ImBatman

Well I hav always planned on doing this but with the motor out for some block repair now is the time. I have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer for me.

1. How do I choose pushrods? I have a set of CompCams magnums that are essentially new sense my BB only had about 400 miles on it. I have been told that due to the roller lifters I have to run shorter push rods but I have looked at summit and there is nothing that specifically says for use with roller cams. How do I get the right ones or can I use my magnums.

2. Any brand of roller lifters better than the others? I am probably going with a Lunati cam.

3. Anything else needed other than a cam button and a distributor gear? I already have roller rockers.

Here is my cam choice that was recommended. I wanted to keep something comparable with the size of my current solid cam. The lift is a little greater and the duration is slightly less but not by much. Thoughts on the cam?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...N&autoview=sku

Thanks
Wade

jackson

AFAIK, all retro rollers are 0.300" to 0.500" longer than flat tappets ... AFAIK, you'll need shorter prs.

Look what GM dist gear GM specs for running on virtually all GM cams no matter flat or roller ... look closely GM p/n 10456413 ... it's melonized steel ... it's not bronze ... GM specs this today & has so for several+ years. There's plenty discussion about this ... I dunno "THE" answer ... there may not be a single answer ... but I KNOW you don't always need a bronze gear for a billet steel cam. Check what comes in every GMPP crate w/ a roller cam (all GM rollers I've handled are billet steel & do NOT have a pressed on gear) ... it's p/n 10456413

SteveG75

1. Shorter pushrods are needed. You may need to use a pushrod length checker after you get the heads assembled and order custom length pushrods.

2. Get the roller lifters from the same company as the cam.

3. Use the melonized steel gear referenced above. Works great for me.

4. For the cam button, I like the Cloyes aluminum cover with built in roller cam button. It allows you to set the freeplay with the cover installed. CLO-9-231 at Summit Racing for the big block. $135.95 but worth it.

Here is a pic of the small block version. The center plug removes to set the cam button end play.

gingerbreadman1977

i like that timing cover.. great idea and i wish i had one but too late now after spending an hour shaving down my nylon cam button. also if your running mechanical fuel pump you may need a new fuel pump shaft with the brass end .

63mako

Might need to change valve springs. Solid flat tappet springs would probably be close to the same rating as hydraulic roller but I would check your open and closed spring pressures anyway. As you have found out, better safe than sorry. Check pushrod length with an adjustable pushrod after assembly to get an exact length for your new pushrods.

VIPERBARON

Depending on the year of the engine block, you may need to order up a cam & roller lifter kit refferred to as "retro". It's specifically for older blocks that were not originally designed for roller cams.
Call the tech line at Summit and make sure you get this retro cam kit if you have an older block (pre 84 I think).

ImBatman

Thanks guys! I sent an email to Summit tech last night but have not heard back yet. The cam I chose is a retro fit. I did not think about the fuel pump pushrod. It is a milodon but I will need to check and see if it is compatable. My Edelbrock heads are rated for spring pressures up to .700 lift but I will check that anyway. like you said, "better to be safe.".

I already have a billet timing cover. Would that be ok with a cam button?

thanks
Wade

Eddie 70

Send 427Hotrod a pm. He is running a roller cam and would probably be very knowledgeable about what you are wanting to do with your motor. Last year at the Corvette Forum Cruise in he ran in the nines and drove the car on the street later after the drags.


Also, the next time you get to Applebee's, look for the picture of Jeff Gordon standing with some guy in Rayban's. I would swear that is Jim, if not it is his twin.

zwede

All current Lunati cams have a pressed-on cast iron distributor gear, so no need for a bronze gear. Melonized gear is perfect.

However, no roller cams have cast iron fuel pump eccentrics so you WILL need a bronze tipped pump pushrod. Or go with an electric pump.

As for pushrods you will need shorter ones. I highly recommend you get a pushrod checker and select the optimum length to get a good pattern on the valve stem. There are "retro-fit" pushrods available from comp etc, but there are so many factors involved in determining the correct length that it is always best to measure and order the exact length you need.

Go with the cloys timing cover. It has the cam button built-in and makes adjustment easy.

You also have to make sure your valve springs are strong enough, not just the max lift. Roller lifters, especially hydraulic rollers, are heavy and have fast ramps. Typically you want 150-160 lbs closed, 350-400 lbs open with hydraulic rollers.

GlockGuy

I am in the process of installing my Trick Flow top end kit with roller cam. It came with the cam (Crane) and I found a great deal on the roller lifters on *bay (Comp Cams). Last Sat got the chromoly pushrods, my setup measured out to a 7.3 pushrod which I found locally from a local engine builder. 7.3 seems to be the most common SBC roller cam pushrod size. The Trick Flow heads came with nice guide plates, which youll need, and you will need a hardend pushrod minimum. I am on a budget so I found a really nice heavy duty aluminum timing cover for apx $30. The kit came with the cam button.

ImBatman

Thanks Eddie. I did send Jim a PM but his box is full. Hopefully he will see this thread. I not I will try and send him another one later today.

Thanks
Wade