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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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Whats involved with swapping out a rag joint ? mine is looking a bit "RAGGY" easy ? hard ? any thing special to know ?
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 05:34 PM
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There is not sufficient room to just remove the flexible coupling. You need to either loosen the steering gear on the frame so that it can be tipped (you do not need to disconnect the relay rod.) Or you can disconnect the steering column and pull it back a couple inches into the driver compartment.

Either procedure will gain you that needed additional distance to disconnect the coupling and remove it.

Jim
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Shea
There is not sufficient room to just remove the flexible coupling. You need to either loosen the steering gear on the frame so that it can be tipped (you do not need to disconnect the relay rod.) Or you can disconnect the steering column and pull it back a couple inches into the driver compartment.

Either procedure will gain you that needed additional distance to disconnect the coupling and remove it.

Jim
GREAT THANKS
IS THERE ANYTHING TO LINE UP / MEASURE WHEN REINSTALLING ?
CURIOUS IF THIS WILL THIS TIGHTEN UP THE PLAY A BIT IN THE WHEEL ?
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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Use only the GM rag, the rest are junk. Be sure it's flat when you're done otherwise the column was pushed up while you didn't know it. Do a search here or on DC I had a lot of pictures of correctly installed joints.
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Old Feb 24, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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I replaced mine with an OEM part. Unbolted the steering column and pulled/yanked it forward to gain the necessary clearance. Use something to support the column so it just doesn't hang when you pull it out. I had a big plastic tacklebox that was just the right height to put between the steering wheel and seat to hold it up. Really not a hard job to do. Soak the coupler bolts and shafts with PB Blaster for a day or two before.

If yours is as bad as mine was, you will notice a big difference in your steering. Significantly less slop. Use an OEM part, costs a little more but well worth it. The aftermarket rag joints are suspect. Some are machined with the flat wrong and your steering wheel winds up being upside down. There are some posts about this on this forum.
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Old Feb 25, 2008 | 08:11 AM
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Looking over your driver side fender, this is what things should look like with your steering gear and steering wheel pointing straight ahead.

If the flat on the gear is not at 12 o'clock. Or the pinch bolt on the flange that attaches to the gear input shaft is not pointing straight up at you. If you have a detachable flange on the end of your steering column shaft, the pinch bolt should be pointing at the engine, passing through the 12 o'clock quadrant on the steering column shaft as shown.

BTW, this picture is accurate for any GM steering system (power steering or manual steering) in the 1960s through 1980s.

Jim
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
Use only the GM rag, the rest are junk. Be sure it's flat when you're done otherwise the column was pushed up while you didn't know it. Do a search here or on DC I had a lot of pictures of correctly installed joints.
I went to a local chevrolet dealer & the parts guy said the rag joint is still avail from Gm $80.00 / thought it was a discontinued item. Dont want a made in China POS repro..............
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 427SIXPACK
I went to a local chevrolet dealer & the parts guy said the rag joint is still avail from Gm $80.00 / thought it was a discontinued item. Dont want a made in China POS repro..............

make sure you get the 68 style part if that's the one you need (most likely). of course, it is different.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 05:01 PM
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The 67-e69( rd shafts) are still avail. $80 is a good price on that as it lists over $100 now. Be sure you have the correct box on your car- it should be a rd shaft but it could have been changed. The later boxes have a coarse spine and a flat on the the input. You can't interchange the rags, they won't fit.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
The 67-e69( rd shafts) are still avail. $80 is a good price on that as it lists over $100 now. Be sure you have the correct box on your car- it should be a rd shaft but it could have been changed. The later boxes have a coarse spine and a flat on the the input. You can't interchange the rags, they won't fit.

I WORK FOR CHEVROLET

Just wanted to make certain that when someone said make sure it's NOT aftermarket, that this is infact the correct part & equal to NOS
because there are new GM restoration parts of which some are ok & others that are horrible. Was also told 67-69 are the same
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 427SIXPACK
the rag joint is still avail from Gm $80.00 / thought it was a discontinued item.
I have to buy one this week. I need the 67-e69 one too. What is the GM number?
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Last edited by sperkins; Mar 11, 2008 at 10:40 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 11:58 PM
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7806391 Still available through GM .

Jim
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Shea
7806391 Still available through GM .

Jim
It's showing $66.54 on gmpartsdirect.com...and the "list" is $112.25.

My local chevy dealer always charges list price...they suck.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Shea
7806391 Still available through GM .

Jim
Thanks Jim!
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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I just ordered one from my local dealer. I asked for shop price and it was $81.74. I'll have it tomorrow.
Thanks guys.
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