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Rear Spring Bolt Replacement

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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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Default Rear Spring Bolt Replacement

I ordered a longer rear spring bolt set from VBP (the 10% discount for forum members is a plus!), what do I need to know before I grab the tools? My experience is mainly on cars with parallel leaf springs, so I don't want to start loosening things and have the body fly off or the spring fly out! Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Fordman
I ordered a longer rear spring bolt set from VBP (the 10% discount for forum members is a plus!), what do I need to know before I grab the tools? My experience is mainly on cars with parallel leaf springs, so I don't want to start loosening things and have the body fly off or the spring fly out! Thanks in advance.
once you get the car in the air, youll need a c-clamp and a jack.

the idea is to place the c clamp on the spring, and position the jack in front of the clamp and jack up the spring enough to remove the pressure from the bolt. the clamp keeps the jack from sliding


tim
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 10:56 AM
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make sure you use a floor jack with preferably a block of wood. Don't use a bottle jack, the spring may fling it.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 11:20 AM
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Follow VB&P instructions! If you do not have them, call Patty, she will e-mail you a copy. They are great people to deal with!
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 12:27 PM
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Floor jack perpendicular to the spring, block of wood c-clamped to the spring near the end your are going to un-bolt, jack it up and use a saws-all to cut the bolt in two. Re-assemble.

I just did mine, took longer to gather all the tools and set up than it did to change out the bolt.


Who is VB&P, I've been using Ecklers and Mid America who both offered 10% prior to X-mas but havn't offered it since.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 12:31 PM
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http://www.vbandp.com/
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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Here's visual. This is pretty easy but be careful, there's a lot of energy stored in that spring.

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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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I just did this with 8" bolts. One trick you might need: If the old bolt is tilted enough that it won't slide up thru the upper hole in the mount when removing it, put a bottle jack under the wheel hub, and jack up the trailing arm a few inches. This should line up the holes better, than it's a quick change out.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 03:25 PM
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Thanks guys, this forum is awesome! You ask the question and you get great answers with photos.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by billsfan
I just did this with 8" bolts. One trick you might need: If the old bolt is tilted enough that it won't slide up thru the upper hole in the mount when removing it, put a bottle jack under the wheel hub, and jack up the trailing arm a few inches. This should line up the holes better, than it's a quick change out.
same here, I just did this also and it works. Also, if you have a fiberglass spring do not put the floorjack on the fiberglass! I put a 2x4 on top of my jack plate and let it catch the edge of the steel reinforcement on the end of the spring and jacked it there. Leave enough room for the bolt to go through the hole without hitting the block of wood.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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What exactly is accomplished by installing a longer or shorter bolt?
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by r44s
What exactly is accomplished by installing a longer or shorter bolt?
Longer bolts lower the car.

The forum must be psychic. Yesterday I purchased a complete rear bushing set with new shock mounts and strut rod bolts. Today I log on to get some pointers and find this thread!!!

I did the passengers side this afternoon and dont have much to add...

To cut the bolt I used a Dremel with a metal cutting carbide blade.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 06:58 PM
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why would you cut the bolt when all you have to do is take the nut off? I assume that the bracket has a hole on the top that the new bolt drops in from?? Too cold to go out in the garage, but i thought that the bracket was sealed at the top.My question is how does the new bolt go in?
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jim2527
The forum must be psychic.
Yes, and I feel another vision coming on........when you do the driver's side, I see a frozen bolt, cursing and beer.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by morganjd
why would you cut the bolt when all you have to do is take the nut off? I assume that the bracket has a hole on the top that the new bolt drops in from?? Too cold to go out in the garage, but i thought that the bracket was sealed at the top.My question is how does the new bolt go in?
The trailing arm has a largish hole at the top - that's how the bolt goes in and out.

The nuts are in a very exposed location and often rust-weld to the bolt. Cutting the bolt for removal is very common.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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You're right. If you have a rear sway bar then you will have to remove the bracket off the TA in order to slide the old bolt out/new bolt in.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by onearmblack
You're right. If you have a rear sway bar then you will have to remove the bracket off the TA in order to slide the old bolt out/new bolt in.
The bracket goes over the hole.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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There is an article with photos in the C3 "tech tips" section. Click on the "other" tab located at the top of the forum menu. It's been a good source of info for me.
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