Trailing Arm Bolt
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 288
Likes: 1
Trailing Arm Bolt
Is there a special way (or a special tool needed) to remove the main long bolt that goes through the frame & the bushings in the eye of the front of the trailing arms on a 1982 Corvette? I've removed everything from my trailing arm assembly (including the front shims), but can't seem to be able to get the front bolt out.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 374
Likes: 12
From: PHILADELPHIA PA
Bolt Is Probably Rusted Inside Bushing. If You Cannot Turn It With A Wrench, Firewrench Is Next. Good Luck !!
CUT BOLT IN THE AREA WHERE THE SHIMS WERE. WILL TAKE 20 SECONDS EACH SIDE AND YOU ARE FINISHED.
CUT BOLT IN THE AREA WHERE THE SHIMS WERE. WILL TAKE 20 SECONDS EACH SIDE AND YOU ARE FINISHED.
Last edited by A88FXRS; Feb 9, 2008 at 02:08 PM. Reason: ADDITIONAL COMMENT
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,339
Likes: 416
From: Seattle Area WA
If the bolt is rusted onto the inner sleeve of the bushing which is typical, the easiest way to remove it is with a sawzal. Get a couple of 8" carbide blades and in less than an hour you'll be done. Search the archives, its the fastest way to do it.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 197
From: Loveland, CO
I assume you are not saying the head of the bolt is facing outward and nut on the inside, and there is not enough space to slide the long bolt out. That means someone installed it backwards on a frameoff job.
Ralph.
Ralph.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Do not use a carbide blade. Get yourself some good bimetal blades. Preferably Lenox blades, seeing I work for Lenox. 8 inch or 9 inch will work. You can even grind off a little of the tip if you need to shorten them up a little. With a good blade and a little cutting fluid you will be through the bolts in a few minutes. 
Carbide tip blades will shatter the carbide with all the bouncing around. A carbide grit blade will work but will take a long time.
Carbide tip blades will shatter the carbide with all the bouncing around. A carbide grit blade will work but will take a long time.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh Pa
ta bolts
If you can get a piece of plate 1 inch or so thick and cut it in an L-shape about 12 by 6 inches. drill a 1/2 inch hole about 1/2 deep in the short end near the end.(the foot of the L) Now you have a tool that you can whack with a sledge. It worked for me and is a lot easier than using a sawzall.The hole goes over the end of the bolt and the other end sticks out past the body so you can whack away and not have to worry about damaging your body . Plus you can get a nice swing. Onece they get moving they come right out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,814
Likes: 414
From: Pittsburgh suburbs Pa.
I have a special tool that I made for my air chisel. I took an old chisel and cut it off blunt on the end, then ground an indentation right in the center of the end so it wouldn't slip off of the end of the bolt. It drives out the most rusted bolts with ease.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
8" bimetal blades on a Sawzall. I couldn't find the Lenox blades in 8" locally, but the ACE hardware had some yellow ones that worked fine. I think they had a DeWalt logo.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Port Clinton Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I used an air hammer. I used a bit that had a flat end. It took about 20 minutes of hammering on one side and about 30 seconds on the other side.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
From: Oldsmar FL
I just took my TA's off my '79 this past week...after taking out the shims, I soaked the area with PB solvent...after a couple of hours I took a punch and drove the bolt as far as I could...I then took a smaller diameter bolt, put it in the hole and used the punch again to knock the bolt out...took about 2-3 minutes on each side...installed my new VBP offset TA's today...
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Oh your killing me here. We actually only make 6,9, and 12 inch blades. That is why I had to grind the pointy end down some.
Any good bimetal blade will do the job. Dewalt is a mid grade blade. Should work fine.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 288
Likes: 1
Seized
The bolt is obviously seized. After using a hammer, the bushings actually came out on one side. The bolt moved out about 1/4", so I'm going to use the bi-metal sawsall blade to cut it out. I'll then replace the polyurethane bushings that are in it. Thanks to all!
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
From: Guantanamo Bay, Cuba (home in Colorado Springs)
I broke off the threaded end on one side when removing my TA's. Removed the whole body, then used a grinder to remove the bolt head. And it still wouldn't knock out! I actually bent a big center punch trying to knock it out!
Ended up drilling the bolt from the outside of the frame, smashing the remaining part of the bolt through the outside hole and finally had enough clearence to pry the TA out.
They rust in place. Use a cutting blade on a grinder to cut through the bushing, then knock the ends out once you get the TA out. Silly design.
Go back with stainless steel parts.
Ended up drilling the bolt from the outside of the frame, smashing the remaining part of the bolt through the outside hole and finally had enough clearence to pry the TA out.
They rust in place. Use a cutting blade on a grinder to cut through the bushing, then knock the ends out once you get the TA out. Silly design.
Go back with stainless steel parts.
