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I have just purchased a 78 L-82 with unkown mileage. The previous owner(s) have replace the factory manifold with headers. They did not do a great job of this as it seems they simply ripped out all of the emission control items that were factory--lots of cut vacuum hoses. My question is am I better off going back to the factory manifold, AIR system, and replacing all of the emission control items they gutted. The headers are in really bad shape and will need to be removed either way. The car runs very rough and has trouble idling--especially when cold.
Take a sec to fill out your profile so we can see where you live. If you were in California, then the suggestion would be to put it all back to stock. However, great gains can be had by removing the stock exhaust system and replacing it with better flowing exhaust.
It usually takes a lifetime to figure out what the previous owners do to the cars we buy. We call all previous owners, Bubba, because they never do anything right, and it's a PITA to fix it all.
However, use this opportunity to make some changes that will increase the performance and enhance your enjoyment of the car.
Can you post some pics of the car, the engine, and the problem areas liek cut hoses and such?
I have headers and side pipes on my 77. I took off the emmissions parts and mine runs great. If your car is running rough, check all vacum hoses for any leaks, then do a good tune-up. I agree that if you live in California or a state that inspects for emmissions, then put it all back to stock.
Thanks for the response. I am not in California or a metro area requiring some high powered emissions control so that is not a real concern. My main concern is will the car run well without the emission control systems in place as factory designed? Another question--how do you get the engine to run well from a cold start without the heat riser system?--this is gone also as the headers do not have this installed. Parts missing are AIR pump, EFE actuator, ERG actuator, and all associated vacuum hosed--catalytic converter is still installed. Carb has plugged vacuum ports all around. Not sure which of these is essential to the car idling properly or cold starting. Also has upgrade high voltage distributor in place of factory system.
All I do is pump it two or three times and it starts. Once the car is warm, it starts right away. My old heat riser never worked anyways!! I was thinking of going to a manual choke but so far mine seems to work all right. The engine doesn't know if it has emmission controls on it, it's the same block they used before 1974. If the car is tuned properly, I don't think you will have any problems, the car will breath better, your performance will increase and imho, the engine will last longer and cleaner.
I would get a good vacuum line diagram and figure out what went where. In my experience, emissions carbs don't run well if you just plug all the lines. Some are vent, some vacuum, etc.
removing the egr will definately mess up the mixture, unless the previous owner corrected for this.
your description indicates more wrong with tune than just this though
It should run and idle fine w/o the emissions stuff if set up properly but you need an electric choke for cold weather and to compensate for lack of EFE. Small tube at front of carb and angled down is for choke pull-off. Need vacuum advance too. EGR and AIR doesn't matter. Exhaust sounds bizarre - headers into a single cat? You can run full dual exhaust - probably need to go up 2 jet sizes.
It should run and idle fine w/o the emissions stuff if set up properly but you need an electric choke for cold weather and to compensate for lack of EFE. Small tube at front of carb and angled down is for choke pull-off. Need vacuum advance too. EGR and AIR doesn't matter. Exhaust sounds bizarre - headers into a single cat? You can run full dual exhaust - probably need to go up 2 jet sizes.
Yes, exhaust is strange--all welded so it will be a real issue to get off--cut, cut, cut. I plan to replace it all. I read the post on timing at the top of the forum--lots of good info and I think that may be a large part of my issue. I do have the vacuum advance distributor, but I am not sure if it is working properly. Also have the vacuum actuated choke pulloff system--it seems to be in bad shape also.
removing the egr will definately mess up the mixture, unless the previous owner corrected for this.
your description indicates more wrong with tune than just this though
yes, EGR is not connected and one of the vacuum ports is broken off. How could I tell if this was compensated for? The EFE actuator looks like someone put a hammer to it--broke off clean at the thermostat housing.
I would get a good vacuum line diagram and figure out what went where. In my experience, emissions carbs don't run well if you just plug all the lines. Some are vent, some vacuum, etc.
Have the GM assembly manual with fairly good pics of what vacuum line goes where--but most of the "where" is missing.
Take a sec to fill out your profile so we can see where you live. If you were in California, then the suggestion would be to put it all back to stock. However, great gains can be had by removing the stock exhaust system and replacing it with better flowing exhaust.
It usually takes a lifetime to figure out what the previous owners do to the cars we buy. We call all previous owners, Bubba, because they never do anything right, and it's a PITA to fix it all.
However, use this opportunity to make some changes that will increase the performance and enhance your enjoyment of the car.
Can you post some pics of the car, the engine, and the problem areas liek cut hoses and such?
I think this one had a team of "Bubbas" working on it. Sort of strange--exterior in reasonable shape (no evidence of wreck or body work), interior looks worn, but what I would expect for age. But engine is another story--looks like several Bubbas with little experience and low cash flow attempted to achieve a professional performance job with several quick and cheap changes instead of doing it right. Not sure what I will find once I really get into the meat of this thing--but I bought it knowing that anyway, right? Engine was rebuild in 93 and I am not real sure if the cam/pistons/valves were upgraded at that time or not--sort of makes it hard to solve some of these mysteries. My wife says this is a disease. My 7 year old call it the "death trap". My teenagers think this is the coolest thing they have seen.
it's been a while, so without looking up, it goes something like this. the egr system let exhaust gas into the intake manifold at certain times based on engine load above some minimum water temp. besides the objective of that, it obviously affected the carb mixture. so something in the carb was changed to compensate. at least that was how it was in the earlier models.
i'm not familiar with the specifics of correcting this on a 78 (?) model, but if it were an earlier version, you might start with the jet, metering rod, and air bleed sizes of a non-egr version to get pretty close with the carb metering. a buddy with an earlier version carb had removed the egr with no changes to the carb, and it ran too rich, but it ran.
maybe someone who has done this on a 78(?)-(?) will chime in . . .
It should run and idle fine w/o the emissions stuff if set up properly but you need an electric choke for cold weather and to compensate for lack of EFE. Small tube at front of carb and angled down is for choke pull-off. Need vacuum advance too. EGR and AIR doesn't matter. Exhaust sounds bizarre - headers into a single cat? You can run full dual exhaust - probably need to go up 2 jet sizes.
I do plan to replace the entire exhaust system--and yes, I think I will replace it with full dual exhaust. I am new at this--what "jets" need to go up 2 sizes?
it's been a while, so without looking up, it goes something like this. the egr system let exhaust gas into the intake manifold at certain times based on engine load above some minimum water temp. besides the objective of that, it obviously affected the carb mixture. so something in the carb was changed to compensate. at least that was how it was in the earlier models.
i'm not familiar with the specifics of correcting this on a 78 (?) model, but if it were an earlier version, you might start with the jet, metering rod, and air bleed sizes of a non-egr version to get pretty close with the carb metering. a buddy with an earlier version carb had removed the egr with no changes to the carb, and it ran too rich, but it ran.
maybe someone who has done this on a 78(?)-(?) will chime in . . .
Thanks. The carb has "remanufactured" on the side so I am sure this is not the factory carb. Not sure if this was put on at the same time as the emission stuff was gutted--so it may be adjusted for this already.
there is a number stamped on the driver side of the carb, oriented vertically, beginning with a "70" or "170". if you can post that, we can decode to get an idea of what it came off of . . .
I do plan to replace the entire exhaust system--and yes, I think I will replace it with full dual exhaust. I am new at this--what "jets" need to go up 2 sizes?
q-jet rods and jets mostly need to go up or down together, unless you need to richen or lean say just the idle, or cruise . . .
holley demon different
Check out upcoming car shows....Corvette shows, if you can find them. Anyone with a stock '78 will be glad to show you the vacuum line routing and what they go to. Otherwise, it's go to several manuals and sort it all out.