I am about to replace the carpet in my 78. I switched the exhaust to true duals and was wondering what the best sound/heat insulation is to use and is easy to install. What have some of you guys used?

 

I used a ceramic cloth kit for corvette america for heat and the sound issue is another point you will always have a low rumble in the car with any kind of header and pipe set up I use flow masters i guess its just part of the muscle car thing

 

i replaced my carpet last summer, bought one of those insulation heat kits from one of the vendors, it wasnt near enough, was very hot on the carpet and floorboard. i have dual exh. i ended up removing the carpet and install a product called reflectix, i bought it at Lowes, its in a roll, i put it everywhere i could, floorboards tunnel behind the seats, firewall. it really made things quieter and cooler, and it didnt cost a bundle. good luck,

 

I replaced my carpet last year and installed FatMat underlayment. It's practically the same thing as Dynamat but, much more affordable.

 

the sound is not so important as the heat is. Passenger floorboard used to get really warm. Does the Dynamat/Fatmat really work well? Vendor?

 

When I rebuilt my interior, I laid down thick layers of sound deadener (Fatmat/dynamat type stuff) first. On top of the sound deadener, I laid down reflectix insulation. Reflectix is essentially bubble wrap packing paper with a reflective coating that many forum users user under their carpets for heat insulation. You can cut it with a scissor and tape the sheets together with aluminum tape. All the parts can be bought at Lowes Home Improvement stores.

Take some pictures as you do it, it looks very cool when complete. Almost a shame to cover it up with carpet. Also, be sure to cover the entire floor with the stuff. If you do not have a complete barrier, the heat WILL travel around it and still get into the cabin. Under the seats, tranny tunnel, all of it.

When your done, your vette will be noticeably quieter, but probably a lot slower on the street. Be sure to go back and make sure your throttle is opening all the way up when the pedal is floored. C-3s are notorious for not getting full opening due to floor mats, etc.

Since you have to disassemble the car anyway to put the reflectix in, I would recommend you consider a sound insulator as well. Remember, if you decide you want it later, everything including your new heat insulation needs to come out again.

 

I installed products like these years ago along with flame proof interior carpeting


http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/high_temp_mat.php

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/heat_shield_mat.php

 

MidAmerica is selling carpet with a foil backed sound & heat sheilding underlay already attached. Anybody use this yet?

If you haven't bought the carpet yet this seems like a reasonable price for both the carpet and underlay. Since it is already one peice it should make installation easier as you only have to put it down once, not once for underlay and once for carpet.

 

I would be interested but since it looks like I am already the testbunny for the Pypes, dont want to be a testbunny twice..... anybody tried this carpet?

 

I left my original carpets and underlayment and wrapped my exhaust with Thermo-Tech material. It significantly reduced my interior temps. If you wrap the exhaust and install insulation under the carpets you may need to run your heater to stay warm.
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When you install the reflectix do you glue or tape it to the floor?
Also is it necessary to remove the padding that comes under the carpet in the footwell area so that the combination of carpet, padding and reflectix is not too thick?

 

When I installed mine, I cut it to form fit and then taped the seams together. The only areas that I taped to the car body was at the edges.

As for the jute that comes from the factory. I removed mine, but you can do what you like. Most people find that the reflectix provides a nice cushiony feel to the carpet as it is .24" thick and filled with air.

 

Admittedly I have never tried any of the home remedies for heat/sound control. I just use the products on the market. I recently ordered some Cascade Audio Vmax for a customer and was very pleased with it's construction. The shipment is going to Italy though, so I won't get to test it out. Vmax has thicker aluminum than Dynamat and tests better.

I'm also going to be trying out this new product called vertex barrier on a C6 with a loud exhaust. This material is closed cell foam and vinyl. It's designed to reduce road noise and exhaust noise. Both these products are geared towards the audio crowd but benefit normal people wanting heat and sound control.

Something to keep in mind that Dynamat's marketing firm doesn't want you to know. Dynamat and all those materials, including Vmax, do very little for road noise which is what most people want to control. Those products are known as dampeners. The reason they stick is to give the panel more density so they do not vibrate or rattle. Speakers and rough roads cause these issues.

A sound barrier, like Vertex barrier or jute backing, is known as a sound barrier. These type products control road and exhaust noise as that is not a result of a panel vibrating or rattling. Barriers are usually thick and the good ones are heavy. They also just lay down and do not stick to any panels. Taping, if possible, would be the method for making it stick.

Usually a combination of both these type products is best to use. However, a barrier will have the most affect on interior sound levels.

 

i used a product called zeroclearance from cool and quiet on my a/c box. it's an 1/8" thick ceramic material with adhesive on one side and thick foil on the other. the other day i road tested (afer 2years) my 70 rebuild. i had only the driver's side seat installed. the floor above the exhaust pipes was very warm, not so hot you couldn't touch it, but hot enough to make it uncomfortable. i'm going to install some of the zeroclearance to the bottom of the car above the pipes, and use aluminum strips (home depot) pop-riveted around the edges to help hold it in place. i think it's better to reflect the heat rather than trap it between the glass and the interior insulation.
jeff

 

i used this stuff http://www.insulation4less.com/prodex_Ffmf.asp
worked excellent, also used it on my garage door and really cutdown on the cold and roadnoise of the major street i live on

 

Use 3M spray-on bead adhesive [found in the same area as Reflectix at Home Depot]. Just spray a bit on the back of the piece you are installing, wait a few seconds until it's tacky and stick it down to the floor (make sure floor is clean). Use sticky-backed foil furnace tape [not duct tape, Bubba] to seal the butted-up sections. Reflectix is easy to work with...scissors is just fine...and really does the job. You won't need glue on the back of your carpeting, except on vertical areas (front cockpit firewall; back of seats. I didn't put any in the storage compartment area and haven't been sorry that I didn't.

 

were do you get the thermo-tech you used and is it expensive?

 

Header wrap 2" X 50' rolls is available at most auto supply stores for around $34 a roll. I bought some Thermo Tech brand from my local parts store and a few from Jegs. I used five rolls, maybe six to wrap my headers and pipes back to the mufflers. The link below will take you to many insulating materials to choose from http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...rm=header+wrap
This is the product I used
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_311506_-1

My pipes have been wrapped over a year now and they still look and function great. My motivation was a vapor lock problem in heavy traffic, as well as the intolerable interior temps. I can't claim any HP gain, but the interior stays much cooler. If I ever replace the carpets, I will place some additional insulation on the floor. From now on my cars will always have the pipes wrapped.

BTW, before wrapping the pipes I sprayed them with VHT high heat silver. After the pipes were installed and the posted picture was taken, I brush painted the wrap with remaining VHT silver. I didn't have enough to finish and decided to just use some aluminum paint I had available. The aluminum spray paint brushed on worked great and I wouldn't hesitate to put it over the header wrap in the future.

There is a technique to anchor the wrap material a first aid familiar person can use. You simply fold over the loose ear on start and wrap over it to keep it from unraveling. You will also need some s/s tie wraps. You can save a few buck by buying a bag of 25 at Harbor Freight for $4.99. The auto part stores get way more.

 

 

Im adding that to my things to do list this winter. Anything that will help elimante some of the heat,
Thanks for all the info