Removable Crossmember Best Design
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: hampden ma
Removable Crossmember Best Design
ok...i think i was asking the wrong question yesterday
...what i need to know is what is the best removeable crossmember design you guy have seen over the years....strictly for the original 4 spd at this point
thanks, fred
...what i need to know is what is the best removeable crossmember design you guy have seen over the years....strictly for the original 4 spd at this point thanks, fred
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
I like the above design, thats all you really need.
Once I get bored I want to do something like below to make the entire trans xmember removable. This isn't the muncie but its a neat looking xmember.
First time I have to pull my trans I'll do it like the pic above.
Enjoy.....
Once I get bored I want to do something like below to make the entire trans xmember removable. This isn't the muncie but its a neat looking xmember.
First time I have to pull my trans I'll do it like the pic above.
Enjoy.....
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 119
From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
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...i think i have my solution!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
I too borrowed form the work here... To mount a ROD 6 speed...
I used my cnc plasma cutter and made 4 bolts per end... verticals are 3/8 mild steel tube is 2x3x0.125 rectangular...
I also W braced the trans cross member to the frame rails with 1x2 and to the rear member with 2x2 and mounted the seats via standoffs to this subframe.
I used my cnc plasma cutter and made 4 bolts per end... verticals are 3/8 mild steel tube is 2x3x0.125 rectangular...
I also W braced the trans cross member to the frame rails with 1x2 and to the rear member with 2x2 and mounted the seats via standoffs to this subframe.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 33
From: ct
I just put the stock auto. crossmember on my road race project this past week end. The body is off but even with it on it's a simple install. I also did one in our 74 like OzzyTom did. I did it for a Richmond 6 speed. Either way is pretty simple. I'll never understand why GM did not do this in 63 when they stared this frame. Pulling a trans is a snap without that crossmember in the way.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I find the exhaust is more of a PIA to work with than anything, so to stop leaks and ticking, I had it welded up years ago....got tired of getting it rewelded if I had to do any tranny work...due to that damn crossmember...so....
My car being a muncie car originally, years ago I cut the crossmember about 3" from each end....got some angle iron welded on to position it when going back in, and hole from topside allowing to slip back to remove...with a grade 8 1/2 inch diameter bolt and nylon nut on it going fore/aft.....that holds it fine on each side....
so for the middle there still were those two holes in there capturing the pipes, the cure is to cut the bottom of the loops out and back at an angle, the fill in the open channel with 1/8 inch steel plates then put a 1" wide plate down the center of the top loop oriented fore/aft....
then cap the plate with steel to the sides you just closed up...making an up and over reinforced arch out of the loop....it comes down about an inch or so from the original height, but the pipes hang maybe 1/2 inch lower...so what....
i'ts cheeeeep, and it works, just wish I had done it years ago instead of last year....
My car being a muncie car originally, years ago I cut the crossmember about 3" from each end....got some angle iron welded on to position it when going back in, and hole from topside allowing to slip back to remove...with a grade 8 1/2 inch diameter bolt and nylon nut on it going fore/aft.....that holds it fine on each side....
so for the middle there still were those two holes in there capturing the pipes, the cure is to cut the bottom of the loops out and back at an angle, the fill in the open channel with 1/8 inch steel plates then put a 1" wide plate down the center of the top loop oriented fore/aft....
then cap the plate with steel to the sides you just closed up...making an up and over reinforced arch out of the loop....it comes down about an inch or so from the original height, but the pipes hang maybe 1/2 inch lower...so what....
i'ts cheeeeep, and it works, just wish I had done it years ago instead of last year....
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 725
Likes: 1
From: FL.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 10
From: Big Pine Key FL
triangulation of transmission xmember to frame rail and new frame sections running either side of the driveshaft that carry the seats and the drive shaft saftey loop.
these form a pair of W's or M's under each seat... fundamentally the same as a X brace but modified to support the seats via the frame, the drive shaft saftey loops, and the light weight traction bar setup.
these form a pair of W's or M's under each seat... fundamentally the same as a X brace but modified to support the seats via the frame, the drive shaft saftey loops, and the light weight traction bar setup.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
I like the removable crosemembers I've seen here...But getting my welder buddy to come to my house...or get the car to him-Just hasn't happened.
So- I thought about this design-can easily be done w/o any welding to the car-Just a cut and drilling. Take the frame piece to his shop and he can weld it up in no time.
What do you think?
So- I thought about this design-can easily be done w/o any welding to the car-Just a cut and drilling. Take the frame piece to his shop and he can weld it up in no time.
What do you think?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 895
Likes: 4
From: whitman massachusetts
crossmember
I have to agree with Mr Vette that the exhaust removal can be as bad as the transmission. I did some mods to my crossmember, to facilitate one piece system removal. I have not tested my modification, under engine torque, as my restoration is not complete, but I am confident it will be secure. I have saved detailed pictures to my hardrive, if anyone cares to take a look, or perhaps post them on the site to help guide others.
