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Can someone tell me what the approx. Horse power of my engine would be? I now regret not getting it dyno tested before I installed it.
1974 350 L-48 engine
Bored .030 - making it 355
scat crank and rods - stock sizes
10 1/2 : 1 compression pistons
Comps cams 280H - Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
- Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
- Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
- Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
- Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230 int./230 exh.
- Advertised Intake Duration: 280
- Advertised Exhaust Duration: 280
- Advertised Duration: 280 int./280 exh.
- Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
- Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
- Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 int./0.480exh. lift
- Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Dart Iron Eagle Heads - 65cc
- 200cc runners
- 2.02 valves
1.6:1 pro comp aluminum full roller rockers - brings lift up to .512
pro comp stub girdles
Holley street Dominator intake
Holley 670 Street Avenger Carb
HEI Distributor
shorty header going into 2 1/2 exhaust to sidepies
4-speed tranny
3.36 rear gears
Go post in Billa's thread and ask him to run a desktop dyno for you. Take 10% of it and that will give you a better estimate than people throwing darts at your set up.
I think you'd have to use premium unleaded with that set up...cause that's all that's available without mixing in additives or race/areo fuel. My only concern is whether he can do that with 10.5:1 CR and IRON heads and not get predetonation. I think you could do it with alum. heads...I'm just not sure about getting it done with cast iron.
Can someone tell me what the approx. Horse power of my engine would be? I now regret not getting it dyno tested before I installed it.
1974 350 L-48 engine
Bored .030 - making it 355
scat crank and rods - stock sizes
10 1/2 : 1 compression pistons
Comps cams 280H - Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
- Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
- Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
- Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
- Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230 int./230 exh.
- Advertised Intake Duration: 280
- Advertised Exhaust Duration: 280
- Advertised Duration: 280 int./280 exh.
- Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
- Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
- Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 int./0.480exh. lift
- Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Dart Iron Eagle Heads - 65cc
- 200cc runners
- 2.02 valves
1.6:1 pro comp aluminum full roller rockers - brings lift up to .512
pro comp stub girdles
Holley street Dominator intake
Holley 670 Street Avenger Carb
HEI Distributor
shorty header going into 2 1/2 exhaust to sidepies
4-speed tranny
3.36 rear gears
The DCR is in the low 8's so I think you should be fine on pump premium.
360 HP at the flywheel is from a quicky DD2K model. I bet it runs pretty darn good.
That would definitely enhance acceleration rate (if you can keep the power to the ground). You will lose mpg and highway "comfort", but it you don't drive alot and aren't at 70 mph for very long, it should be a lot of fun.
It runs great, but always looking for a little more. I want to change the gears to 3.70s.
3.70's would be great but you may run out of RPMs quickly with the current setup. The big heads will help so you don't fall off too much over 5500 RPM. I suspect you are shifting at about 6000 RPM?
When you do the rear end gear swap it might be a good time to cam up a little. A small solid would be right in the zone IMHO.
stingr69 is right.I would cam up first.used a isky #201524 with same combo. It worked real good,or spend money on roller.If you drive 65mph with 4sp. your gears are perfect.I'd tune combo to those. pump gas no problem.don't know about your ignition,but MSD set-up is a great upgrade.