71 headllight actuar replace
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 145
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From: round rock tx
71 headllight actuar replace
The drivers headlight door does not open when the lights come on. It does open a little bit and then you put your finger under the lip and lift it up.
The actuar boot is deteriorated and the threaded adjustment rod is stuck. The passenger side works fine and the only other vacuum problem is that the vacuum reservoir does not hold pressure.
Is ther a way to repair this actuar(or problem) without buying a new one for $100 at Ecklers, and then not have it be the problem?
Larry
The actuar boot is deteriorated and the threaded adjustment rod is stuck. The passenger side works fine and the only other vacuum problem is that the vacuum reservoir does not hold pressure.
Is ther a way to repair this actuar(or problem) without buying a new one for $100 at Ecklers, and then not have it be the problem?
Larry
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Before you go to the expense and trouble of buying/replacing the actuator, try a simple "swap". Swap the lines for each headlight system to the opposite side...right to left; left to right. Then operate to see if you get the same response or the problem swaps with the lines. If the problem stays the same (same side as before), go ahead and buy the actuator. If it swaps, there is another problem in [or ahead of] the feed lines going to the actuator and you need to do more investigation.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
I got the same problem a while ago, The clevis was rusted and it broke when I tried to unscrew it from the shaft, ended buying a new actuator from Corvette central (way cheaper than Eckelrs).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: round rock tx
Hi 7T1,
Great idea and it didn't work, so off to corvette central (recomendation from Hamm up and Hammerhead)
Thanks all for the tips, will talk to you'll later when I put the Acutaor on.
Larry
Great idea and it didn't work, so off to corvette central (recomendation from Hamm up and Hammerhead)
Thanks all for the tips, will talk to you'll later when I put the Acutaor on.
Larry
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 19,352
Likes: 654
From: Tampa, Florida
Larry, dont run off just yet....
There's a specfic test you can run to determine if a rebuild kit will solve your problem of if you need a new actuator.
http://www.corvette-101.com/
Also you need to determine why your tank isnt holding vacuum.
Are the hoses bad?.....Easy fix!!
Is the tank cracked or rusted through?....Your F'kd...the entire under hood brake system needs to be removed if your going to fix/replace the tank. With power brakes the booster needs to come out and its accessed under the dash with 4 nuts on the firewall.
There's a specfic test you can run to determine if a rebuild kit will solve your problem of if you need a new actuator.
http://www.corvette-101.com/
DESCRIPTION: Pie pan shaped with a single internal diaphragm attached to a threaded shaft that is visible externally. The threaded shaft is protected by a cone shaped boot. Each actuator has 2 vacuum ports. The front port is straight and identified by a green dot; the rear port is curved and identified by a red dot
LOCATION: Mounted to the rear of each headlamp housing with 4 flanged lock nuts.
FUNCTION: The headlamp actuators open or close the headlamp doors. More specifically, the green hose opens the headlamp doors and red closes them.
TROUBLESHOOTING: Perform the following two steps in order.
1. With headlamps in the closed position, disconnect the large red hose and attach the vacuum pump. If the vacuum pressure holds, the internal diaphragm is good. If the vacuum pressure drops, the internal diaphragm is leaking and the actuator must be replaced.
2. With the headlamps in the open and locked position (if the headlamps will not open normally, try opening them manually by pushing them up from the front underside of the vehicle), disconnect the large green hose and attach the vacuum pump. If vacuum pressure holds, the internal diaphragm and rear sealing grommet are both good. If the vacuum pressure drops, replace the grommet. NOTE: If you do not open the headlamps prior to this test, applying vacuum to the port should slowly open the headlamps until they are completely open. At this point this port should hold a vacuum.
LOCATION: Mounted to the rear of each headlamp housing with 4 flanged lock nuts.
FUNCTION: The headlamp actuators open or close the headlamp doors. More specifically, the green hose opens the headlamp doors and red closes them.
TROUBLESHOOTING: Perform the following two steps in order.
1. With headlamps in the closed position, disconnect the large red hose and attach the vacuum pump. If the vacuum pressure holds, the internal diaphragm is good. If the vacuum pressure drops, the internal diaphragm is leaking and the actuator must be replaced.
2. With the headlamps in the open and locked position (if the headlamps will not open normally, try opening them manually by pushing them up from the front underside of the vehicle), disconnect the large green hose and attach the vacuum pump. If vacuum pressure holds, the internal diaphragm and rear sealing grommet are both good. If the vacuum pressure drops, replace the grommet. NOTE: If you do not open the headlamps prior to this test, applying vacuum to the port should slowly open the headlamps until they are completely open. At this point this port should hold a vacuum.
Are the hoses bad?.....Easy fix!!
Is the tank cracked or rusted through?....Your F'kd...the entire under hood brake system needs to be removed if your going to fix/replace the tank. With power brakes the booster needs to come out and its accessed under the dash with 4 nuts on the firewall.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
I am not sure, but I think if your car is a '70-'72 model, you can reach the tank after removing the drivers side egg-crate louver. Or maybe removing the splash guard would help as well.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: round rock tx
Thanks Jim2527,
I just came back from autozone where they lent me a pump and the actuator does not hold pressure. The other actuator did hold pressure, so I can believe it.
Why the tank is not holding pressure? It is in good shape, no rust that I can see and the hoses are good. I replaced the wiper actuator and control valve last year and they are working fine.
The plastic door on the bottom of the filter is missing, but I did not think that has anything to do with the vacuum tank itself.
'
Larry
I just came back from autozone where they lent me a pump and the actuator does not hold pressure. The other actuator did hold pressure, so I can believe it.
Why the tank is not holding pressure? It is in good shape, no rust that I can see and the hoses are good. I replaced the wiper actuator and control valve last year and they are working fine.
The plastic door on the bottom of the filter is missing, but I did not think that has anything to do with the vacuum tank itself.
'
Larry
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 145
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From: round rock tx
Thanks Hamm up,
I have had the guard out several times and this time I will look at the tank position and see if I can work it out.
Taking of the power brake booster and lines is the last option I would try, and only then if I was desperate.
Larry
I have had the guard out several times and this time I will look at the tank position and see if I can work it out.
Taking of the power brake booster and lines is the last option I would try, and only then if I was desperate.
Larry
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
Hope it'll be an easy fix. My car has manual brakes so it was much easier for me to remove it, since the brake m/c is held by only two studs and it can be moved around abit with the brake lines still attached. I just thought about getting the tank out from underneath through splash guard when I checked it in the AIM, the vapor canister will be there on your way, so you also may have to move it away.
Before doing anything, you may just test it again carefully, the tank is really hidden from any moisture and I don't think it would rust easily, mine was in a perfect condition.
Before doing anything, you may just test it again carefully, the tank is really hidden from any moisture and I don't think it would rust easily, mine was in a perfect condition.
