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I ordered a longer rear spring bolt set from VBP (the 10% discount for forum members is a plus!), what do I need to know before I grab the tools? My experience is mainly on cars with parallel leaf springs, so I don't want to start loosening things and have the body fly off or the spring fly out! Thanks in advance.
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by 1Fordman
I ordered a longer rear spring bolt set from VBP (the 10% discount for forum members is a plus!), what do I need to know before I grab the tools? My experience is mainly on cars with parallel leaf springs, so I don't want to start loosening things and have the body fly off or the spring fly out! Thanks in advance.
once you get the car in the air, youll need a c-clamp and a jack.
the idea is to place the c clamp on the spring, and position the jack in front of the clamp and jack up the spring enough to remove the pressure from the bolt. the clamp keeps the jack from sliding
Floor jack perpendicular to the spring, block of wood c-clamped to the spring near the end your are going to un-bolt, jack it up and use a saws-all to cut the bolt in two. Re-assemble.
I just did mine, took longer to gather all the tools and set up than it did to change out the bolt.
Who is VB&P, I've been using Ecklers and Mid America who both offered 10% prior to X-mas but havn't offered it since.
I just did this with 8" bolts. One trick you might need: If the old bolt is tilted enough that it won't slide up thru the upper hole in the mount when removing it, put a bottle jack under the wheel hub, and jack up the trailing arm a few inches. This should line up the holes better, than it's a quick change out.
I just did this with 8" bolts. One trick you might need: If the old bolt is tilted enough that it won't slide up thru the upper hole in the mount when removing it, put a bottle jack under the wheel hub, and jack up the trailing arm a few inches. This should line up the holes better, than it's a quick change out.
same here, I just did this also and it works. Also, if you have a fiberglass spring do not put the floorjack on the fiberglass! I put a 2x4 on top of my jack plate and let it catch the edge of the steel reinforcement on the end of the spring and jacked it there. Leave enough room for the bolt to go through the hole without hitting the block of wood.
What exactly is accomplished by installing a longer or shorter bolt?
Longer bolts lower the car.
The forum must be psychic. Yesterday I purchased a complete rear bushing set with new shock mounts and strut rod bolts. Today I log on to get some pointers and find this thread!!!
I did the passengers side this afternoon and dont have much to add...
To cut the bolt I used a Dremel with a metal cutting carbide blade.
why would you cut the bolt when all you have to do is take the nut off? I assume that the bracket has a hole on the top that the new bolt drops in from?? Too cold to go out in the garage, but i thought that the bracket was sealed at the top.My question is how does the new bolt go in?
why would you cut the bolt when all you have to do is take the nut off? I assume that the bracket has a hole on the top that the new bolt drops in from?? Too cold to go out in the garage, but i thought that the bracket was sealed at the top.My question is how does the new bolt go in?
The trailing arm has a largish hole at the top - that's how the bolt goes in and out.
The nuts are in a very exposed location and often rust-weld to the bolt. Cutting the bolt for removal is very common.
There is an article with photos in the C3 "tech tips" section. Click on the "other" tab located at the top of the forum menu. It's been a good source of info for me.