're replacing everything anyway, would replace them. They're sold by all the vendors so take your pick.
I like the rubber hoses, I don't see much advantage in the SS other then looks. They swell on the ID as the stock ones do over time.
Get a set of Craftsman flare wrenchs, they're very good and easy to get. Use them on the brake lines. If you are using SS lines,put a dab of anti-seize under the flare nut- not in the line just under the head to lube it when you torque it down. The SS require more force to tighen the steel lines.
Get a new set of clips from any vendor as well.
Good luck
The brass blocks are about 8-$10 each but there are times when the original flared seat is distorted and will leak. They may never have leaked for 40 years but may after you install the new lines. Look real close at the seat or replace them. Me, since you're replacing everything anyway, would replace them. They're sold by all the vendors so take your pick.
I like the rubber hoses, I don't see much advantage in the SS other then looks. They swell on the ID as the stock ones do over time.
Get a set of Craftsman flare wrenchs, they're very good and easy to get. Use them on the brake lines. If you are using SS lines,put a dab of anti-seize under the flare nut- not in the line just under the head to lube it when you torque it down. The SS require more force to tighen the steel lines.
Get a new set of clips from any vendor as well.
Good luck
