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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 12:16 AM
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Default Idling problem

My 69 starts right up in the first cranking, but it would not idle without slightly stepping on the gas. After a few minutes of waiting and slight pumping on the gas pedal would make it start idling smooth.

What would I have to do to get it start idling right after starting the car?

I have a holly carb on a 502 motor.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 12:19 AM
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I know this sounds obvious...but have you checked the choke? Do you have an electric one or manual choke?
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteguy75
I know this sounds obvious...but have you checked the choke? Do you have an electric one or manual choke?
I was told that my carb does not have a choke.
Are you guys going to laugh at me now?
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rajsid
I was told that my carb does not have a choke.
Are you guys going to laugh at me now?
No, None of my cars have the choke set up. You can't expect it to idle when it's cold without a choke though. I keep my foot on the accelerator and keep the RPM's up to about 1300 until the engine temp reaches about 100 degrees. It will idle then and you can drive it.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by capevettes
No, None of my cars have the choke set up. You can't expect it to idle when it's cold without a choke though. I keep my foot on the accelerator and keep the RPM's up to about 1300 until the engine temp reaches about 100 degrees. It will idle then and you can drive it.

You don't HAVE to have a choke, but you must baby it when it's cold. That being said, if you DO have a choke it must be set up or adjusted properly for it to keep the engine running when it's below operating temps.

I have heard of guys using an A/C high idle solenoid on a switch to kick up the idle for when it's cold so you don't have to keep your foot in the gas until it warms up.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by capevettes
No, None of my cars have the choke set up. You can't expect it to idle when it's cold without a choke though. I keep my foot on the accelerator and keep the RPM's up to about 1300 until the engine temp reaches about 100 degrees. It will idle then and you can drive it.


the second/ next question is why, is it just not connected, or not functioning, or not there at all?

e.g I have a divorced choke, but when I put on the brodix heads, there is no water passage to allow coolant to flow through the intake so my choke though present does not function properly, so I have to do the throttle thing till it warms up.

find out why your choke is not working and maybe you can fix it. is it an electric choke or thermal? take a pic of the carb if you can
cheers


tim
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sweethence


the second/ next question is why, is it just not connected, or not functioning, or not there at all?

e.g I have a divorced choke, but when I put on the brodix heads, there is no water passage to allow coolant to flow through the intake so my choke though present does not function properly, so I have to do the throttle thing till it warms up.

find out why your choke is not working and maybe you can fix it. is it an electric choke or thermal? take a pic of the carb if you can
cheers


tim
The PO told me that the Holly carb that's in the car does not have a choke.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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[QUOTE=Durango_boy;1563773847 .............but you must baby it when it's cold.........

DB...this is exactly what i always do with all my engines:o ...then, when they're pretty warm, it's their turn to baby ME!
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by rajsid
The PO told me that the Holly carb that's in the car does not have a choke.

If thats the case then you can either keep feathering the throttle till its warm, Try DDB's solution ( neat trick BTW), or mod or replace the car.

No offense, but are you good with mechanical stuff? just curious so we know what level of assistance you might need.

Pic of the carb would still be nice just cause we love pics of Big Blocks

Last edited by sweethence; Jan 24, 2008 at 10:44 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sweethence
If thats the case then you can either keep feathering the throttle till its warm, Try DDB's solution ( neat trick BTW), or mod or replace the car.

No offense, but are you good with mechanical stuff? just curious so we know what level of assistance you might need.

Pic of the carb would still be nice just cause we love pics of Big Blocks
I am fairly mechanical although I have not worked on a carb before.
I will post a pic of the carb tonignt with the air cleaner off.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by sweethence
Pic of the carb would still be nice just cause we love pics of Big Blocks
Here are some pics of the carb...

I am not sure why that plastic tie is for in picture 2.
The carb sprays gas if I press on a little lever on the side. Isn't it the choke? So it does have a choke?





Last edited by rajsid; Jan 25, 2008 at 12:34 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 01:49 AM
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Well, you've got a choke. It's the single large tallest black butterfly valve (flap) in the pix. It looks like that plastic tie might be in there to tie the choke open. Sounds like some previous owner didn't want to fix the choke and would rather put up with fussing around with it while it was cold. I suspect if you take off that tie, the choke will flap around and give you trouble. It might have been done if the 502 has a manifold that doesn't have a heat riser mechanism for controlling the choke. You might be able to get an electric to fit, or you could add a choke cable like my old sports car and my current lawn mower have.

Either way, having a working choke will really clear up that rough time right after starting...

PS - the squirter thing is an accelerator pump for when you mash the throttle as you pass Mustangs.

Last edited by Z-man; Jan 25, 2008 at 01:52 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-man
Well, you've got a choke. It's the single large tallest black butterfly valve (flap) in the pix. It looks like that plastic tie might be in there to tie the choke open. Sounds like some previous owner didn't want to fix the choke and would rather put up with fussing around with it while it was cold. I suspect if you take off that tie, the choke will flap around and give you trouble. It might have been done if the 502 has a manifold that doesn't have a heat riser mechanism for controlling the choke. You might be able to get an electric to fit, or you could add a choke cable like my old sports car and my current lawn mower have.

Either way, having a working choke will really clear up that rough time right after starting...

PS - the squirter thing is an accelerator pump for when you mash the throttle as you pass Mustangs.





look closely, the choke you have is set up for a manual choke cable right now, probably why is zip tied off like that. the round thing with the set screw is where the cable would go. but it still a basic holley carb, and can be easily converted to an electric choke


cheers


tim

Last edited by sweethence; Jan 25, 2008 at 07:41 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 07:54 AM
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I install electric chokes on most of my projects.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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You guys are the greatest

Yes, the manifold does not have a heat riser mechanism.

How does an electric choke work? Will it turn on automatically everytime you start the car?

I actually love the lawn mower idea
I guess adding a choke cable to the existing manual choke would be easier. Are there any cable kits available?
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rajsid
You guys are the greatest

Yes, the manifold does not have a heat riser mechanism.

How does an electric choke work? Will it turn on automatically everytime you start the car?

I actually love the lawn mower idea
I guess adding a choke cable to the existing manual choke would be easier. Are there any cable kits available?

The electric choke is just a heat sensitive wound spring that contracts and expands based on temperature. It gets 12V switched when the engine is running where it is already set to cold start. As the coil warms up from the current, the spring moved the choke buttery fly for hot engine operation.



You would have more control using a manual choke cable but you would have to mount the push/pull switch somewhere inside, and run a cable to it.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
TYou would have more control using a manual choke cable but you would have to mount the push/pull switch somewhere inside, and run a cable to it.
Yeah,
I am not excited about drilling a hole in the firewall.
Is it pretty easy to wire an electrical choke?
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rajsid
Is it pretty easy to wire an electrical choke?

Yep. You can ground to the carb or manifold, and you can get switched 12V from the yellow wire int he wiper motor circuit, which is right there at the back of the engine bay.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rajsid
Yeah,
I am not excited about drilling a hole in the firewall.
Is it pretty easy to wire an electrical choke?
Yes - it's so easy even I could do it. What DB said - also, I think you can get a switched 12v from one of the alternator connections.
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