I had the original clock repaired. It ran on the bench for 2 weeks and kept very good time. Since it's been installed in the car, it works but only after the car has been running for 15 - 20 minutes. Sometimes I need to pull the adjustment **** out and let it snap back in to get it started though.

It will run fine while the car is running and will continue to work for an hour or so after the car is turned off. But then it stops.

Any thoughts?

 

Is your clock getting a full 12 volts with no voltage drop at the feed wire? What happens if the clock sees a lower voltage when it goes to rewind the points on the windup solenoid will slightly pit and then fiddling with the time set stem will get it to go. Has it been cold in your area lately? The oil in the clock mechanism will thicken up and put a drag on it when it needs to rewind.

Having been down this road with a few project cars I highly recommend the quartz conversions unless you need to stay original. They solve all of the problems associated with wind-up clocks.

 

I know many folks will disagree, but having had the clock in my '69 repaired a few times over the past 30-odd years, I bought a quartz replacement last year. It looks exactly like the original clock, and keeps perfect time. The only downside to originality is the sweep second hand moves smoothly like an electric wall clock. To me that's better than a clock that doesn't work.
Another advantage it that you don't have to fiddle with the adjustment after making the change to/from daylight savings time.
Cheers,
Pete

 

I had the clock in my '76 redone to a quartz over 20 years ago and it hasn't missed a beat yet.

 

i spent $100 for a quartz clock for my 70. didn't think about what happens when i use the battery disconnect switch. should have taken my wife out for a nice dinner with the money!
jeff

 

It has been cold here, but I have the same problem over the summer too. I had the same thought on a possible voltage drop when the car is not running. Should it be getting a full 12 volts? If it's not, will a quartz clock not have the same problem?

If it's not getting full 12 volts, what should be checked? I never have any trouble turning the starter so I don't suspect a bad battery.

I don't need to stay original, just want to if I can.

 

I'm not sure what you are referring to. I have both the quartz and a battery disconnect and haven't had any problem other than having to reset the clock.

 

I am curious how to bench test your clock. I am going to remove mine and try to fix it, but I don't know what type of power source to hookup.

Thanks...

 

jud
that's the point. if you use a battery disconnect, what difference does it make if the clock works or not?
jeff

 

Well at least you know what time it is when you're driving.

 

Hey, even if your clock doesn't work....it is exactly right twice a day!

 

I like the quartz conversion as well.

However, since the clock works on the bench AND works when the car is running plus an hour after, two things are possible.

First, the clock may be getting a switched 12V, the original clocks will run for a time without power which is what you describe.

Second the vibration of running the engine may make the ground work - that is when the car is still your ground may be not be adequate to rewind the clock.

 

If the clock doesn't work at least it's accurate twice a day !!!

 

The person who repaired it used a variable power supply that could put out 12 volts. I don't know what kind or brand. Wish I could be more helpful. Hopefully, someone else will jump in and give you better info. I suppose you could ask at an AutoZone and "borrow" one from them.

 

12 volts is 12 volts. Just connect a 9 volt battery and two 1.5 volt 'C' or 'D' cells together in series and you'll have 12 volts. The clock doesn't take much current to run it anyway. That setup will work just fine for testing it out.

From your description, I would suggest you do two things: first, put a very small bit of watch oil on all of the spindle bushings that you can reach; second, check out the integrity of the winding solenoid and its contacts. Be careful when you do your oiling so that you don't damage the balance wheel/spring mechanism...if you damage that, you're DONE. For the winding solenoid....there are two contacts; one fixed and one that travels as the clock winds down. When the contacts touch, 12v. power "kicks" the solenoid and it winds the spring mechanism for about 2 minutes of operation. These contacts can get dirty or they can fatigue so that they don't make good contact. See which problem you have and fix it appropriately. You can't really use epoxy to fix a fatigued contact, because it won't transfer electricity. You have to have it brazed or use some metallic content epoxy which will conduct electricty. Good luck. P.S. ZIP products sells a standard clock rebuild kit for about $70 or so. It is easy to do, once you have the clock out, and you end up with an original 'acting' clock.