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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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Default Ammeter Test

Is there any way to determine if the ammeter is functioning properly? Mine has never worked and the dash is out right now so I'd like to fix/replace it if it's no good. It could very well be a wiring isssue but I'd like to eliminate the ammeter possibility first. Thanks

Rick
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 09:53 AM
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Here's a link from BarryK's site that should help.

http://www.lbfun.com/Corvette/Tech/v...g%20gauges.pdf

Thanks again BarryK for posting these.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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Thanks vettcrazy88 thats a lot of good information but I guess my question really is if the ammeter is not carrying the full amperage thru it to give a reading and is only sensing the difference in voltage between the alternator and the battery how can I test the ammeter to see if is working? The engine is out of the car right now so I can't use the charging system to help test the gauge and I don't want to put amperage thru the gauge to test it if it's not supposed to have amperage going thru it.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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That write-up is very good {I'm saving it}, but it doesn't address the question asked. To test the ammeter when it is out of the car, you need to do the following:
1) get a AA or AAA 1.5v. battery; 2) solder or tape a clip lead wire to the negative end of the battery; 3) connect the clip (-) to one of the terminals on the ammeter; then just tap and release the (+) tip on the battery to the other ammeter terminal while you are watching the dial face. If the needle on the ammeter swings [one direction or the other], the ammeter is 'good';if it doesn't move at all, the meter has problems.

P.S. If you find that the meter is defective OR you find it is OK but doesn't work when you put it back in the car, send me a PM for others suggestions on solving each particular issue. Generally, these problems can be solved at home for little cost.

Good luck.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 01:59 PM
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[QUOTE=7T1vette;1563809146]That write-up is very good {I'm saving it}, but it doesn't address the question asked. To test the ammeter when it is out of the car, you need to do the following:
1) get a AA or AAA 1.5v. battery; 2) solder or tape a clip lead wire to the negative end of the battery; 3) connect the clip (-) to one of the terminals on the ammeter; then just tap and release the (+) tip on the battery to the other ammeter terminal while you are watching the dial face. If the needle on the ammeter swings [one direction or the other], the ammeter is 'good';if it doesn't move at all, the meter has problems.




This method works....
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 03:34 PM
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My two cents.Take it to an old guy with a generator/alt. shop.Clip to machine,run up volts to check gauge for accuracy at all points.Then you now what you have.probabley do it for nothing when here's whats it for.take two minutes.don't know if other method proves much. only my two cents.When back in car check volts at alt./match to gauge.Wiring mite have small loss of current if good.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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7T1vette Thanks for the input I'll give it a try and let you know the results.

hogwash I don't have an alternator repair shop nearby so at this point I'm not able to try your suggestion. Thanks

Rick
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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No offense, Hogwash, but your method wouldn't really work on an ammeter. It would for a direct-reading voltmeter, however. If someone wanted to test the accuracy of [or calibrate] a C3 ammeter, one would have to set up a known current through the "shunt" wire in that car's wiring harness. It would be quite a task without proper equipment. But ammeter 'accuracy' isn't really the issue; it is merely a device to observe significant current draws/feeds so you can assess the performance of your battery charging system.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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7T1vette, I did the test as you said and the ammeter is no good. I tore it apart just to see how it works and the pin that rotates the needle was seized up inside the capsule that is surrounded by the copper winding.
I ordered a new one.
Thanks for the help!

Rick
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 11:13 PM
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I wish the 'news' had been better... but glad to have been a help to you. Much of the time, one of the thin connection wires [from the coil] is broken and can be jumpered or re-soldered. Not so with yours, however.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Default ammeter repair

once you determine an ammeter is bad (1969) , how does one fix it? the face is riveted on and there is no way to remove it with out drilling out the rivets, trying not to destroy an original part...Bob
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Buy a replacement ammeter. Most aftermarket Corvette parts places sell them to match each year's meter. I disassembled mine and fixed it...too long a process to describe here.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by corvtt1969
once you determine an ammeter is bad (1969) , how does one fix it? the face is riveted on and there is no way to remove it with out drilling out the rivets, trying not to destroy an original part...Bob
You can drill out the rivets and replace them with small screws. I think one of the previous threads about ammeter repair mentioned that small screws could be found at hobby shops that specialize in remote control cars, planes, etc. Once you open it up, if the only problem is an open wire, you can solder it back together. That was my problem. If the entire coil of wire looks bad, you'll need to find some equivalent wire and rewind the coil. There have been other posts on the forum within the past year detailing how to do this and where to find the correct wire (Radio Shack if I remember correctly). This is a doable repair if you are so inclined to do the research. I don't know how you could find correct replacement rivets if you need or want the gauge to be as original. If all you want is some type of gauge and don't care about originality, some folks have replaced the gauge with a volt meter from a mid 80's Chevy pickup. Supposed to be a close match.

Hope this helps.

DC
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