Horrible paint job question
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From: hazlet nj
Horrible paint job question
My ex-friend, painted my vette very badly. Can I scuff the body over and repaint or should I strip the entire car? I'm not looking for a show paint job but it should be presentable. thanks
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From: hazlet nj
Re: Horrible paint job question (daniel77350)
I probably will, I just can't believe I wasted $1500 on such a crappy paint job. He tells me it isn't that bad for the money paid. I considering small claims court.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Orlando Floriduh
Re: Horrible paint job question (andre77)
What kind of paint is it? what kind of problems do you have? Sometimes a poor paint job can be saved by 600-1200 wet sanding and buffing. :yesnod:
Burning Brakes
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From: waller texas
Cruise-In I Veteran
Re: Horrible paint job question (silvervetteman)
I agree with silvervette.It depends why you say it is bad paint job.Does it have runs or what?If it was a base coat clear coat then alot of problems can be repaired just by wet sanding.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Semper ubi, sub ubi
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Horrible paint job question (andre77)
I agree with the other guys, unless the paint is just absolutely horrible, it probably can be saved by block sanding with 1000/1200/1500 wet sandpaper. Heck, even small runs can be sanded out. Don't give up on it until an expert looks at it and says it isn't worth saving.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Casa Grande AZ
Re: Horrible paint job question (andre77)
When you say dirt, do you mean dirt particles that are a different color? Like black specs under the clear. Or just bumpy nibs in the clear?
If it's just nibs then you can sand and buff like the others have suggested to smooth the surface. If it's actually visible colored dirt then you're still gonna see it after buffing but it might still be acceptable if it's just a few specks after buffing. Anybody who would spray a pearl job for $1500.00 probably doesn't want to put time (read $$) into sanding and buffing. The materials cost on the last pearl job I did was almost a grand. Also, pearl is a little harder to spray and multiplies the possibility of seeable contaminates because there is alot of clear and transluscent coats. I would say if you were to spray outside of a booth it's probably impossible to not have a few dirt specks in the completed (and buffed) finish.
It's amazing what you can sand out of the surface making a crap job into a pretty nice one. Try a fender or door and see what it looks like.
If it's just nibs then you can sand and buff like the others have suggested to smooth the surface. If it's actually visible colored dirt then you're still gonna see it after buffing but it might still be acceptable if it's just a few specks after buffing. Anybody who would spray a pearl job for $1500.00 probably doesn't want to put time (read $$) into sanding and buffing. The materials cost on the last pearl job I did was almost a grand. Also, pearl is a little harder to spray and multiplies the possibility of seeable contaminates because there is alot of clear and transluscent coats. I would say if you were to spray outside of a booth it's probably impossible to not have a few dirt specks in the completed (and buffed) finish.
It's amazing what you can sand out of the surface making a crap job into a pretty nice one. Try a fender or door and see what it looks like.
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Verdad Gallardo
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Re: Horrible paint job question (andre77)
If the defects are in the basecoat, such as mottled "tigerstriping" effects and dirt that shows up as dark spots, there is little you can do but repaint. If the defects are in the clear, such as orange peel, dirt "nubbers" sticking up, etc., you can sand out the clear with 1500 grit wet and buff the car out.
If you elect to repaint, you can scuff the car down and re-shoot, but thick paint with lots of buildup will suffer in long-term durability. In the long run, you're best off sanding off as much of the buildup as practical to reduce the total mil-thickness of the paint.
If you elect to repaint, you can scuff the car down and re-shoot, but thick paint with lots of buildup will suffer in long-term durability. In the long run, you're best off sanding off as much of the buildup as practical to reduce the total mil-thickness of the paint.
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From: hazlet nj
Re: Horrible paint job question (lars)
Thanks for the info. I'll run the suggestions by my uncle (who I should've used originally) who will work on it. As far as the other guy, I feel so cheated! :boxing
