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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
So, have you lined up the usual suspects yet? If you'll post up on what's in order and what's not, we can better help nail this down for you. (My apologies for asking if I missed it.)
My engine is rebuilt with around 3,000 miles on the parts....You mention getting a good seal in the front.....My friend took a piece of foam n filled in the 2" gap between the radiator n the support sealing it with duck tape dropping the temps a few degrees....He also mentioned to look into a front spoiler or air dam....What do u think....Thanx...Jerrylee///
Alot of guys are running the spal set up rated @ 2,780 cfm's n I'm running the flex rated @ 2,500....Could the extra 280 cfm's possibly make the differance...Thanx...Jerrylee///
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
It's vital to seal the nose off from the engine compartment to force air thru the rad rather than allowing it to escape around it. If your stock lower rad extension (the little black "air dam" lip beneath the nose) is missing, that's another item to address, especially if the portion between the lower valance panel and rad is missing.
A Pace Car type shouldn't be necessary, but would be a plus. If non-stock, make sure a keep the lower isolation piece mentioned above. IMHO, I wouldn't install one w/o a rear spoiler also.
If you have a decent seal and good lower lip, but still experience cooling issues, go down the list to the next easiest and/or least expensive item and keep eliminating stuff until the problem goes away. You'll get there.
edit - that small a difference shouldn't matter that much in motion, if at all. Is air leaking around your fan?
Hi skunk, do you have a pic of that piece? I would bet I don't have one and I'm constantly battling to stay below 225 I was goingto get a new DeWitts kit w/ Spal fans, which I probably will still do but if I can solve by doing a fwe minor thing that should be there anyway I'd like to.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Dantana
Hi skunk, do you have a pic of that piece? I would bet I don't have one and I'm constantly battling to stay below 225 I was goingto get a new DeWitts kit w/ Spal fans, which I probably will still do but if I can solve by doing a fwe minor thing that should be there anyway I'd like to.
Thanks.
If we're on the same page, here's a link to one that fits 1973-1979...
I cant believe the stock cooling system of a BB with A/C will be sufficient in a hot 95-100F day at all. When I had my stock cooling system, it was really battling to keep the engine below 210F and the A/C was off all the time, I wouldn't dare to switch it on at all!
Again this is worth a thousand words to the un-believers....
This Camaro is one that GM never built nor did the Yenkos, Bergers and the rest of the dealer transplants. Possibly because of the obtainable RPM`s and a Turbo 400. Here's what I did with a new crate actual "IP" L72 427. I created a Factory air 425/427 with the turbo 400 in the 1968. The only L72`s that year by GM were 4 speeds and NO AC. or turbos. I show you this as it`s one of my favorites because of it`s cold air and zero cooling problems such as you have experienced and thats even without your AC on.
jerrylee the front end of a C3 will flow plenty of air but you have to have the area between the radiator and the hood sealed as well as the other areas that have already been mentioned.
My BB has never over heated on me and I have an A/C coupe with the 7 blade fan with clutch. It is not the original fan with the fingers but it definitely does the trick.
Right now my temps are ok hanging around the 190/200 mark..It's just that about an hour into the ride they gradually climb up pushing close to 220....Plus the temps are only in the 40's outside..The warm weather didn't even get here yet.....
If you have a 4 row copper/brass rad,it maybe just lower tube clogging,depending on how old your rad is....could you best describe your cooling system to us.....ie...size of radiator,clutch fan,etc...????
What happens over time is the clutch fan gets weaker due to heat or....your rad slowly accumulates materials that reduces the efficiency of the radiator....these systems require a free flowing radiator...
The remedy may just be rodding out the radiator..but you must provide some more info for us to determine cause...
It's vital to seal the nose off from the engine compartment to force air thru the rad rather than allowing it to escape around it. If your stock lower rad extension (the little black "air dam" lip beneath the nose) is missing, that's another item to address, especially if the portion between the lower valance panel and rad is missing.
A Pace Car type shouldn't be necessary, but would be a plus. If non-stock, make sure a keep the lower isolation piece mentioned above. IMHO, I wouldn't install one w/o a rear spoiler also.
If you have a decent seal and good lower lip, but still experience cooling issues, go down the list to the next easiest and/or least expensive item and keep eliminating stuff until the problem goes away. You'll get there.
edit - that small a difference shouldn't matter that much in motion, if at all. Is air leaking around your fan?
On my '68 BB I have lowered the front license plate and holder by 8" to 10" leaving the area un-obstructed for extra air flow. This has reduced the temperature on cruise by a few degrees. I have previously used the Redline Water Wetter. This dropped temp. down a few degrees. No-one seems to know what cfm the stock clutch fan with shroud flows (compared with Spall set-up)
I'm running one of the Dewitts radiators with a dual 12" fan from Flex-a-lite...#210...I have a new Edelbrock water pump n my stat is new n working......I guess I will have to do a little better job of sealing the engine bay plus install the air dam.....Jerrylee///
thanks guys this is a great read for me since i will be running a warmed over bb. i was just going to jump in and go right to the dewitts and better fans. now i might just use the stock rad that has been redone and add some nice electric fans and sealing. thanks
The engine and trans is only half of this Camaro. Thats what makes it move, and very very good by the way. As you noticed the L72 427, it is a real suffix "IP" 1966 427 crate engine in totally stock condition just as it came out of the crate with no vin number on the pad. The car is a SS 325/396 that made the heart transplant simple. I added a 3000 stall converter with a tricked up T400 driving into a 4.11 posi gear. The car is originally from Arkansas and has a totally rust free un hit body with all its original sheet metal. A well optioned car that I have owned since 1980 including AC, PS, PB, counsel, gauge's, tick-tock tach, stero, tinted glass, shoulder belts, vinyl roof, rally sport, and lighting and interior package. The deluxe interior has been highlighted and replaced by a all leather interior that Al made for me in a picture below. The exhaust we custom bent is 2 1/2 into Walker Dynomax`s mufflers and 2 1/4 out the back. The color is a rare 1968 optional "OO" Corvette Bronze. Hands aluminum wheels with Goodyear GT Eagles 215-65R-15`s finished it off. It drives like a new Camaro too. The result is one of only one.
The engine and trans is only half of this Camaro. Thats what makes it move, and very very good by the way. As you noticed the L72 427, it is a real suffix "IP" 1966 427 crate engine in totally stock condition just as it came out of the crate with no vin number on the pad. The car is a SS 325/396 that made the heart transplant simple. I added a 3000 stall converter with a tricked up T400 driving into a 4.11 posi gear. The car is originally from Arkansas and has a totally rust free un hit body with all its original sheet metal. A well optioned car that I have owned since 1980 including AC, PS, PB, counsel, gauge's, tick-tock tach, stero, tinted glass, shoulder belts, vinyl roof, rally sport, and lighting and interior package. The deluxe interior has been highlighted and replaced by a all leather interior that Al made for me in a picture below. The exhaust we custom bent is 2 1/2 into Walker Dynomax`s mufflers and 2 1/4 out the back. The color is a rare 1968 optional "OO" Corvette Bronze. Hands aluminum wheels with Goodyear GT Eagles 215-65R-15`s finished it off. It drives like a new Camaro too. The result is one of only one.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
I assure you that big blocks from the factory did not have overheating problems. If you are overheating with basically stock equipment, something is not functioning properly. Just my 2 cents.
i also agree........
The only time my temp gauge moves is sitting in traffic for more then 15 minn without moving on a hot summer day.
Running a factory knock off Dewitts radiator 180 thermo & changed from the factory 5 blade ( non a/c ) fan to a factory 7 blade correct a/c application......... no issues at all !!!
Last year I had a problem with my 69 heat spiking afer driving a while. It had dual electric fans, aluminum radiator, higher flowing water pump, pretty much the works. Couldn't figure it out, I replaced the thermostat a few times thinking it was sticking, without any luck. Wired my fans, key on power rather then switched, still had the problem. I started thinking my problem was either a thermostat that didn't flow well enough or I was getting some sort of air pocket stuck below it not letting the coil on it get hot enough. I pulled the thermostat and drilled three small holes it and reinstalled and filled. I test drove it and it did much, much better, now it was only a small spike to 210 then back to 180 and would stay at 180 after that. Pulled it back out and drilled three more holes in it, problem was solved. Now what actually caused the problem may never be determined(low flowing thermostat or air pocket), but the solution worked. Just something cheap and easy to try before you go into more expensive options.