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Fusible Link Replacement

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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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Default Fusible Link Replacement

One of the twin wires connecting to the battery terminal on the starter wires was really brittle and snapped when I went to reattach it to the solenoid just above the fusible link. Now I need to replace the wire and the fusible link. I figure I should change both wires and links, since the other wire is likely just a brittle or close.

I've got the wiring diagram and one is 20 to 16 and the other is 14 to 10.

Where do I get a fusible link? This happened tonight so all I've been able to do is search the net and none of the major vendors sell replacements. I want to do this tomorrow night or Saturday morning so shipping something is not really an option. Is there someplace local that would carry this?

If I understand this correctly this is just a standard solder in situation once I find the links.

Can anyone help or point me in the right direction for purchase and replacement?

'75 L-48 Automatic
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 12:01 AM
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Back when I was working in dealerships we had fusible link on rolls just like wire so we could make them up. You might try a NAPA parts store as they pretty much have or can get anything automotive. Hopefully you wont have to buy a 25 or 50 foot roll of it.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 12:17 AM
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The "fusible link" IS the smaller wire in series with the larger wire. All that did was provide a "last resort" site for an overload to melt a wire in an selected location in the harness. When a wire goes from, say, a 10 awg to a 14 awg and then back to 10awg, the 14 awg wire is the fusible link. It was cheaper to provide a selected location for a wire melt-down (where the risk of occurence was low) than to install a circuit breaker or other costly hardware. GM did this very effectively for may years, and not too many of these "links" failed before 25-30 years went by or there was a major malfunction in an alternator, etc or a dead-short in a harness. You can replace damaged fusible links by using the same strategy. However, I would not suggest putting your own fusible links wherever you want one; limit your use of them to duplicating the original design.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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I've purchased rolls of fusible link wire at AutoZone as recently as a couple years ago. It's not just wire per se, it actually has softer insulation that blisters and swells when it overheats. You can easily create a new fusible link by cutting out the damaged section of the old one and splicing or soldering in a new piece.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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I picked one up at autozone in the past. Whatever autostore you usually use should have them.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Don't mean to hijack this thread, but what would be wrong with installing a resettable circuit breaker in that circuit ?
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Aktbird
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but what would be wrong with installing a resettable circuit breaker in that circuit ?
nothing technically; make sure the connections are rated for the current and make them good. a few don't like additional connections due to added resistance. some say, fuse link not a problem why fix it . . .

carquest and others sell by ft as well as pre-packaged
advance, autozone, etc has pre-packaged
from memory: make about 6 in long

Last edited by S489; Jan 20, 2008 at 11:44 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 01:21 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

Friday night I made all the connections and got everything back in place.

The part that was messing me up was a plastic like material that has enclosing the connection. After checking out the connectors at the local autozone I think they may have been some sort of solderless connection or intentional identification mechanism.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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Default Autozone sells individual...

fusible links in various sizes. That's where I've bought mine. Solder it in, heat shrink the solder joint, and you're good to go.
I'd do a continuity check prior to sealing with the heat shrink.
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wjsullivan
Thanks for the replies.

Friday night I made all the connections and got everything back in place.

The part that was messing me up was a plastic like material that has enclosing the connection. After checking out the connectors at the local autozone I think they may have been some sort of solderless connection or intentional identification mechanism.
some factory links had a large "fat" spot in the wire. i'm told this is insulation. not sure if that is what you saw. glad it's fixed now
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