Torc Wrench--Do You Use One? Which One?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
Torc Wrench--Do You Use One? Which One?
I started doing alot of work on my vet and I don't own a torc wrench. How many of you use a torc wrench to put on ALL your nuts and bolts and torc them to the GM specs? When it is important to use a torc wrench and when doesn't it matter? Which torc wrench is the best one to purchase--seems like the ones you set and they slip after reaching the correct torc would be great. This a subjtect I have not seen discussed on the forum. Thanks for all your advice
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
From: Mesa AZ
i've only torqued engine parts and suspension. i have a cheap harbor freight clicker and have done a few engines and all my suspension. the suspension was rechecked with a snap-on clicker torque wrench when i got an alignment and the torques were right on or off by a few pounds. if you can't see yourself spending big money on one then a cheaper one will still be good enough
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I would also recommend the beam-type wrenches. They do not need calibration unless they are damaged. I'd also suggest NOT going to a click-type wrench. They aren't very accurate [unless regularly calibrated] and people often have very bad technique for using them. Dial-type wrenches are good, but, again, they need calibration every year or two. Get two wrenches: one for low torque [in inch-pounds] 0-250 inch-pounds; and one for higher torque [in foot-pounds] 0-150 foot-pounds.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,187
Likes: 4,009
From: Connecticut, USA
For general use the Husky( home depot) clickers are ok. They are 20-200 Ft/lbs in 1/2 drive. I also have an old Craftsman 0-150 ft/lb and a 20-100 ft/lb 3/8 drive. For setting up diff's and boxes, I use a 1/4 drive 0-30 in/lb dial wrench.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Both clickers and beams, foot amd inch lbs. Personally they tell me to go sit down, your the driver. Plus they say I break everything regardless what wrench I use.. Whatever, it`s ok by me:....D
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
I have a 1/2" drive SK dial type 0 to 170 ft.lbs, A Proto 1/2" clicker type 0 to 150 ft. lbs, CDI 0 to 75 inch pounds dial type and a Snap on O to 150 inch pounds dial type. Also a 25+ year old Craftsman 0 to 150 inch pounds beam type and a 25+ year old K-Mart (yes, K-Mart), 0 to 200 Ft. Lbs beam type. Pretty much covers anything I'll ever use a torque wrench and is probably overkill. I don't know how I wound up with so many. The clicker types are easier to use but need to be calibrated periodically to insure accuracy. The dial type stays more accurate over time but not as convenient - you have to be able to see the dial. With the clicker you hear it when you reach the torque setting.
Tightening bolts to the specified torque helps to insure that the fasterer does not become overstressed and fail prematurely, or strip out. Every shop manual I have ever looked at has listings or charts specifying the proper torque values for all the critical engine, chassis and suspension components. Its a good tool to have. I'd recommend you get two; a ft./lb and an inch/lb. The beam type are inexpensive and if you get a "brand" like Craftsman they should be just as accurate as any of the other types.
Tightening bolts to the specified torque helps to insure that the fasterer does not become overstressed and fail prematurely, or strip out. Every shop manual I have ever looked at has listings or charts specifying the proper torque values for all the critical engine, chassis and suspension components. Its a good tool to have. I'd recommend you get two; a ft./lb and an inch/lb. The beam type are inexpensive and if you get a "brand" like Craftsman they should be just as accurate as any of the other types.
