OK, I've been working on getting the parts together for my TKO conversions for a while now. My goal was to get everything I needed at the lowest possible price since I'm working on two cars; a '66 and a '72. Here's a list of the who, what, where, and costs of the parts:

Supplier: AMP Performance, Phoenix AZ

TKO 600 Transmission $1787.00
Mcleod Side Shifter $ 300.00
Mech Speedo Adaptor w/gear $ 94.00
1330 Series QD Yoke $ 149.00
Subtotal $2330.00

Supplier: Keisler Engineering, Rockford TN

Shift Plate $ 15.00
Shift Handle $ 100.00
Reverse Light Pigtail $ 15.00
Shipping $ 12.00
Subtotal $ 142.00

Supplier: Fourth Gear, Inc., Sorrento, FL

C3 (700R4) Crossmember Adaptor $ 105.00
Shipping $ 10.00
Subtotal $ 115.00

Supplier: Local Items

Driveshaft $ 250.00
Trans Mount $ 10.00
Subtotal $ 260.00

Total: $2847.00

Adjustment* $ 150.00

Grand Total: $2997.00

* Adjustment includes price difference from a group purchase for the transmission bought through our local car club and an estimated $50.00 for shipping.

Was it worth the savings? You decide. I probably saved $700 for both cars, which is good, but I spent a bunch of time researching, running around, and ordering parts to get everything I needed. The savings would be even less if one was to buy a single transmission since I received a pretty good discount for a volume purchase made by the car club. In hindsight, I probably would just order a kit from Keisler or somebody. It appears the markup on these kits isn't quite as high as I thought.

Anyway, hopefully this provides someone with information who has gone down the 'path less traveled' like I did.

-Lurkin

 

Which explains why I went automatic for the overdrive, even though my car was a stickshift....3 grand is a fair chunk of change....

the auto conversion can be done for less than 600 bux, using a home built as I did....200 4r unit....

 

It's been a few years since I did mine, but I still remember the cost fairly well:

TKO-500 incl speedo adapter: $1700
Mark Williams QD 1350 yoke: $215
Local shop shortening stock drive shaft, incl balancing and spicer U-joint: $80

I modified the stock welded in X-member and made it removable. Also modified the shifter that came with the TKO to offset it to the left and back.

So that puts the total at ~$2000.

 

Essentially thats where mine ended up...

TKO-500 incl speedo adapter, gear and backup switch: $1600
Pro50 shifter - $150
Local shop shortening stock drive shaft, incl balancing and spicer U-joint: $100
same shop modifiing Lincoln yoke $35
Crossmember mount BTO $90
Modified crossmember for removability $50 (welding)
Leather shift boot $15
Misc...~$100

Call it ~2200 or so

 

That is the only problem I see with the parts listed. The 1330 yoke is large compared to the 1310 series and will create some issue with clearance in the tunnel. At one point, we actually used the 1330 yoke as standard equipment in our kits but after much research and alot of customers asking about the clearance, we went with a 1310 series.
You will find that the driveline is offset towards the passenger side of the tunnel and with the TKO, it is further back in the tunnel. The 1330 yoke is going to be extremely close to the side of the tunnel(if not touching) and you will need to push the tail housing over to center it up in the tunnel. If you can, I would try and switch that yoke out for a 1310 series.



Richard
Tech Support
Keisler Engineering

 

will a 1310 hold 650hp on slicks?

 

Will a 1310 even hold 550hp on 335 street tires?

The 1330 fit in my car without issues. Yes it is CLOSE, you can't stick your finger in there. But not so close that you'd worry about it hitting when the mount flexes. YMMV.

 

I'm glad that I got in on the 1330 drive shaft before you changed it to 1310!

This picture is not from directly below. So it doesn't really show that there is plenty of 1330 clearance on both sides of a 1979 tunnel. The orange is Permatex silicone to keep the bolts from ever backing off

 

The 1310 u-joint is rated for 400 ft/lbs of continuous power, 800 ft/lbs of short duration torque and a breaking point of 1600ft/lbs.
The 1330 is rated for 550 ft/lbs of continuous power, 1000ft/lbs of short duration and a breaking point of 1875ft/lbs. So the 1330 won't take that kind of power either.

You listed 650hp, what is the torque? Horsepower doesn't break u-joints, shock load does. When you hook up, the rear u-joint takes the brunt of the shock load before any is transfered up the shaft.


For what it's worth, the TKO won't take 650hp on drag slicks either, so it is a mute point. The TKO-600 is rated for 600hp and 600ft/lbs continuous power in 4th gear. When you add drag slicks into the equation, all bets are off.


Richard